high clearance tough x-member?

[beakie]

The Full Traction is 3/16" plate steel with the 4 stock mounting points and the 2 unibody

the T&T which is slghtly thinner @ 1/4 but is Reinforced i think well better. with the 6 mounting point they also have the 2 thru uni-body crush sleeve mounts and more internal bracing optional ....

isn't 3/16" thinner than 1/4" ? making the TNT skid thicker, not slightly thinner.

 

[HTeK]

The Full Traction is 3/16" plate steel with the 4 stock mounting points and the 2 unibody

the T&T which is slghtly thinner @ 1/4 but is Reinforced i think well better. with the 6 mounting point they also have the 2 thru uni-body crush sleeve mounts and more internal bracing optional ....[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif][FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif] [/FONT][/FONT]

You have it backwards, 3/16's is thinner than 1/4...

 

[JeepinCoastie]

You have it backwards, 3/16's is thinner than 1/4...

i know what i ment ... lol sorry ...

its like poker, the cards speak....

fixed!

 

[recycledxj]

I had the Rusty's cross member with the 1 inch drop built in. A few trps destroyed that. So I made my own with a peice of 2x4 box tubing and using a skid row trans skid. Holding up so far...

 

[tgoff]

Some modification to your stock cross member could make it look like Currie's as and at the same time you could gain some clearance.

 

[northwestxj]

bend the T&T Belly Pan? HOLY CRAP DID THEY DROP THEIR TRUCK PURELY ON THE SKID ALONE?

Yep, I know of two that have bent it...check out this thread and the pic of a bent TNT pan.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99994&page=2&highlight=tnt+skid

From what was talked about, I dont think that they were too major of impacts...especially from the other guy who bent his (not pictured)...apparently he didn't even know when it happened and there was no major signs of a big impact on it...

 

[Timber]

I'm eventually going to make one modelled after the ZJ one from Kevin's Offroad. Sorry the pic's huge, but I copied it from his site.

 

[mikeNtucson]

I like the look of the tnt bellypan unit. But don't know he i can use it. Lift is installed, and weld work on 44 rear done. Got the rockkrawler 8" long arm with rear coil conversion.................... Ok, compose your self....... What are my choices?

 

[RCP Phx]

I'm eventually going to make one modelled after the ZJ one from Kevin's Offroad. Sorry the pic's huge, but I copied it from his site.

Your kidding!That things a joke!

 

[Timber]

Not kidding, and why?

 

[Goatman]

Not kidding, and why?

Well, for one thing it would be a rock catcher. Imagine sliding down the frame on a rock, it would catch on that thing much more easily than on a stock crossmember. Also, that 2"x2" (that's what it looks like) wouldn't last long under my rig.............at least it doesn't look like it would. I can't imagine tubing that size holding up with most of the weight of the rig sitting on it, like when you get hung up and 2,3 or 4 tires are off the ground.

A good product will slide on rocks and be mega strong.

 

[RCP Phx]

Lets see...stock mounting surface,2x2 tubing,major loss of ground clearance,flat tab for transfer case will fold like a taco,no real transfer case "skid",etc!!!That things just a giant "rock magnet" waiting to grab something and get ripped off!

 

[Timber]

I understand it would catch more than slide like the bellypan styles, but I was actually thinking I would do it with 1/4" 1"x3" box tube and use the idea of an outboard "arm" for the integrated skid.

As far as the mounting surface, that doesn't look stock to me. It looks as though it's been plated; it's on a ZJ, which as far as I recall, that IS a gain in clearance; and lastly, I said I was going to model mine on that--not copy it exactly. I think I should have been clearer in that respect and said "modelled on that idea."

EDIT: Also, I should add that I don't wheel anything nearly as hardcore as you guys do, and I know I don't know as much about this stuff. So. . .maybe I should stick with a modified-stock one like I've seen Goatman post up before. Would it still work to add a skid like the KOR one (with the outrigger-leg-dealy thing) on a modified-stock crossmember?

