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Got my d44/60 combo today!
- Thread starter rcmf5525
- Start date
- Location
- Mobile, AL
OK, I think I have my part list down. (Im on a 24 hour shift with nothing to do but surf the internet).
Dana 44
4.88 gears/rebuild kit
spool
760x ujoints
1310 yoke/ubolts
axle seals
tnt d44 install kit
tnt knuckle over steering
oem calipers/pads
Dana 60
4.88 gears/rebuild kit
detroit or spool
1310 yoke/ubolts
axle seals
leaf perches
disc conversion
Other
'77 Grand Marquise master cylinder
Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve
break lines/hardware
TSL 35x11 16
Copperhead weld on beadlocks
Axle parts with detroit: $1410
with spool: $1080
ballpark total with detroit in rear: $3800
with spool: $3500
I should be able to have around $3500 to spend on this so I might have to go with a spool in the rear. Dont really want to, but I guess you do what you can when you can. I am going to order most of the parts from one company and hopefully they will give me some kind of discount with an order this large. The one thing that is driving up the cost of the build is the TnT parts. The D44 install kit and knuckle over kit is going to be about $800. If I had a long arm lift, I would go with a 3 link and do away with the install kit, but I have the RE drop bracket kit and dont think it would work right.
I might end up building my own knuckle over kit and same some coin there as well.
If anyone has any tips or suggestions, please send them...
Dana 44
4.88 gears/rebuild kit
spool
760x ujoints
1310 yoke/ubolts
axle seals
tnt d44 install kit
tnt knuckle over steering
oem calipers/pads
Dana 60
4.88 gears/rebuild kit
detroit or spool
1310 yoke/ubolts
axle seals
leaf perches
disc conversion
Other
'77 Grand Marquise master cylinder
Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve
break lines/hardware
TSL 35x11 16
Copperhead weld on beadlocks
Axle parts with detroit: $1410
with spool: $1080
ballpark total with detroit in rear: $3800
with spool: $3500
I should be able to have around $3500 to spend on this so I might have to go with a spool in the rear. Dont really want to, but I guess you do what you can when you can. I am going to order most of the parts from one company and hopefully they will give me some kind of discount with an order this large. The one thing that is driving up the cost of the build is the TnT parts. The D44 install kit and knuckle over kit is going to be about $800. If I had a long arm lift, I would go with a 3 link and do away with the install kit, but I have the RE drop bracket kit and dont think it would work right.
I might end up building my own knuckle over kit and same some coin there as well.
If anyone has any tips or suggestions, please send them...
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Got the axles torn down! I actually got a full day to work on them. The most annoying thing was the steering arm on the driver’s side outer knuckle. I tried everything and had to resort to cutoff wheel, reciprocating saw, and a BFH (the shop I am working at does not have a plasma cutter). It came off though. Are the studs threaded into the arm as well as the knuckle? There was no way to turn the studs anyway, just wondering. 30+ years of rust is hell. Everything looks good. I removed the ball joints just because I wanted to replace them. One caliper is new, but the other needs to be replaced. I actually found one locally for $39. Not bad for dual piston 1 ton calipers. The stock gears and carrier looks great. I cannot believe they are stock. I am going with 4.88s and spools, so I put the stock stuff up for sale on EBay. I did not list here because I figured anyone with this swap in mind would want lower gears than 4.10. The only thing that is pissing me off is that one of the locking hubs is broken. The plastic piece inside that has the pin through it is cracked in half. It still works, but I guess that gives me a good reason to upgrade to Warn. I have not cleaned the tubes yet. That might be spread out through the week. I will take some pics tomorrow and post them.
Got the TNT truss and over knuckle steering ordered. Bob (I think that is his name) @ TNT took my measurements and compared them to an axle in his shop and said that all will mount up just right. I was worried about the stock leaf perch being cast into the center section. He said the only hurdle is I will have to remove a 1" section of the cast 'sleeve' on the drivers side of the center section to be able to mount the lower control arm bracket. That should not be too bad. I had enough practice today with the cut off wheel.
I also ordered all the internal axle parts. Gears, spools, all bearings, seals, yokes, and ujoints. It set me back a little over a grand. Not too bad. I will post a total part cost when I am done. I do not want to do the running tally I think it gets annoying.
