xjbrian
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- California
I did the headlight wire harness upgrade using 12ga wire for everything except the wires that pull in the relays. I used socket connectors to plug the lights and relays in. The problem with that was the pigtail wires that came attached to the female flag disconnects in the socket connectors were 16ga or 18ga. I couldn't live with the small gauge so I took all the disconnects out. I then used an ice pick to open up the wire crimps. Next I soldered 12 ga wire into each of the disconnects and reinserted the disconnects in to the sockets. The wires were cut long enough that they would reach where they needed to go without adding an extra splice to reach where they needed to go. I redrew the schematic that most people seem to be using showing the splices in the circuit.
I used 6 ga splices from Pep Boys. They are uninsulated, so I covered them with two layers of shrink tube and then covered them with convoluted tubing from Walmart. To crimp them I put them in a vise and cranked it down. I laid a nail shaft down perpendicular to the splice before I cranked it down and this seemed to give me a better crimp.
To route the wires from the left headlight to the right side all you have to do is remove the four screws that hold the grill in then you can zip tie the new harness to the old harness that is already there.
I attached the in-line fuse at the alternator to keep it away from the corrosion that is always around battery terminals.
I mounted the relays next to the fuse box under the hood. Everything tucked away really nice using the convoluted tubing.
I plugged one headlight into the old harness and one headlight into the new harness. Then I turned on the head lights and measured the voltages. With an engine running battery voltage of 13.75V I measured 13.67V using the new harness and 11.78V using the old harness. That is quite an improvement. Here are some comparison pictures of my results.
The left headlight is the old harness and the right headlight is the new harness.
It made a big difference but I want more. So I put Silverstar lights in. This also made a big difference. My son doesn't complain he can't see at night anymore.
In these pictures the left bulb is the Silverstar. I used a better camera for these pictures. It really has made a huge difference.
This last picture is with two Silverstars.
I used 6 ga splices from Pep Boys. They are uninsulated, so I covered them with two layers of shrink tube and then covered them with convoluted tubing from Walmart. To crimp them I put them in a vise and cranked it down. I laid a nail shaft down perpendicular to the splice before I cranked it down and this seemed to give me a better crimp.
To route the wires from the left headlight to the right side all you have to do is remove the four screws that hold the grill in then you can zip tie the new harness to the old harness that is already there.
I attached the in-line fuse at the alternator to keep it away from the corrosion that is always around battery terminals.
I mounted the relays next to the fuse box under the hood. Everything tucked away really nice using the convoluted tubing.
I plugged one headlight into the old harness and one headlight into the new harness. Then I turned on the head lights and measured the voltages. With an engine running battery voltage of 13.75V I measured 13.67V using the new harness and 11.78V using the old harness. That is quite an improvement. Here are some comparison pictures of my results.
The left headlight is the old harness and the right headlight is the new harness.
It made a big difference but I want more. So I put Silverstar lights in. This also made a big difference. My son doesn't complain he can't see at night anymore.
In these pictures the left bulb is the Silverstar. I used a better camera for these pictures. It really has made a huge difference.
This last picture is with two Silverstars.
