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Good luck with 2001's??

Time to list my problems. This is on a 2000 Limited, 4.0HO, AW4, 242, the same as a 2001:
-Heated seat switch not going into low. Replaced switch under warranty.
-TC wouldn't shift out of part time coming from full time to 2wd/ Dealer had it 3 times.. first two times no resolusioin. Second time I brought it in for the TC out put leaking. Don't know what else they did while replacing the seal, but it fixed it.
-Window lock out switch faulty, locked the passanger windows out even when disengaged. Switch replaced under warranty
-Rear hatch light switch broke. Replaced under warranty. Broke again 2 hours later. Replaced again and still works.
-In 4x4 full time I have a vibe from the front axle. They said it was normal. Vibe wasn't that bad so didn't do anythign about it. The LP axle is to blame for it. Changing it to a HP soon. Vibes worse than stock in full time with my lift.
-Warped rotors.... this has been the biggest problem of all. Tried several sets of rotors. One OE, one Pepboys, one full cast Napa, one Porterfield cryotempered, crossdrilled, and slotted rotors ($$$). All warped withi n 10k except the Porterfields.
-Water leak from cowl vent for HVAC. The foam around teh splash shield deteroiated and I had to pull teh air box to replace it and use some real sealant. Involved taking the dash apart and pivoting it to allow the heater box to be extracted. Real fun there.
-At 40k miles the left side steering knuckle ball joints needed to be replaced along with the pitman arm side TRE.
-Bushings in stock LCAs are too soft. Causes a near death wobble, wobble with 3.25" of lift around 50-65 mph. RE adjustable LCAs solved the problem.

I believe that is it.

-Chris
 
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Thanks for the help guys. He picked it up last night and it doesnt seem to have anything wrong with it. The rotors arent warped and the speakers all seem to work great! Those were the two most common ones I read about so Ill tell him to keep an eye on em. Thanks again.
 
the 2001 isnt any different in the long run. all vehicles jeeps or not have their quirks. it should be a decent vehicle as long as it has been properly maintained and not abused.
 
jneary said:
the 2001 isnt any different in the long run. all vehicles jeeps or not have their quirks. it should be a decent vehicle as long as it has been properly maintained and not abused.

Yeah.. mine had/has some quirks that have been worked, but the suspension, tranny, transfer case and engine are bullet proof in stock form.

-Chris
 
Both 2001s in my family (me and my brother), plus my friend have had AC problem around 67-80K

Rotors will warp

Get rid of those crappy stock tires

My glovebox raddles like crazy and it drives me crazy!

Not much else
 
steve01XJ said:
JeepGuy,

I bought my '01 Sport last October with 19,000 miles on it - I just turned 30,000 yesterday. Stock Sport setup - 4.0, p/t 4WD, steel wheels. Here have been my issues:

An annoying fuel evaporation problem in the injector #2 or #3. There has been a TSB on this, and ever since my last dealer visit it has been fine.

Speaker wires leave a lot to be desired. That is my next project. I lost the left drivers side speaker competely.

Occasional T-case rattle, but not major.

Brakes have been fine - no warping - yet.

Terrible gas mileage though. I am only getting about 13-15 mpg, but it probably has more to do with the lousy MTBE gas they sell in Chicago. In the winter I was between 18-20.

Occasionally I have indicator lights which go on like the airbag light and/or the MIL - these are a result of bad electrical connectors. Haven't gotten to the point where a firm bump to the dash does not fix it. I will need to deal with this soon though.

I am going in for my 30K service this weekend. So far, no leaks, squeaks or clunks. The car is fast, full of power, a little more comfortable than earlier models, and will likely meet my goal of 200,000 miles. They are still tanks and as long as you do not overpay for it, it will be a great investment.

I think there is a TSB on that but its just as easy to do your self. pull off the bezzel around the radio, remove the four screws on the dash trim. then remove the screws from the knee pice, and dash trim below the steering wheel, and the the screw from the side near the air vent there may be others just look to see. then remove the dash peice it will pull off the head light nob it just needs some motovation. remove the four screws from the insterment cluster and pull it out. clean the contacts with some contact cleaner and put it back together. that should take care of it. [PS. go to 4x4mods and get your self some cool colored face gages to put on while you have got it out].

mine is a 00 my T/C lever rattles a little, the pass. side window swich is tempermential, likes to lope a little when i first start it gose away after about 10 seconds [im not a crank and go driver so it dosnt bother me],and the driver side speaker is possesed. havent had any trouble out of the roters yet with 60k on her.
 
Talyn said:
Yeah.. mine had/has some quirks that have been worked, but the suspension, tranny, transfer case and engine are bullet proof in stock form.

I'm with you on everything but the suspension. Mine was OK from about 81,000 to roughly 89,000 miles, but after some middling desert/trail work, the rear springs are flat (I'm sitting on the bumpstops at the rear) and the front coils are clearly tired. Not surprisingly, it's a lot cheaper to replace the suspension components with aftermarket items than factory and gain some lift in the process - so the plan is to do that once the cash is there to do it. Just my $0.02.
 
Ryan4x4XJ said:
Rotors will warp
Dont drive in OD except on the Freeway/Highway. When you exit or slow for a stop, shift back into third. This may seem like a PITA, but after awhile you won't even notice you're doing it. BTW, this assumes you have the AW4. I've gotten 20K mi. out of my OEM rotors since I had them turned and still no warping. Yet. The last 15,000 have been w/ 31's.
Everything else on my '01 has taken a beating without a wimper. Except maybe the seal on the LP D30, scheduled for swap too. :shiver:
 
Talyn said:
Cleaning the contacts won't do it. The problem is the window lockout switch. Had the same problem with my 2000.
And the problem with your heated seat is in the heating element itself. It is either shorted or open. That is what the blinking means. The light will illuminate in 1/2 second off, 1/2 second on pulses.