 

[NCCherokee]

x2...couple of the local guys here have bent them as well. What about the full traction skid. Looks similar to the TNT one, so I'm curious about its strength and clearance but cant find much about it. I emailed them to see if they have any pictures of it installed from the side to look at clearance, but am waiting for a reply. Here is a pic...

Northwest,

Did you ever get anymore information on this bellyskid? I had planned on the TNT bellypan, but since I am going to run the RK longarms, they cover up the 3rd mounting hole for the belly pan, so it looks like this may be my next best option. any idea how much it costs?

I know the picture makes it look like it only bolts in the two stock places, and 2 more for the skid portion. It looks like you could use a piece of plate on the inside of the rail to reinforce the skidplate portion with thru-frame bolts. Also, I'm not certain, but there are two holes on each side, just medial to the stock mounting holes. Are those possibly for bolting up and L-bracket and then thru-frame bolts like the TNT does? if not, I bet you could make it work. I hope I cant get my hands on one of these!

Kenny

 

[Timber]

That vertical piece IS on the inside of the rail. You might need a plate on the outside, though.

 

[NCCherokee]

That vertical piece IS on the inside of the rail. You might need a plate on the outside, though.

I understand that the vertical piece for the TC-skid portion is inside the framerail. I'm referring the the actual crossmember part. There are 4 holes on each side. 2 of them presumably are for the stock crossmember bolt locations. the other two (inboard of the stock mounts), look like they could be used with an L-bracket, and a plate on the outside, to add 2 more thru-frame mounts on each side.

 

[Timber]

Gotcha.

 

[northwestxj]

I understand that the vertical piece for the TC-skid portion is inside the framerail. I'm referring the the actual crossmember part. There are 4 holes on each side. 2 of them presumably are for the stock crossmember bolt locations. the other two (inboard of the stock mounts), look like they could be used with an L-bracket, and a plate on the outside, to add 2 more thru-frame mounts on each side.

X2...was wondering the same thing on the two inside bolts...seems as though it would be easy (depending on how it mounts) to add an "L" bracket and some sleeves to tie it in better to the rails...maybe thats what it does, not sure?

But no, they never emailed me back...I haven't ever had very good luck with them...I may try to give them a call tomorrow.

Skid is a little over $300...
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=FTS-720646

Not really sure if its worth it, when the TNT one "appears" to be better. I had just heard of the TNT bending, thats why I was looking into this one.

 

[NCCherokee]

X2...was wondering the same thing on the two inside bolts...seems as though it would be easy (depending on how it mounts) to add an "L" bracket and some sleeves to tie it in better to the rails...maybe thats what it does, not sure?

But no, they never emailed me back...I haven't ever had very good luck with them...I may try to give them a call tomorrow.

Skid is a little over $300...
http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=FTS-720646

Not really sure if its worth it, when the TNT one "appears" to be better. I had just heard of the TNT bending, thats why I was looking into this one.

I though for a while about this one. I was leaning towards the Full traction crossmember because with rock krawler brackets, I wont be able to use the forward unibody mount on the TNT bellypan, eliminating it as a choice. However, after looking at the full-traction, the best price I could get was for $314 shipped (from northridge).

You can get the TNT bellypan for about $280-290 shipped, saving you a little cash. In addition, you get a thicker skidplate. If people are bending the TNT bellypan that is 1/4" thick, I can imagine they could bend the FT even easier since it is only 3/16" thick. The internal bracing on the TNT pan is an extra $90, but I think you can just as easily make those yourself for about $20 and some time (which you would have to do with the FT anyways).

Now, since the TNT bellypan wont work with the rock krawler brackets, I'm thinking you are still coming out ahead if you go with TNT, and cut the front 2-3" off of it (or however much is necessary to prevent interference with the RK brackets). You would still have the same number of mounting points, it would be thicker, and cheaper, than the full-traction skid. essentially, it would be the full-traction skid, just stronger and cheaper. I think this is the route I'll be going.