• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Front end popping

I have the short arm kit and it does the same thing. I can feel it in the floor. All the bolts feel tight as a nun. Let me know what you find. RE didn't help me much.

Found the problem... The RE lower control arms rear bushings were shot and the factory axle bushings for the upper control arm mounts were shot also allowing the axle to shift back and forth slightly. All has been replaced and no more popping.
 
Quote:

Found the problem... The RE lower control arms rear bushings were shot and the factory axle bushings for the upper control arm mounts were shot also allowing the axle to shift back and forth slightly. All has been replaced and no more popping.

I am having similar issues with my '98 xj 160,000. I have been through all known potential causes listed in this and other threads. Am suspecting control arm bushings, only because everything else seems to be fine and dandy and am getting popping more in braking situations than in steering situations.

After inspection of the lower control arm bushings, they seem to be original to vehicle noting the rubber cracking. Rubber seems firm with no ovalling to speak of. Rolled inner sleeve and bolt seem to have excess clearance when on the bench.

My question is, what visually or otherwise constitutes a "shot" or worn out CA bushing and even after properly torqed, could a gap between the inner sleeve and the bolt cause a pop as descrbed in this thread?

Thanks
 
My previous posts referred to the popping sound I experienced with my 1987 XJ and the RE control arms.

In my 2000 XJ, for the past 3 weeks, I have been chasing a popping sound when I go over uneven pavement, such as driving over the ramp into a gas station. At first it only happened when crossing a bump at an angle. I replaced the OEM LCAs, because the rubber bushings were cracked. They did not fix the problem. I replaced the rubber sway bar bushings and links, again because the rubber was cracked. Those did not fix the problem. As time passed, the symptom got worse, to the point that I could bounce on the drivers' side door jam and create the noise. It was also evident when I turned the steering wheel hard when parked on pavement. I decided the noise was further forward than the sway bar. The cause was 2 broken spot welds in the seam that joins the sheet metal cross member, just behind the front bumper to the driver's side frame rail. I could feel the gap move with my finger when a friend bounced on the door jam. This joint is located just below the steering box. Once I got the bumper off, I could see ths spot welds were still good at the top of the frame rail, and on the pinch seam at the front, where the 2 front bumper mount bolts connect. This bottom joint of the cross member had shifted 3/16" to the outside, probably from the force of the steering box and drag link. This shift was obvious from the missing paint where the joint moved and exposed new metal. I put a c-clamp on this joint and drove the car to confimr the noise was gone. I pulled the frame rails back in that 3/16", and welded a bead on the edge of the joint. All is well now.
 
Back
Top