Now tell me how you changed the switches to make them come on with a signal from the remote start. I have remote start and would love to have the seats come on in the winter when I RS it.

BTW, you have my twin.

-Chris
Well, i'll try and get some pictures of it and post them. Also, I have your twin XJ, and we've got the same b-day? do-do-do-do (invision the twilight zone)
I'll give you a little info now on th switch. I used a relay that is triggered off the remote start. This triggers two mini relays that i have soldered onto the board of the switches. You have to scratch the protective covering off the board in two places, then solder onto it. This acts as though the button has been pushed after the vehicle is started.
As for the heated seats; did you have to replace the element, or could the problem be fixed?
 
Lawn Cher' said:
I don't recall offhand, but it may be listed in your owners manual; if not, then it is definitely in the service manual. Someone may have posted it on oem tech before, so doing a search there may prove fruitful. I think is was somewhere around 80-90 ft-lbs, but don't quote me on that. Not responsible for loose nuts!

I replaced a tire recently and am getting ready to do a brake job. I recall 90 ft-lbs to be correct. You should always use a torque wrench on wheel nuts. My wife's camaro went through 2 sets of rotors in our first year of marriage. First time I think was deep water, second time was Walmart not using a torque wrench or properly trained mechanics.
 
JeepinAudiophile said:
I Have a 2000 Limited, Tow Package, Heated seats, blah blah... I also had the rattle from below on the linkage, the left front speaker cut out on me a few days ago, the passenger window control is intermitent... if you mess with the driver switch, it will right itself, i plan on pulling it and cleaning the contacts. You can see a picture of my 00' here: http://www.airstreamphotos.com/photos/data/500/5557PICT0006-med.JPG

My passenger window cuts out as well. I've isolated it to the window lock button. If you wiggle it the light in the passsenger switch will turn back on and it will work again. I tried to replace the driverside control, but the jeep dealership gave me the wrong part. If anyone needs a new remote mirror control let me know. It is designed for remote mirrors without power windows. The power window remote mirror is one piece, stupid parts bastards should have known that. Of course I couldn't return it because special order parts are final.
 
Go Go said:
My passenger window cuts out as well. I've isolated it to the window lock button. If you wiggle it the light in the passsenger switch will turn back on and it will work again. I tried to replace the driverside control, but the jeep dealership gave me the wrong part. If anyone needs a new remote mirror control let me know. It is designed for remote mirrors without power windows. The power window remote mirror is one piece, stupid parts bastards should have known that. Of course I couldn't return it because special order parts are final.

If they gave you the wrong part, they should replace it with the right part regardless if it was special order or not... THEY screwed up not you, I'd talk to the manager, if I were you. That's lousy business.

Good Luck! :viking:
 
I have an '01 sport with tow package, abs, and automatic that I bought new. It has 30k miles now. No rotor warping problems, but I just had to replace the front pads. They were totally gone. I installed slotted rotors from tire rack when I replaced the pads. I replaced the stock radio and speakers shortly after I bought it, so I didn't have any opportunity to have radio problems. I've been getting 15-19 mpg, depending on how I drive.

A couple things to be aware of on the '01. First, they have mini-cats just downstream of the exhaust manifold in addition to the main cat. This makes it tough to put on headers. Also, I discoverd that my d35c rear end was not like other d35's when I tried to add an LSD. The ring gear bolts are larger size than a normal d35. Apparently, this was an attempt to make a 'super 35' by dana.

Hope that helps,

Dave
 
Dave DE said:
A couple things to be aware of on the '01. First, they have mini-cats just downstream of the exhaust manifold in addition to the main cat. This makes it tough to put on headers. Also, I discoverd that my d35c rear end was not like other d35's when I tried to add an LSD. The ring gear bolts are larger size than a normal d35. Apparently, this was an attempt to make a 'super 35' by dana.

Dave

There are a few companies making headers for the 00-01 XJs with the precats. Someone on JU has just put a header in his 00.

As for teh D35.... what size were your bolts, and what is the typical D35 bolt? I wonder when they started doing that.

-Chris
 
I used the Banks header, it was a bit of a biatch to install- but it is a stout mo-fo...I'm gonna try and get a pic up of it.


5557PICT0012.JPG
 
i dont think i have thoughs pre cats ill have to look again just to make shure but i dont recall seeing them on my 00 i was just under the inpression that the new style of manafold which appears like a try "y" type desine was so much more free flowing that it wasnt worth replacing.
 
Well, i stepped up to 30's the same day as the header... and did my intake setup, headers, tires, Full Exhaust all in the same week. After all that with the 30's it feels pretty much like stock pickup... but i am going to ahve the rear section of my exhaust re-done. I think all my mods and 2.5" stainless piping have robbed my low-end tourque. So i plan to have them weld on flanges, and down-size to 2" from the muffler back. Plus it sounds ballsy, once i regear i think it's gonna rocket.
 
scoobyxj said:
i dont think i have thoughs pre cats ill have to look again just to make shure but i dont recall seeing them on my 00 i was just under the inpression that the new style of manafold which appears like a try "y" type desine was so much more free flowing that it wasnt worth replacing.

that's what I recall reading too... the cats were taken from a V-8 Grand Cherokee for the 2000's and 2001's, so there is no need for a aftermarket header or cat, because it is equivalently free flowing as any other aftermarket stuff.

:viking:
 
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