• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Headers, Coatings/Wrap, and Heat Soak

GraniteCow

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
I’m trying to reduce under hood temps for my ‘94 stroker and am considering buying a header and having it ceramic coated by Jet Hot. For the price of the coating, I want to make sure I get a header that won’t crack. I was leaning towards the Banks Torque Tube revolver style header, but I’m reading that even it has cracking issues. Is there a header for our engines that’s worth coating and won’t crack? Should I just stick with my generic manifold with expansion joints, wrap it, and plan on replacing it every few years when it rots out?
 
Ballpark figure on how much it would cost to get one coated?

The Gibson GP400S-C is ceramic coated from the factory, but at ~$600, it ain't cheap. I'm generally happy with the one on my 94 XJ. The outlet is in a slightly different position; one Walker x-over pipe had to be cut, tweaked and welded to move the O2 sensor away from the pan while another Walker and a mandrel bent Northeastern Exhaust x-over pipe fit fine. No input on performance gains; I made too many changes all at once.
 
Also, add in Doug Thorley as a Ceramic coated header. Yes, not cheap. I remember $500-$600. Yes, I run one. I did have a set of header Jet Coated. I previously had them wrapped. Wrapping will cause rusting. I felt about the same heat 'suppression' between wrap vs ceramic coating in that vehicle. Maybe a bit better with the wrap.
 
Some companies like my Banks header void the warranty if you use wrap!
 
Coating is $483 shipped for their offroad coating, which is a step up from their regular coating. It ain’t cheap, hence why I’ll be ptfo off if it cracks.

How’s the Gibson in terms of longevity? I’m reading mixed reviews. Maybe poly motor mounts are a must?
 
Ceramic coating doubles the cost of the header. Simple reality of the process of ceramic coating.

Header wrap should void a header warranty. It creates an oven for the tubing. Too much heat build up inside there.

If you are concerned about cracking, start with substantial upgrades to your motor and trans mounts. SFR, Brown Dog... there are more options.
 
Ceramic coating doubles the cost of the header. Simple reality of the process of ceramic coating.

Header wrap should void a header warranty. It creates an oven for the tubing. Too much heat build up inside there.

If you are concerned about cracking, start with substantial upgrades to your motor and trans mounts. SFR, Brown Dog... there are more options.

How likely is it to not crack another header though? My #1 problem that I’m addressing is heat. The cheap solution is to wrap a no-name header and replace it every few years when it rusts out. Ideally I would just install a coated header and never touch it again, but I’m reading in a few places that even some $600 headers have cracking problems, which defeats the point. If it won’t last, I might as well go cheap. I don’t expect greatebayseller100904 in Beijing to warranty a $60 header, wrap or no wrap.

Is a $600 coated header like the Gibson/Doug Thorley or a coated Banks (like 1k otd) worth it?
 
My Banks has gone almost 4yrs with no cracking, yet!
 
How bad are your underhood temps? As you don’t have the precats like the 00/01 are you having heat soak issues?
 
How bad are your underhood temps? As you don’t have the precats like the 00/01 are you having heat soak issues?

I am, but then again I stroked/bored an engine that’s already known to run hot/lean. Sometimes it’ll even bog down after hard driving (sustained hill climbs) and won’t start again for a bit. Sometimes the manifold glows it gets so hot. It’s melted wires before. I think the problem is the oem setup was never designed to handle this much displacement and heat. The more heat I can get out of the engine bay the better.
 
It sounds like you have a AFR issue!
 
It sounds like you have a AFR issue!

I installed a second O2 sensor and gauge to monitor it. It runs lean, but no leaner than what I’ve read is normal. It’s around 14:1 at idle, gets richer under acceleration. Passes smog with flying colors. I replaced every sensor with an OEM one except the crank sensor, that’s next on my list. 24lb injectors, Hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator, not sure what else I can do.
 
I've had the Gibson on mine for around about 6 years now. The engine mounts looked fairly new so I didn't change them out; engine has been replaced at some point prior to me buying it with 195k for $700. I've replaced the trans mount with an OEM replacement since I was in there anyway swapping out to a NP242 and it's cheap. I put frame stiffeners on the rear while replacing the leaf spring mounts, front and rear (I hate hidden nuts), and a hitch on the rear but otherwise no additional support to resist twist. Just added a front hitch this fall, huge difference, but off topic...

I'll be the first to admit, if my 94 XJ is in the rocks or mud, it probably has already been a bad day or will be shortly; that's what my 88 XJ is for... I built my 94 for two purposes: Snow and pulling a 2500# boat. Stiff springs, stiff shocks, stiffest OEM sway bar in front and aftermarket in back, no disconnects, definitely not set up for offroading, it's purely set up to tow. I'm not easy on it however; 2,500 lbs on the hook, FT 4wd, pretty much just put the peddle to the floor most of the time... Coming off the boat launch, 2500# 24ft pontoon boat in the drink, FT 4wd, let er rip... ​The driveway up to the "cabin", in particular, is why I built an XJ; straight up the side of a PA "mountain", 180° switchback, runoff crossing over the lane. My buddies 2wd 1500 can't do it, a 4wd full size does it but you can feel the driveline binding; just put the NP242 in FT at the beginning of the weekend and on a few occasions not notice it until after the 2 hr drive home. There's also another PA "mountain" in between, so 4 full-power jaunts per trip, twice a weekend, all summer long. I'm not a timid driver either, with or without something in tow; I built a XJ to whip around in, with or without a load in tow, not lumber around like a whale. Between that abuse and blasting through the monster puddles that form around here after downpours, no issues yet. Knock on wood.
 
I installed a second O2 sensor and gauge to monitor it. It runs lean, but no leaner than what I’ve read is normal. It’s around 14:1 at idle, gets richer under acceleration. Passes smog with flying colors. I replaced every sensor with an OEM one except the crank sensor, that’s next on my list. 24lb injectors, Hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator, not sure what else I can do.

What are the build specs on the motor?
 
What are the build specs on the motor?

Short rods, dished pistons, ~9.4 CR, block decked .030, rebuilt head, Crane truck cam, 2000 intake manifold, 24lb injectors, hesco adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I’m thinking of swapping out the block and rods/pistons for forged long rods and stroker pistons seeing as the d***head machinist messed up and gouged the top of a piston (this was years ago, don’t ask). I don’t think that’s what’s causing the issue, but it’ll make me feel better when I’m alone in the middle of nowhere.

When it’s running well it rips. I can do wheelies in 2nd gear no problem. It’s just always had these intermittent issues that come and go randomly. The exhaust is always super hot though.
 
"Truck cam" means nothing, what are the specs? At my shop I used to have a "bargain bin" so I put a 3/4 race cam in there for cheap. I can't tell how many times I sold it, before the customer got out the door I would ask them to check how many lobes where on that cam, "3/4"!
 
"Truck cam" means nothing, what are the specs? At my shop I used to have a "bargain bin" so I put a 3/4 race cam in there for cheap. I can't tell how many times I sold it, before the customer got out the door I would ask them to check how many lobes where on that cam, "3/4"!

This thing was built 12 years ago and has been parked for most of that, but I’m pretty sure it’s Crane H-260-2, made for stock efi. Specs are here, second from the top: https://i.imgur.com/mg1rTfF.png
mg1rTfF.png
 
Back
Top