Front Axle Doner Question

[FishinChip]

I have a 2001 XJ with a 4.0. Running 33"s and towing my boat wasn't working well for me so I swapped in a Ford 8.8 about a year ago. It's a night and day difference with 4.10 gears and rear disks. I've been off the trail for a year though because I would rather buy a front D30 or other axle already geared at 4.10 rather than set up gears or pay someone 700 bucks to do the job.

So I finally found an axle I think will work.

8953000394 '86-89 Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 30 4.10 NL disconnect axle

Its out of an 86 Cherokee Pioneer with a 4 banger I found on my last junk yard trip. I dont think this axle is going to be around long and would like to go pull it this weekend. Before I do, anyone think this will work for a swap? I just dont know what the NL disconnect is referring to?

I am in no big hurry to get it swapped in, I want to take my time and build it right. New seals, maybe shafts, and who knows I may truss it since its a d30.. But I know someone else is going to pull this thing if I dont hop on it. Lemme know what you think.

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

That axle has a vacuum disconnect on the passenger side. You'll need to either shim it over so it's always engaged, add a posi lok cable or swap in a single piece shaft

Depending on the year it may have CV shafts instead of u joints.

Having swapped one of these into my 94 for the same reason, I'd wait for a later axle without the disconnect, even if I had to pay for gears, because the housing is a bit stronger. I bent mine fairly quick and had to swap it again.

 

[Cottontail]

Yeah, grab it. My first 4.10 axle was out of an 85 or 86 XJ. It worked fine. The issue is that it has a vacuum actuated disconnect (two piece) axle on the passenger side. That can be overcome with a blocking plate and a full length axle shaft.

I'd not hesitate if you aren't going to push it hard. Like Islander said, he bent his. I did also, but it took awhile. You mentioned trussing, which would solve that problem. I say a bird in the hand is better than sitting in the blind hoping one will eventually fly by...

Photo of the axle when I pulled it - this is the vacuum pump that needs to be removed and capped.

Photo of the axle installed with the blocking plate on it.

 

[XJ_ranger]

The disconnect indicates that it has the older style axle shafts, where the passenger side 'long' shaft is actually a 2 piece shaft and has a shift collar that connects the two pieces.

Some may argue that this axle is weaker because the long side axle tube is actually 2 pieces. There are stronger platforms to start from, but I've wheeled with plenty of folks with these 'disco' axle housings without issue.

The axle shafts from your 2001 axle should go in just fine, but there is a modified inner-axle seal kit you'll have to put in to keep gear oil in it.

Also your 2001 axle shafts will have the larger U-joints.

It also may be prudent to keep your outer knuckles, unit bearings, and brakes - there were a few different styles, and to me, there is value in being able to order brakes and bearings for a 2001 XJ when you have a 2001 XJ. Bonus, you wont even have to bleed your brakes to complete your axle swap.

Welcome to the . Take some time to read the forums, there is a lot of technical information already captured here - including these threads:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80708&highlight=axles+rocks

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70422&highlight=axles+rocks

 

[IslanderOffRoad]

The disconnect indicates that it has the older style axle shafts, where the passenger side 'long' shaft is actually a 2 piece shaft and has a shift collar that connects the two pieces.

Some may argue that this axle is weaker because the long side axle tube is actually 2 pieces. There are stronger platforms to start from, but I've wheeled with plenty of folks with these 'disco' axle housings without issue.

The axle shafts from your 2001 axle should go in just fine, but there is a modified inner-axle seal kit you'll have to put in to keep gear oil in it.

Also your 2001 axle shafts will have the larger U-joints.

It also may be prudent to keep your outer knuckles, unit bearings, and brakes - there were a few different styles, and to me, there is value in being able to order brakes and bearings for a 2001 XJ when you have a 2001 XJ. Bonus, you wont even have to bleed your brakes to complete your axle swap.

Welcome to the . Take some time to read the forums, there is a lot of technical information already captured here - including these threads:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80708&highlight=axles+rocks

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70422&highlight=axles+rocks

All this, 100% if you decide to go with it

 

[FishinChip]

If I swapped my full length axle shaft in, would I need an inner seal at all? I assume there is an outer seal. It would just take more diff fluid right? If its an easy swap I have no problem taking it on but an "inner" axle seal doesnt really sound like something easy to get into.

I'l be honest, I was in a big hurry and may be off on the venn number of the axle. I saw the 4.10 on the tag and didn't really think there were that many different d30's in the XJ, I regret not taking the time to look it over further.

Here is a picture I took of the axle tag, judging from the tag and the below options, I would say it is a disconnecting axle...



