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Full width axle +/-'s

M. Lake said:
The 20 ot of an old CJ is the weak tubed, 2 peice axle (junk) but the 20 out of an old waggy is a 1 peice axle with stronger tubes. From what I understand, the waggy 20 is as close to the 44 as you can get. Stay away from the CJ 20. I believe that the 20 was used in some "J" trucks, but not sure.


my bad, I thought it was all 20's
 
Beezil said:
those were hubcaps! on a pink jeep!

OF COURSE WE'RE GONNA LAUGH!


Like I said.... High strength alloy lockout protection disguised as hubcaps. No matter haw many times I tell you... Canyon Copper....
:rolleyes:

:D :D :D
 
Fore Wheeler said:
the 20 is JUNK, the tubes are weak, the 2 piece axles are junk, it does have a big ring gear tho.

Don't get one.

I disagree. Swap to one piece axles, and gusset the rear. You can't beat the ring gear size for the price. The only concern here is DO NOT turn the pinion up to compensate for lift. It's a poor design and won't lubricate well. Don't ask me how I know, but I have seen pieces of a spider gear chew their way out of the rear cover.
 
Have you guys thought about running drive flanges instead of lockouts. They don't stick out as much, and are nearly indestructable. You won't feel them on the road with big tires anyway. I ran them in my old CJ with a 44 and they worked great. I'm not running them in my 60. Something to think about.
Nate
 
STRYKER said:
I disagree. Swap to one piece axles, and gusset the rear. You can't beat the ring gear size for the price. The only concern here is DO NOT turn the pinion up to compensate for lift. It's a poor design and won't lubricate well. Don't ask me how I know, but I have seen pieces of a spider gear chew their way out of the rear cover.

Common now, my 14 bolt 10.5" ring gear makes my D44 ring gear look like a toy. If you're talking about beef for the buck, NOTHING beats a 14 bolt! ;)
 
vintagespeed said:
Common now, my 14 bolt 10.5" ring gear makes my D44 ring gear look like a toy. If you're talking about beef for the buck, NOTHING beats a 14 bolt! ;)

I can't seem to find an argument with that. But the 14 bolt/Dana 60/Dana 70 units I've seen are in the $500-600 range. AMC 20?....I'll buy one for $75, treat myself to $250 worth of one-piece axles and call it good. Now, if I find a Dana 70/Corp. 14 for 300 bones, I'd snag it and never look back.
 
STRYKER said:
I can't seem to find an argument with that. But the 14 bolt/Dana 60/Dana 70 units I've seen are in the $500-600 range. AMC 20?....I'll buy one for $75, treat myself to $250 worth of one-piece axles and call it good. Now, if I find a Dana 70/Corp. 14 for 300 bones, I'd snag it and never look back.

I got my rear D60 from a Pick-n-Pull over here for $100... and since you come from the land of $800 HP front D60s (ie. The East Coast), I don't see why you couldn't find one that's less than $300
 
All truck axles are $86 at the pull and save in Spokane, thats why I can even consider new axles with my budget. I just don't think I need a d60 or 14 bolt rear to run 35's. A d44 should be able to take the abuse right? Has anybody broken a D44 with 35's, locker, 4.88's and alloy shafts? [EDIT: Im sure someone has but what were they doing to there jeep to do it?]
 
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Im full width, 69in WMS dana 60 front, with 4.5in BS ish 16.5X8in rims. I have less then 1in of tire in my wells, so 11.5+ inches out side.

When I took this first pic, my wife came out and was laughing... Thats so wide.....:D

Its 3.5in or so taller now, that was a test of stock Xj rear leafs on the front.

have fun.

download.php
download.php
 
JeepFreak21 said:
I got my rear D60 from a Pick-n-Pull over here for $100...

:eek: :eek: :eek:

What...oh what.... am I doing wrong over here????
 
have less than 500 in my 14 bolt so far, 4.88s detroit, and disc brakes mounts. Plan on spending another 150-200 to finish it. I ground off the lower lip that hangs down. Don't remember the exact #s but I am with in .75 of a fancy 60 measuring from the center of the axle to the bottom lip of the housing. Loosing the drums saves a metric ton off of the 14 bolts.

The amc20 off the waggy's and J10's are actually a great axle. As stated the gearing is limited, but they are have none of the short falls the cj amc20. They are actually marginally stronger than a stock 44. You can pick them up for next to nothing, find a guy upgrading his cj to a 44 or 9 inch and buy the gears and locker used and bolt them in. The only draw back is the axle shafts are a little harder to find if you break one.
 
My rear 60 was free. I've shaved it to give me the same clearance as a 44, built my own disc brake brackets and am doing something that requires a bridge on it now.

There's a few reasons that I don't like 14 bolts.

1- lowest gearing is 5.13

2- heavier than the 60

3- even after shaving it's still a plow unless you're running 38's+

The reason I like the 14 bolt- $380 detroit.

I don't care what part of the country you're in, you shouldn't pay more than $150 for a rear 60.
 
95Steel, you got the 14 bolt with 4.88 gears and a DETROIT and your under $500? I thought the detroit was about $500 by it's self?

BTW, my local yard sells all axles for $200, no matter what it is.
 
My 14B was $75 used. I put a $375 Detroit, $180 5.13s, $75 used 1/2 ton rotors/calipers & a spare set of shafts.........like I'll ever need those....:rolleyes:
 
i have never heard of someone paying more than $200 for a stock 14b. i got mine for $100 and used the original brakes, welded the spiders, and bought gears and install kit for $300 and installed them myself. so im about $400 into my rear, and with the bottom lip shaved and bald 38's i have 1" more clearence then my friend with 35's and a 8.8.
 
alright so who has a good write up on the subject
one of those easy to follow ones that everyone loves
 
How do you guys get high steer arms on the front 44 with 5 inch BS wheels?

Mine come close with 15x9's with 3.75 BS.

CRASH
 
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