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help with a '90 renix...

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NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
here's the deal, a couple days ago the jeep start sputtering and bucking on the way home from a client's site. It's hard to start, sounds like the timing is off (or fuel starved), once it "catches" it's fine until i get it moving then it starts surging - bucking - stalling again. It's a 1990 4.0 manual 4wd w/AC. about 135000. Cap/rotor/wires/plugs were done ~12k ago. I'm thinking either fuel delivery or crank sensor. As I don't have much time or $$$ to toss at this I thought I'd ask for advice here first.


-r0
 
RENIX Crank Sesors typically fail somewhere around 150-180Kmiles, but you may have a short-lifer. I'd change that first, since it can cause symptoms you describe when it's on its way out (I've dealt with a few myself.)

OEMR is up around fifty bucks, I think. If you've got the time, you can get them via mail-order a bit cheaper (I usually go through www.morris4x4center.com.) Do not get a crank sensor for a 1991-up - it won't work.
 
I would check a lot of simple, zero cost items first. Ones that you did not mention checking in your post.

Check all the battery and ground connections. Inspect the cap and rotor for any damage or near physical failure. Excessive, play in the distributor shaft. Check the high voltage wires in the dark for leaks to ground. And check for any loose vacuum lines, or damaged wires. I would spend a few hours going over it and checking these and the electrical conectors before I tackled replacing the crank sensor as a maybe it's this or that part. Especially if you are short on funds.

That said, 5-90 is probably right, but there are other possible causes, especially in the high volatge areas like oil suddenly leaking into the rotor area under the cap. That is one where you can see the problem visually before buying any parts and going the trial and error method.

5-90? Has anyone ever miss diagnosed a bad ground as a bad or failing crank sensor? Since the crank sensor is such a low current, low voltage device, I can't help but think a lot of marginal or just weak CPS sensors get replaced due to poor grounds? This question, thought, is based on my recent self re-education as to the detrimental effects of few ohms here and there of resistance in a very low volatge computer control system like Renix. I am thinking a 20 to 30 ohm wiring system loss (added resistance) could be just enough to make a CPS look bad?

What thinks Ye?
 
I had similar symptoms and it was the fuel filter. . . too many trips to mexico. Switched it out and it ran great.
 
Ecomike said:
I would check a lot of simple, zero cost items first. Ones that you did not mention checking in your post.

Check all the battery and ground connections. Inspect the cap and rotor for any damage or near physical failure. Excessive, play in the distributor shaft. Check the high voltage wires in the dark for leaks to ground. And check for any loose vacuum lines, or damaged wires. I would spend a few hours going over it and checking these and the electrical conectors before I tackled replacing the crank sensor as a maybe it's this or that part. Especially if you are short on funds.

That said, 5-90 is probably right, but there are other possible causes, especially in the high volatge areas like oil suddenly leaking into the rotor area under the cap. That is one where you can see the problem visually before buying any parts and going the trial and error method.

5-90? Has anyone ever miss diagnosed a bad ground as a bad or failing crank sensor? Since the crank sensor is such a low current, low voltage device, I can't help but think a lot of marginal or just weak CPS sensors get replaced due to poor grounds? This question, thought, is based on my recent self re-education as to the detrimental effects of few ohms here and there of resistance in a very low volatge computer control system like Renix. I am thinking a 20 to 30 ohm wiring system loss (added resistance) could be just enough to make a CPS look bad?

What thinks Ye?

Entirely possible - I'll admit that I tend to not think about simple things like grounds - since I do annual inspections of stuff like that anyhow (and that's just me. I got used to doing DoT and CALDoT inspections on customer's rigs a couple jobs ago, and I've always given my rigs a fairly detailed annual once-over anyhow...)

Pay particular attention to the ground strap on the firewall from the cylinder head stud - that's known as the "RENIX Killer" - since it's the main ground to the chassis (which grounds through the engine block, and thence to the battery. ChryCo did one small thing right - they added a direct ground from the battery to the chassis sheetmetal in 1991.) Remove the screw, wire brush a small area down to bare metal, and clean the lug. Reattach.

If the ground strap is badly discoloured (it's an open braid, and it picks up crud,) replace it outright. Treat as above.
 
I can practically guarantee its not the block strap. I replaced that last fall, as well as added a strap from the battery groung to the inside fender panel. While I was in there I also vamped the grounds to the tps and air-bypass stepper and screwed them to the block. All the attachment points were sanded and prepped with red oil deoxidizer, so I don't think it's a block strap or TB ground issue but i'll break out the DMM and recheck the harness loss. I'll also inspect the ignition lines tonight. Thanks all for ideas.

<EDIT> ps. the fuel filter is about a year old it was replaced with the cap/wires/etc.
 
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5-90 gets the kudos on this one... One of the wires from the CSS (Crank Speed Sensor according to borg-warner) to the harness connector is freyed enough to ground out to the intake.

Thanks All for the help. I'll wrench on it tomorrow and post results.
 
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