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Hack and Tap Options

like ivan said, the head of the bolt may be the only thing off center, even then its only part of the bolt head. and with it being so close to the center of the rotating mass, i doubt it will cause any long term harm of any kind.
 
Ben, I understand how it works. But that bolt is like a wheel weight; it has mass and would be eccentrically spinning. I'm not suggesting getting the bolt off center would put the yoke off center....come on.:looney:

Haha gotcha. It didn't even cross my mind that is what you meant because the head of the bolt is so insignificant compared to all of the other rotating mass you have going on with the tcase and driveshaft. Sorry if I sounded like a dick, didn't mean to.

Ben
 
how does the front shaft go for length when used in the rear, i have 4 inch lift and a 8.25

does it have to be lengthened or is there enough movement between the two halves

my understanding is that once the hack and tap is done the diff yoke has to be pointed at the out put shaft using wedges, is this correct??
 
how does the front shaft go for length when used in the rear, i have 4 inch lift and a 8.25

does it have to be lengthened or is there enough movement between the two halves

my understanding is that once the hack and tap is done the diff yoke has to be pointed at the out put shaft using wedges, is this correct??

I have an NP242, 8.25, and a 4inch lift. I used an RE H&T and a front shaft with adapter flange and it fits perfect.

And yes, you'll need shims to correct the pinion angle, about 1-2 degrees below the output. I used ether 4 or 6 degree shims, can't remember which.
 
does anyone know what the measurement is on the dirtbound hnt kit is? i got my kit and my driveshaft, sadly i did not get instructions and i want to make absolutely sure before i cut it off. i have a 99 np231. i lknow how to do it i just not sure on measurement. thanks
 
does anyone know what the measurement is on the dirt bound hnt kit is?

Every Jeep is different.

The IRO instructions are OK - http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/hack and Tap Install.pdf.

1996-2001, I would make sure to leave extra length (3/4") on the T-Case output shaft, test fit the drive shaft, and trim the output more if needed.

If you have an older XJ and need to use the Seal Flange and seal for your H&T, the new yoke should bottom out on the output shaft splines and at the newly tapped bolt hole at the same time. See these - http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm - http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/RE1801-RE1802.pdf
 
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Google for the H&T instructions.

IRO has them on their website and RE (RE1801) has them in PDF format.


1996-2001 you should leave about (3/4") extra on the splines and test fit the yoke and drive shaft. Trim the splines if needed.

1995 and older, that use the Seal Flange and new seal, you should make sure the cut and tapped end of the output shaft bottoms out in the yoke (at the bolt hole) at the same time the other end of the yoke bottoms out where the splines stop.
 
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I originally went with IRO's H-n-T and driveshaft. The H-n-T itself is really easy to do. Just be sure they send you the right length DS befor you start cutting. I ran into this problem with them and when they sent me the right DS. I had to take it to a DS shop to have it balanced. IRO DS are USED and referbished to an extent. Just a heads up. I still have my DS from them but upgraded to a SYE in the end. I personally would save the $ on a H-n-T and go straight to at SYE. JMO
 
So there was no reason to be intimidated it was easy..
I did get the h.n.t. A lil' crooked but It makes no difference..

It works great ...

the only negative I've had was the local 4wd specialty shop seemed baffled by it and said theyld never seen it done quite like that.. And tried to pressure me into a full h.d. By saying they deemed it unsafe..

of course once I informed them that even if I did switch I would be doing the install.. They were less concerned ( no $ to make)...
 
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