Citat3962
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Denver Colorado
Cool!
That helped me too!
Thanks!
That helped me too!
Thanks!
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
Ford 8.8 swap again....i know srry
- Thread starter 93xj-jeeper
- Start date
xuv-this
bondo afficianado
- Location
- southwest VA.
i did this swap to my 95 in dec. as far as brakes go, it is not a drastic improvement, but with 31's mine stops just as good, if not a little bit better than stock. new hard lines are cheap, fit as perfect as you wish, and are simple to do.you would test fit the rear end on the truck, use, some wire to route both mock-lines, then measure it. take an old 8.8 line to the local parts store, then get the next longer length of that size pre flared for each side. the driveshaft ujoint will scrub the muffler, but i put a bolt in the old frame/swaybar hole and wired it to the hanger bracket to pull it over. works flawlessly. also, try to find a recently wrecked exploder-the rotor will not be corroded to the point where they have to be turned; or get new ones-they are as cheap as getting them turned.
i haven't really seen this covered here, but if you feel comfortable replacing a head gasket and desire a locker, you CAN install your own locker. the shims in the 8.8 carrier are DIFFERENT than dana stuff, you can reuse the old ones with its stock gear ratio, and don't have to pull bearings and rebuild the assembly 10x to check the backlash,pattern, etc. this is the best thing yet ive done to mine. for about $1100 i got better brakes, 4.10 gears, beefy(er) axles, and an eaton elocker, and oh yeah, i did it myself.
i haven't really seen this covered here, but if you feel comfortable replacing a head gasket and desire a locker, you CAN install your own locker. the shims in the 8.8 carrier are DIFFERENT than dana stuff, you can reuse the old ones with its stock gear ratio, and don't have to pull bearings and rebuild the assembly 10x to check the backlash,pattern, etc. this is the best thing yet ive done to mine. for about $1100 i got better brakes, 4.10 gears, beefy(er) axles, and an eaton elocker, and oh yeah, i did it myself.
ok i got a question, right now my rear brakes are gone in the 8.25, i will need new everything to replace them, drums, brakes, hardware, etc. i was wondering if it would be easier and cheaper to just go ahead and swap the axle out, and that would be killing two birds with one stone, brakes, and i would have a stronger axle for the 33's. but i am wondering if i should be looking for a 8.8 or a dana 44 that will bolt in from a cherokee. thanks
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
ok - once again -
I whip out my....
buddy's 8.8 axle write up...
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html
I whip out my....
buddy's 8.8 axle write up...
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/ford88.html
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
hman333 said:
well - considering that i decided to swap in a ford 9" rather than replace a backing plate on a d35...
get the 8.8
the 44 is the same axle only harder to find and parts are a lot more $$$ due to the un-common nature of the XJ rear d44... i think my friend spent 300 on brakes for that rear end, while i have spent about 40 on the Ford 9" rear end...
93xj-jeeper
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Pacific Northwest
so heres one more question while this thread was bumped back up.
Basically, did anybody go to 33s with drums then swap in the discs and how much increase in breaking power did you gain. A lot or just marginal increase with the 33s.
If you have a pretty big gain, did you do any other mods to go along with it like prop valve, booster, mc?
Basically, did anybody go to 33s with drums then swap in the discs and how much increase in breaking power did you gain. A lot or just marginal increase with the 33s.
If you have a pretty big gain, did you do any other mods to go along with it like prop valve, booster, mc?
93xj-jeeper said:
I have 34" tires and did the 8.8 swap along with this http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/brakes/xj_wjbrakes03/booster/index.htm and the difference is dramatic. It still won't lock the tires on dry asphalt, but it now feels safe and controllable. If I had to do it over again I would do this http://www.vancopbs.com/hydropricing.htm . I used new parts and it cost a little more than I was planning on, but it was worth it. I did not change the prop valve BTW. The article about the WJ MC swap talks about buying new brake lines from a dealership for the bubble flare ends. I found pre-made lines and adapters at several local auto parts stores for a LOT less $$$ and just bent them into the shape I needed.