8953000393 '86-87 Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 30 3.54 NL disconnect axle
8953000394 '86-89 Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 30 4.10 NL disconnect axle
8953000395 '84-85 Cherokee & Wagoneer 30 3.73 NL disconnect axle
8953000396 '84-85 Cherokee & Wagoneer 30 3.73 NL disconnect axle
8953000930 '86-89 Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 30 3.07 NL disconnect axle
8953000931 '84-85 Cherokee & Wagoneer 30 3.31 NL disconnect axle
8953000932 '84-87 Cherokee, Wagoneer & Comanche 30 3.31 NL disconnect axle


One thing I always hated about the design of the non disconnecting axle is that the front drive shaft is always spinning, this just seems to put a lot of unnecessary stress on parts. Is there any way to tie the disconnect into a vacuum line or is that even a desirable set up? This is my DD and wouldn't mind the feature, basically almost like locking hubs right? From what I read though, the inner shaft of the 2 part is real stiff and can strip teeth which can get stuck in the diff. Deff not something I want to deal with.

Thanks for the replies guys!

 

[Tim_MN]

Disconnect axles have the smaller weaker 5-260x u-joints. You will want to eliminate the vac disco completely and use later model axle shafts with the larger 5-297x or the even stronger 5-760x u-joints. My 98 has 248,000 miles on the always spinning D30, no worries.

 

[old_man]

Just for info, the larger axles are available for the disco setup. I can't remember exactly, but I think they were off of a YJ or such. Some searching should provide the answer. It has been 15 years since I did this. As for axle housing strength, I think the disco is heavier with the cast control arm mount unlike the stamped sheet metal of the later axles.

I have never seen an axle break on the disco side and I broke my share of D30 axles before going with a D44.

 

[Georgia Mike]

'95 was the year for the 297x shafts in a YJ. That was the only year (and to my knowledge, only model) they were offered in CAD axle.

Also I saw mention of possible CV style shafts depending on year. Just for info, no CAD axle ever came with CV style shafts. CV shafts only came with the AWD option (NP242 for the later years or the early years came with either a 228 or 229 case) which never came with CAD. So it's possible to find a 4.10 geared high pinion non-disconnect style axle out there (I've seen them with my own eyes), but with the high price of scrap in the not too distant past, most of those early XJ's are now Harbor Freight wrench sets. Plus they weren't all that common back in the day.

I'd take their advice; grab that axle, slap some one-piece shafts in it and go. You'll need to install a new seal in that side. My advice is go to the trouble of putting it in the diff housing where it would normally go. It's machined for it so it shouldn't be a big issue. When I went to one piece shafts in my YJ I had nothing but trouble with leaks after a while because I put the seal at the CAD housing.

 

[Anak]

If I swapped my full length axle shaft in, would I need an inner seal at all? I assume there is an outer seal. It would just take more diff fluid right? If its an easy swap I have no problem taking it on but an "inner" axle seal doesnt really sound like something easy to get into.

There are no outer seals at the outboard ends of the axle housing.

I have not taken apart a disconnect axle. It may well have a seal on the outboard side of the disconnect housing. In that event if there were any change in the amount of gear oil you needed it would actually be less.

Inner seals are indeed what you would need to do. They really are not all that bad. Swapping over your knuckles and axles will be more work than replacing those inner seals.

 

[lazyxj]

Your 2001 XJ has a low-pinion front axle.
Switching to a pre-2000 high pinion axle may present clearance issues with the exhaust flange hitting the front driveshaft, especially with the extra space taken by the two mini-catalytic converters, which pushed the exhaust toward the driver's side.
2000-2001 XJs use an off-set motor mount that helps with the clearance issue. The crossmember can be re-drill to move the rear of the engine over a bit, if necessary.
A low-pinion axle can work fine as long as the lift is under 4", beyond that, caster is hard to get within a useful range.

 

[Georgia Mike]

It may well have a seal on the outboard side of the disconnect housing.

It does. On the outboard side of the disconnect box there is a seal. This seal rides on a machined surface on the axle shaft. The problem with it is that the CAD axle has a much larger OD than a one piece shaft would, plus a one piece shaft would need to be cleaned up a bit so the new seal wouldn't be worn down by the rough surface of the shaft. I can't remember what part # I used for a seal with the correct ID, but it didn't hold up over time so the seal at the housing is the way to go IMHO.

 

[md21722]

On an 01 XJ you may run into interference problems with a high pinion axle rather than the low pinion axle it came from the factory with. The mini-cats and high pinion don't play along in all configurations.

 

[Cottontail]

I have an 01 and started with a 1986 D30 and had no problem. I currently have a newer model D30 HP in it and still no problems. I think the OP will be fine.