Got the TNT truss and over knuckle steering ordered. Bob (I think that is his name) @ TNT took my measurements and compared them to an axle in his shop and said that all will mount up just right. I was worried about the stock leaf perch being cast into the center section. He said the only hurdle is I will have to remove a 1" section of the cast 'sleeve' on the drivers side of the center section to be able to mount the lower control arm bracket. That should not be too bad. I had enough practice today with the cut off wheel.
I also ordered all the internal axle parts. Gears, spools, all bearings, seals, yokes, and ujoints. It set me back a little over a grand. Not too bad. I will post a total part cost when I am done. I do not want to do the running tally I think it gets annoying.
ZacSquatch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fairbanks, AK
You sure you want to use 1310's wouldnt that be backtracking with the 60? Why not use 1330 or bigger? use conversion u-joints for the driveshafts..
- Location
- Mobile, AL
ZacSquatch said:
If I use a conversion Ujoint, it will still have two sides that are the same as a 1310 right?
- Location
- Mobile, AL
What is the best way to remove the inner Cs to turn them? The shop does not have a plasma cutter. Am I just SOL?
ZacSquatch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fairbanks, AK
rcmf5525 said:
yeah, but you mentioned buying at 1310 yoke for the 60, just buying the conversion u-joint will be cheaper... the front 44 should already be 1310... I would personaly keep the u-joint the wink link, they are much cheaper to replace.. the conversion ones are $16 or so..
- Location
- Mobile, AL
I just wanted to replace the yokes anyway. The one in the 44 had two of the u bolts broken off in it. It wouldnt have been hard to remove them, but I just wanted to have new ones.
ZacSquatch
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Fairbanks, AK
Well, there ya go then.. As long as you got a system, lol.
Sierra Drifter
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- San Ramon Ca
Last year I swapped a 78 D44 and a 79 D60 from Ford F250 donors into my XJ. Mine appear to be exactly like the axles you have. You could have the passenger knuckle drilled and tapped, buy high steer arms, and order custom fit draglink and tie rod for less than the kit you are planning to buy. Also, I did not bother turning the inner C's. The high pinion D44 from the F250 is pretty close to start with and I didn't feel it was worth the effort. I have no vibes, no wooble, and no bumpsteer. I can drive 75 on the freeway with no issues. The brakes are not the greatest, pedal is a little low. I'm piecing together a hydroboost setup right now. There are some issues with the F250 D44, particularly the cast in leaf spring mount and the 1330 yoke. The D60 won't hadle 35 spline shafts without boring the spindles, which you can do yourself. Also, my D60 had a non-standard pinion Yoke wich required a special ujoint. I did a detailed write up, showing every step with about 120 pics, if you're interested. Link is in my sig.
Good luck.
edit..... I just noticed you said the d44 was low pinion... so I guess your axles are not the same, I didn't know Ford ever used a low pinion D44.... oh well.
Good luck.
edit..... I just noticed you said the d44 was low pinion... so I guess your axles are not the same, I didn't know Ford ever used a low pinion D44.... oh well.
Last edited:
Mopar It
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- windsor nor-cal
lol you know why that steering arm was so hard? under each nut there is a cone facing like \__/ and the stud comes up through it so if u try n pull it off, it tightens cause the cone, u have to bang it downward with hella wd-40 and try and jam the cones out. one at a time. its a beezy.
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Well, that explains it! The more I beat on it, the tighter it got. Its off now so whatever...
- Location
- Mobile, AL
I am going to use an old school arch welder to weld up the truss and other stuff to the axle tubes. The shop that I am working at only has one type of rod (E6011 3/32"). Im not too smart when it comes to welding (got a buddy that is going to help me out with it), are those right for the type/thickness of the metals? If not, which ones should I purchase? Why? Just trying to get smarter...
:gee:
:gee:
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Bump? Any welders out there???
- Location
- Mobile, AL
About to order some spring perches and these are the options...
