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Ford 8.8 Build Thread

7018 is a low hydrogen rod (lo hy) and is meant to only be run up hill for the reason of the flux running into the puddle and causing porosity


However, if you weld the tubes to the housing before installation, it is pretty easy to manipulate the housing to ensure you can always run up hill.

Slightly OT: I used 1/8 7018 and did 3 1.5" beads equally spaced. Is it going to fold like a taco? :phone::roflmao:
 
good to see someone actually searching for information...

however the thread had been somewhat dead for almost 2 1/2 years.

thumbs on on searching, thumb just about horizontal for reviving dead thread.
 
I have an 8.8 in my b2200 with a 350 chev, It has handled eveything I've thrown at it.

Talk about a Mutt. A ford based Mazda Truck with a Chevy engine! :eek:
 
However, if you weld the tubes to the housing before installation, it is pretty easy to manipulate the housing to ensure you can always run up hill.

Slightly OT: I used 1/8 7018 and did 3 1.5" beads equally spaced. Is it going to fold like a taco? :phone::roflmao:
this is true but it seemed like the person i quoted was meaning you can run it anyway if you watch your puddle. it can basically only be run horziontally and uphill
 
good to see someone actually searching for information...

however the thread had been somewhat dead for almost 2 1/2 years.

thumbs on on searching, thumb just about horizontal for reviving dead thread.

I hear you on this, but after giving it some thought, What is worse : Necro-posting, or having a million new threads on something that has been covered a million times?

One more Question for the 8.8 thread: When I mounted the perches for the proper pinion angle, it looks as though the brakes wont come back off without removing the u bolts. Anyone come up with some clever way around this?
 
do the 8.8 mount kits come with the exact location on where to mount the spring/shock perches? the IRO kit says it has "Extremely detailed installation instructions included" reason why i am asking i only have a 115 and going to tack it up and bring it to a welding shop..
 
I'm almost certain there are no precise measurements involved. You could probably draw a straight line across two diff cover bolts or find some other symmetrical frame of reference through the axle tubes, tack the mounts up to that line & call it a day, though.
 
i know this is over a year old but i just couldn't help myself. smaw 7018 electrodes are designed for all position welding.
here's the break down of welding electrode numbers
the first 2 numbers are the tensile strength
the 3rd number is the position it should be used in
the 4th number is the type of current used for welding

positions
1 all positions (flat, horizontal, vertical, overhead
2 horizontal and flat only
3 flat only
4 flat, horizontal, overhead, vertical down

i'm not going to list the different types of current, cause i'm lazy.

so in a nut shell, a 7018 electrode has a tensile strength of 70,000lbs, can be welded in all positions and should be ran using ac or dcep (alternating current, or direct current electrode positive).
 
do the 8.8 mount kits come with the exact location on where to mount the spring/shock perches? the IRO kit says it has "Extremely detailed installation instructions included" reason why i am asking i only have a 115 and going to tack it up and bring it to a welding shop..

When I did my 8.8, I put it on floor jacks under the XJ, centered it left-to-right, then slowly let the weight of the XJ down. This is with it on the spring perches. This way, I could rotate the axle to get the pinion aimed correctly without using degree shims. Then the perches were tack welded. While it was under there, I also located the shock mounts and tacked them as well.

Then jack up the XJ and pull the axle out for easy access to weld the spring perches and shock mounts.
 
Let's, for a moment, talk "bump Stops" for the 8.8 builds. I put my 8.8 in a year ago, but haven't had time to add the stops. It's been a trailer hauling 'streeter' for long enough...I'm just wondering if there are any photo examples showing how you accomplished it, and a quick note about what products you used...

Thanks,

Sr
 
For those that go this route, the "extra" hole near the top of the diff is for the Vehicle Speed Sensor. Note that it lihes up with the tone ring. In their infinite wisdom, Ford put the sensor into the back axle. My Wife's 96 Full Size Bronco is the same. And, they fail, on a fairly reliable interval...
 
Let's, for a moment, talk "bump Stops" for the 8.8 builds. I put my 8.8 in a year ago, but haven't had time to add the stops. It's been a trailer hauling 'streeter' for long enough...I'm just wondering if there are any photo examples showing how you accomplished it, and a quick note about what products you used...

Thanks,

Sr


I welded a tab to the side of my Ruffstuff leaf plates for the factory bump to contact, similar to the ones offered by JKS.
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lift-Kit...&t_s=399&t_pt=5538&t_pl=103301&t_pn=JKSOGS971

~Alex
 
So will a 99 explorer work for this conversion as well? I have a 99 cherokee and am looking for the 4:10 conversion just want to know if all of this is the same as whats posted. and if so can i just move the old spring mounts from my stock axel and move the stock shock mounts over and up a bit so they don't hang down below the bottom of the axel. Thanks guys.
 
Yea, Definitely buy/fab some new spring perches and shock mounts. stock ones wont be strong enough. There are plenty of companies that make swap kits. MORE, ruff stuff, and a few others. dont forget you have to regear the front too. Im swapping a front dana 30 out of an older 4cyl xj that had 4.10's
 
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