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Front coil/spacer removal... harder the second time than the first!?!

Last thing I did last night... (pic took this morning)
IMG_6845.jpg


This morning...
After removing the old coil. I used vise grips and went slowly. I don't think going slow I needed the vise grips, but hey it worked.
IMG_6846.jpg


After standing on the hub, the front axle drooped enough I (yea one hand on the fender, the other on the coil spring) managed to stuff the new spring in here. Remember to space the coil compressors about 1/3 turn part (as shown) to keep the compressor from interfering with parts of the Jeep. You can also see the vise grips.
IMG_6847.jpg


...and here it is now.
IMG_6850.jpg


edit: Hammering worked really well to remove the 'nub' left after cutting with some propane torch heat after sitting for a while with PB. Gosh wailing away at the dumb thing felt good. Anger management :)
 
For future reference... it costs more, but get or rent a safe spring compressor like this one from OTC. Lifetime warranty and never does anything scary. They cost a lot more, but you will never spend the money twice. As to the swaybar links...glad I live in California. I have never done more than tap one with a hammer to get it out!
OTC6494.jpg
 
/\ wicked cool Coastie. I wish I were a Yooper... nice scenery up there and you're far away from the weekly murders (or other violent crime) in GR, and the daily violent crime in detroit.

Anyways...

4:12am
After another 5 hours or so of wrenching, and stuff, Jeep is on all four wheels. Swaybar links (both) met the hacksaw, but that's ok until I do much driving with it (I wont until the rest of the lift is in).

I'm just glad the coils are done with. Now to the swaybar links... I'd like to remove the skidplate to get the steering wheel straight (stock, after alignment with 2" lift, and now as far as I can tell) the wheel was always a little off, and the skidplate got in the way of me tightening the bolts on the adjuster sleeve in a straight position.
 
also.. rear shock mount. I went at it with a center punch and the weldnuts won't bust loose. Any advice for this? I'd like to fishwire bolts through and secure the shocks with a nut and washer.
-Matt

PICS! (just front coils installed)
IMG_6851.jpg

IMG_6852.jpg
 
nice!

What I ended up doing about the shock weldnuts: http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/broken_shock_mounts.htm

I didn't do it quite as well, but that's a great writeup on the process. I've also heard of people tack welding old rear sway bar brackets (the ones that go on the axle) across the original mounting points.
 
Yes, that is the best write up for doing the custom shock mounts.

I have heard of people not cutting through the floor and using the access panels. When I took a look, it looked like it *might* be possible on one side but definitely not the other side due to how far away the one access hole was from the holes for the shock bolts!
 
Just a question - did you disconnect both ends of the swaybar? If so, it should just lift off from where you're at. If not, you're fighting the other end.

X2 on putting the isolator below the spacer - it will save the spacer, etc. and watch those coil spring compressors - talk about a lot of stored energy just looking for a way out, keep your hands and face clear.

Mark
 
nice!

What I ended up doing about the shock weldnuts: http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/broken_shock_mounts.htm

I didn't do it quite as well, but that's a great writeup on the process. I've also heard of people tack welding old rear sway bar brackets (the ones that go on the axle) across the original mounting points.

Cool!:cheers:

Just a question - did you disconnect both ends of the swaybar? If so, it should just lift off from where you're at. If not, you're fighting the other end.

X2 on putting the isolator below the spacer - it will save the spacer, etc. and watch those coil spring compressors - talk about a lot of stored energy just looking for a way out, keep your hands and face clear.

Mark


When I did the 2" spacers a couple years back... I just plunked the spacers in over the bumpstop and chucked the stock springs back in. Looking at the spacers, they're ok. I think it may depend on how the spring is (is the 'top' coil 'flattened out' or 'open' (and therefore digs away at the material).

Just a theory.
-Matt
 
I can use the stock LCAs with the RE 3.5" coils (temporarily, as the LCA bolts are frozen real bad, PB and propane torch didn't touch 'em... even combined with the BF wrench with 3 cheater bars! (old cycle fork tube, and 2 handles from old small bottle jack. I figured I'd let a shop get those out.)

Try some Gulf Paraffin Wax... the canning stuff from the grocery store and the propane torch. The wax tends to be wicked up by the crud and has worked every time i have tried it. I hear that some scented candles do not work as well but my wife uses this canning wax and it has never failed me.

The wax melts at about 115 degrees so you can use it on places where seals and such are close by... like pinion nuts... the last time I had this issue.
 
Try some Gulf Paraffin Wax... the canning stuff from the grocery store and the propane torch. The wax tends to be wicked up by the crud and has worked every time i have tried it. I hear that some scented candles do not work as well but my wife uses this canning wax and it has never failed me.

The wax melts at about 115 degrees so you can use it on places where seals and such are close by... like pinion nuts... the last time I had this issue.

I'll give that a try.:eeks1:
 
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