2.75"diameter X 2.5"wide
3.0" diameter X 2.5" wide
3.5" diameter X 2.5" wide
3.0" diameter X 2.75" wide
3.5" diameter X 2.75" wide
Im guessing the 2nd one is the right choice for the D60. Just making sure...
2.75"diameter X 2.5"wide
3.0" diameter X 2.5" wide
3.5" diameter X 2.5" wide
3.0" diameter X 2.75" wide
3.5" diameter X 2.75" wide
Im guessing the 2nd one is the right choice for the D60. Just making sure...
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Still waiting on my TnT truss and Knuckle over steering to come in. Not their fault though. TnT has been awesome to work with...
I am knee deep in gear install. The D60 went together like a charm. The first paint attempt was dead on. Cant get much easier than that. The only issue I have now, with the 60, is that with the spool, the ring gear bolts that came with the master rebuild kit are too long. I think the mounting surface on the spool is thinner than a conventional carrier. Really sucks. I contacted Complete Offroad today and have not had a response yet. Anyone else have the same issue with any spool?
The D44 gear install has gone smooth as well. I did not have the problem with the 44's spool. The provided bolts were just the right size. Dont know WTF is up with the 60. I got the pinion preload, carrier preload, and backlash all set. When I painted the teeth the pinion is not deep enough. I stopped there for the night and will tear it all apart tomorrow and adjust the inner and outer pinion shim for desired depth.
I now see why shops charge so much for gear set up. Its not hard, just time consuming and tedious.
I got the D60 disc conversion in that I ordered from Ebay. The kit looks awesome and very complete. Calipers, rotors, bracketry, pads, lines, and all mounting hardware for a little more than $300 to my door. Not too bad...
If I get the truss and steering in this week, I should be able to mount the axles up this weekend. I will post some pics...
I am knee deep in gear install. The D60 went together like a charm. The first paint attempt was dead on. Cant get much easier than that. The only issue I have now, with the 60, is that with the spool, the ring gear bolts that came with the master rebuild kit are too long. I think the mounting surface on the spool is thinner than a conventional carrier. Really sucks. I contacted Complete Offroad today and have not had a response yet. Anyone else have the same issue with any spool?
The D44 gear install has gone smooth as well. I did not have the problem with the 44's spool. The provided bolts were just the right size. Dont know WTF is up with the 60. I got the pinion preload, carrier preload, and backlash all set. When I painted the teeth the pinion is not deep enough. I stopped there for the night and will tear it all apart tomorrow and adjust the inner and outer pinion shim for desired depth.
I now see why shops charge so much for gear set up. Its not hard, just time consuming and tedious.
I got the D60 disc conversion in that I ordered from Ebay. The kit looks awesome and very complete. Calipers, rotors, bracketry, pads, lines, and all mounting hardware for a little more than $300 to my door. Not too bad...
If I get the truss and steering in this week, I should be able to mount the axles up this weekend. I will post some pics...
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Got a reply from Complete Off Road. Mike said that the bolts that come in the master rebuild kit are the only ones they carry, and he has never heard of that problem before. He said he will contact Yukon about the issue and get back with me. I will post an update as soon as I get it...
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Got something thats driving me crazy! Where can I find a new junction block for the rear brakes? I have searched and searched and cant find a parts store any where online that sells them.
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Im stupid! I comes attached to the break line...
:dunce:
:dunce:
- Location
- Mobile, AL
Yukon's response:
""Requires 1/2" grade 8 lock washers for ring gear bolts"
Great, so I spend 1k for the new gear setup and have to go buy washers to make it work. Maybe I am over reacting, but I am a little pissed off. That doesnt sound like the right answer to me...I guess it is my best option at this point.
Do any of you think that me asking Complete Offroad for 10 new ring gear bolts to replace the ones that have messed up threads is out of bounds? They should be replaced for free, right?
""Requires 1/2" grade 8 lock washers for ring gear bolts"
Great, so I spend 1k for the new gear setup and have to go buy washers to make it work. Maybe I am over reacting, but I am a little pissed off. That doesnt sound like the right answer to me...I guess it is my best option at this point.
Do any of you think that me asking Complete Offroad for 10 new ring gear bolts to replace the ones that have messed up threads is out of bounds? They should be replaced for free, right?
