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Frozen hood release cable

While getting my XJ inspected last month the inspector tried to pop the hood. I thought he was about to have an anuerism (sp?) until I offered to do it. After a couple of good yanks, it finally opened and he looked at me like I was He-Man or something. Good thing "easy hood opening" wasn't on the list of items to check, or I'd have failed for something else. :)
Now to just find that white lithium grease....
It must be the cool New England air doing this to our '94s.
-Tom
 
These are the 2 bolts you need to get at to release the latch bar.
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I took apart the whole front facia looking for a way in to get at the rod to push and release the drivers side, then stumbled upon this. I bet you could even get by with removing just the headlight. With my truck the problem was definitely the center pivot that the cable pulls on. I keep it well lubed and it has worked great ever since (after replacing the cable when it broke cause I was pulling on it too hard ;-)
Jeep on!
--Pete
 
Thanks everyone for the suggestions - I was able to get the hood open and replace the cable. I also hit the pivot and the two latches with some PB Blaster and some liquid graphite lube, and combined with the new cable, popping the hood is practically a one finger deal now. Thanks again!

Andy
 
I'm up here in VT and I use white lithium grease on the latches, springs and every part of the hood release. It works far better than WD-40 or any other lubricant I've tried. I also do all my door hinges and latches with the lithium grease.

I touch them up with a fresh blast of grease as a part of my "winterizing" process every year.
 
Actually, I had used lithium grease in the past, but I was never really impressed with it's performance. It seemed to dry out and lose it's lubricity rather quickly. WD40 and PB Blaster dry out as well, but they don't leave behind a messy residue, which is why I stopped using lithium grease. We're both in the same neck of the woods, so maybe it was the brand or something.....dunno....
 
My drivers side door on my 87 the latch was siezed, couldn't even shut the door anymore...little stinky stinky white lithium grease, and it works great now.

WD40 I do use, on lock cylinders, all of them on this 87 were awful each got some WD40 and now they all work GREAT.

As nice as white lithium grease is, it's stinky, it's messy, did I mention stinky?

It still out performs the WD40 and PB blaster crap for longevity. In my experience anyhow for lubing stuff.

For breaking rusted parts, PB blaster I find works better than WD40.
Though I use WD40 often enough, I have at least 3 cans of it, and 2 cans of white lithium. Rust eater and PB blaster cans all over as well.

Teron
 
the previous owner of my xj had this problem and went about fixing it in a rather nasty and crude way. his buddy took a crow bar to the fenders with the end under the edge of the hood and smashed the fenders down about an inch. then beat on the hinges till they released. i had to remove the whole assembly and install hood pins. lol !!
 
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