Front Driveshaft HELP!!

[rokcrwler]

How did you fit them under there?(doubler) Cut and rework the floor? I thought about changing trannys, but I kinda have some good $$ into my current th-350 that I wont be getting back..

 

[rokcrwler]

Pics of the yoke and tc..

rear of tc.

 

[Ghost]

I run a 203/205 set up. Doubler like a klune would nto be that difficult on your set up. Other options would be to pus the axle forward. My guess is you need to do a combination of things to get it working right.

 

[jbjustin33415]

I had a similar perdicament with my front shaft. I have a LP44 with a NP241 TC and AW4. I had to use a 1330 CV at the TC side and U-joint on axle end. The TC output is at 0* and the axle yoke is at 4*. The angle of the shaft is at almost the maximum of the 1330 joint; at ride height the driveshaft angle is at 28*, when the jeep articulates the driveshaft binds up a bit if the driveshaft is at 31* and up. I too have to limit the downtravel or I believe the shaft will pop. I know my driveshaft setup is not the best but it works for me and my terrain.

I would recommend a double cv shaft which is $$$$ but should work. I was looking at them before but didnt want to spend that much money on a shaft, so I went to the local driveshaft guy and had him make me something from all the driveshafts that I tried to make myself and failed.

If there is a driveshaft shop nearby call them up and pick their brain, maybe yall can come up with a feasible option.

Ill take some pictures of how my driveshaft angles when I get home from work today.

 

[rokcrwler]

Ya I think Ill push it forward first. I like the Klune but they are expensive...

My local DS shop knows less than I do when it comes to high angle stuff. I've been talking with the drivesahaftsuperstore.com and Im looking at the BadBoy80 to be up at the TC and their long yoke.. We'll see I guess.

 

[Ghost]

I had a similar perdicament with my front shaft. I have a LP44 with a NP241 TC and AW4. I had to use a 1330 CV at the TC side and U-joint on axle end.

This does not make sence. I talked at length with TW when I did my doubler about driveshafts. He built me two with the 1310 ujoint DC, it is the same basic joint as the 1330 just a smaller cros section, becasue he said he could machine the DC more and get more travel out of it.
When I was going through the D60 install recently I tried to cut down an old Bronco front shaft for the rear that had a 1330 DC in it and I saw really quick what he was talking about. It bound up at the sitting height. I have sence cut down my TW shaft and it flexes nicely. A 1310 like in the front of an xj will get more flex then a 1330.

 

[jbjustin33415]

This does not make sence. I talked at length with TW when I did my doubler about driveshafts. He built me two with the 1310 ujoint DC, it is the same basic joint as the 1330 just a smaller cros section, becasue he said he could machine the DC more and get more travel out of it.
When I was going through the D60 install recently I tried to cut down an old Bronco front shaft for the rear that had a 1330 DC in it and I saw really quick what he was talking about. It bound up at the sitting height. I have sence cut down my TW shaft and it flexes nicely. A 1310 like in the front of an xj will get more flex then a 1330.

Im sorry but I have to disagree with you Glenn.

First I modified a stock front xj shaft to fit and it would bind up while at ride height. So I brought it to the driveshaft guy to see what he could do. He recommended to move up to a 1330 cv because they are bigger ujoints and give more operational travel to operate at steeper angles. I went to the local jy and snaged up a early 90's Bronco rear shaft with the 1330 cv and had the driveshaft shop rebuild it with all new ujoints and a 1330-7260 conversion joint for the axle side.

A stock 1330 CV operates at a greater angle than a 1310 CV. The bigger the center section of the ujoint the more room it has to operate at higher angles.