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Good, quality brake rotor replacements?

I've always said buy the cheapest rotors and the best pads you can afford. Right now I'm on cheap rotors and mid grade pads but probably changing that soon.

Almost all the rotors come from basically the same place now.

Also - rotors don't warp. What you perceive as warping is generally pad transfer from overheating the brakes with a few hard stops or by riding the brakes on a downhill, then stopping with the brakes engaged while they cool down. It changes the metallurgical structure of the rotor and makes the (effectively heat treated) section wear differently than the rest, which leads to uneven rotor thickness and a pulsating feeling. That's why typically turning them down again won't really help, because by the time you turn down enough to get past the changed metal, you're well past the point where it's not safe or legal to run the rotor anymore.

Cheap rotors, good pads, bed them in properly, and don't overheat the brakes then brake hold if at all possible. Unless it's absolutely avoidable, I always keep the vehicle moving (at least slowly) and avoid engaging the brakes for a short while after the brakes heat up significantly.
 
I've always said buy the cheapest rotors and the best pads you can afford. Right now I'm on cheap rotors and mid grade pads but probably changing that soon.

Almost all the rotors come from basically the same place now.

Also - rotors don't warp. What you perceive as warping is generally pad transfer from overheating the brakes with a few hard stops or by riding the brakes on a downhill, then stopping with the brakes engaged while they cool down. It changes the metallurgical structure of the rotor and makes the (effectively heat treated) section wear differently than the rest, which leads to uneven rotor thickness and a pulsating feeling. That's why typically turning them down again won't really help, because by the time you turn down enough to get past the changed metal, you're well past the point where it's not safe or legal to run the rotor anymore.

Cheap rotors, good pads, bed them in properly, and don't overheat the brakes then brake hold if at all possible. Unless it's absolutely avoidable, I always keep the vehicle moving (at least slowly) and avoid engaging the brakes for a short while after the brakes heat up significantly.


the thing I see most that causes the pulsating feeling and steering wheel shaking is grooved rotors from rust/corrosion and or dirt/rocks in the pads.
 
Idk. The last few days I've been pulling a trailer, and therefore getting into the brakes nice and heavy. They seem better.... I'm wandering if they where glazed, and the extra heavy braking wore off the glaze?

In some research on the whole thing I found something cool. Did you know you can have drum brakes drilled to help with cooling, and with water dissipation? I don't really think it would be to helpful in the 4x4 world, but still cool non the less...
 
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