Front Detroit vs. lunchbox lockers, in 4wd...

[ZachMan]

Okay planning out all my crap for an early build next year and I am having second thoughts about the detroit. I am open in the rear for now also.

So I am thinking I may want something a little more friendly for my steering, etc. I will be going full detriot or spool in the rear, but I am thinking I rather have something up front with some "slip" to it when I turn even in 4wd.

Keep seeing Aussie and Truetracs mentioned as good choices. I didn't like my powertrax No-Slip in the 8.25 with always having spring issues....I just want something simple and will let me turn okay in 4wd and will keep my hp d30 and 33s alive.

Any advice?

The detroit was cheap, but I just don't know how bad its gonna act in certain situations offroad.

 

[87manche]

it's gonna act like a detroit acts.
If it's not under power it will ratchet, so if you make an effort to coast while turning you'll be alright in 4wd. If you're onthe throttle it's going to be locked 100%.
If you're really concerned about it you have options:
Limited slip
Selectable locker
Disconnect style axle
Warn hub kit with lockouts.

When I lock the front I'm going lunchbox. I don't use 4WD on the street, and if I'm in 4wd it's likely to be in a situation that will allow for wheel slip, which should save the axleshafts.

 

[Gaius]

A Eaton/Detroit Softlocker will act the same in 2wd as it will in 4wd. The TruTrac is a limited slip, and be 'easier' on your front end because it won't lock up.

If you want a locker, but want to freely turn in 4wd, you need a selectable (ARB, E-Locker, T-locker).

Personally, I wouldn't run a Detroit in the front end, they're prone to be taken out by busted u-joints/axles, where a Lockright will usually survive.

And I wouldn't worry about your front shafts with 33s. Lock it up, run some quality Spicer 760x joints, and it will be dependable. Get some alloy shafts (Yukon, Alloy USA, Superior) and it will be solid.

I run Yukon shafts in my HP30 in my TJ with 35s. Haven't broken yet (lots of rocks) but I don't have my doubler in yet either.

 

[ZachMan]

Thanks, I am only concerned with offroad, I know onroad they all act the same cause I am only in 2wd (no snow here).

I was just hearing how if going up or down a steep hill/rock a detroit can get a little squimish, while an Aussie or whatever you can still get the tires to slip some when turning making the Jeep more predictable.

I want traction, but just worried about turning in "iffy" situations. Also not spending $$ on a selectable.

 

[ZachMan]

it's gonna act like a detroit acts.
If it's not under power it will ratchet, so if you make an effort to coast while turning you'll be alright in 4wd. If you're onthe throttle it's going to be locked 100%.
If you're really concerned about it you have options:
Limited slip
Selectable locker
Disconnect style axle
Warn hub kit with lockouts.

When I lock the front I'm going lunchbox. I don't use 4WD on the street, and if I'm in 4wd it's likely to be in a situation that will allow for wheel slip, which should save the axleshafts.

So when turning there is no difference (when on the gas) in a detroit and Aussie/truetrac ? I get myself confused, lol.:wierd:

 

[bj-666]

how often are you coasting thru turns at 1-5 mph? I know i am always on the gas whether it be light or hard thru turns especialy when climbing or other situations where coasting is just not an option. seriously consider getting a selectable to keep your steering under control

 

[ZachMan]

. seriously consider getting a selectable to keep your steering under control

Naw thats not happening...I paid $150 for the detroit which is mint. It just sounds like an Aussie will let one tire turn faster than the other.

I'd rather buy a built hp d44 off Pirate for a good deal than spend $700 on a selectable for a turdy, I just don't plan on being on 33s real long thats all.

 

[TRAILREADYXJ]

I love my aussie in front on 33s. I have broken a couple shafts, but I am not easy on my rig, and it was doing things I shouldn't have been doing anyway.
It does effect the steering some, but it's not too bad. There have been some "iffy" situations where it wants to pull downhill, like in SLICK off camber situations, but letting off the throttle usually stops this, then ease back into it.
I agree on not spending the money for a selectable in a 30, the $250 shipped for the aussie was well worth it till I can get a D44 or 60 in there, then I MAY go selectable. The aussie seems a lot smoother than a lockrite too, you have to listen for mine to ratchet, every rig I've been in with a lockrite has a lot more noise and isn't as smooth. I've also had both in my hands, and the aussie has tighter tolerances, they also don't have a tire size limitation for their warranty like most lunchboxes do..

 

[Gaius]

I'd rather buy a built hp d44 off Pirate for a good deal than spend $700 on a selectable for a turdy, I just don't plan on being on 33s real long thats all.

Why would you need a HP44 for running 33s? Where the most failures are on a Dana 30 are in the axle shafts/joints, it's the same issue on a Dana 44. Unless high steer or running 5.13s is you goal, the HP Dana 30 you have is plenty strong.

 

[ZachMan]

Why would you need a HP44 for running 33s? Where the most failures are on a Dana 30 are in the axle shafts/joints, it's the same issue on a Dana 44. Unless high steer or running 5.13s is you goal, the HP Dana 30 you have is plenty strong.

Cause 35s I plan to run a built hp d44 and 35s.

This is more of a "While I am building my rig" Its nowhere near "I am happy with 33s" lol. I'd just like to still wheel and build my junk while I eventually go bigger. Spending an extra $200 there and here won't help if its still on something thats getting axed eventually (d30) Yeah I realize the d44 uses the same u-joints, but I'll be going all alloy with the d44.

 

[Fairmonco]

Just finished the install of a Detroit Locker in my front end.Turning in 2wd is fine....not so in 4wd....ohwell....the traction makes up for it...lol

 

[ZachMan]

Just finished the install of a Detroit Locker in my front end.Turning in 2wd is fine....not so in 4wd....ohwell....the traction makes up for it...lol

LOL, yeah I plan on just using it. I figure ANY lunchbox will drive the same whenever you're on the gas, mine as well use the stronger detroit.

 

[Gaius]

Cause 35s I plan to run a built hp d44 and 35s.

I run an HP30 with Alloy axles and Spicer u-joints with 35s in my TJ. I haven't broken a shaft (or ring gear) yet. And I play pretty hard.

I consider a D44 a marginal, if any, upgrade over the HP30. Like I said, unless you need lower gears than 4.88s, or want cheap high steer, the 44 isn't worth the cost. Unless you are putting larger outers on it (Dana 60). It's just something to think about.

 

[ZachMan]

Well my stopping point is 35s or 36s so the hp d44 seems to fit the bill. If it weren't a unibody and all that I would just go to real beef, but that takes more work on an XJ.

Also I'd consider larger brakes, real hubs, larger R&P, larger shafts an advantage also. I just didn't like how my XJ drove with 35s as a DD, d30 just seemed like it would wear out faster.

 

[Gaius]

Sounds good. Consider doing Dana 60 outers on your Dana 44. I have my HP44 center section, and I'm puttin ghte parts together for this. I don;t care for the lack of clearance (or price :eyes of HP60s around here. All the advantages you just said, with all the strength of D60 knuckles and joints. It
'd be bulletproof on 36s.