For God sake Help Me! and Hi all.

[LostintheWoods]

The cps gremlins you had, cleaning fixed the problem and no need for replacement?
I just spent a my lift kit budget on a feul pump and filter so I'd like to fix this the first time and cheaply if possible.

 

[rockwerks]

The cps gremlins you had, cleaning fixed the problem and no need for replacement?
I just spent a my lift kit budget on a feul pump and filter so I'd like to fix this the first time and cheaply if possible.

yep worked for me.

 

[bjlinma]

If the sensor doesn't pan out, try cleaning the connections to the ballast resistor. It's on the drivers fender on my '89. Cleared up some engine cutout problems I had and it only takes 2 seconds.

 

[ChuckD]

The cps gremlins you had, cleaning fixed the problem and no need for replacement?
I just spent a my lift kit budget on a feul pump and filter so I'd like to fix this the first time and cheaply if possible.

I have replaced about 3 CPS's. The original was bad had about 130k on it and then replaced with the autozone cheapies. I feel they are good, they may not have been bad, but trouble shooting other porblems like the wires to my coil and MAP sensor, I replaces the CPS a couple times.

Also you can do a Diag off the computer, I think it's three half turns on the ignition. Then read the coses blinking on the cheack engine light.

 

[csr_011]

Good luck, been fighting the same thing for over a year. ALL sensors and pressures test good... Let us all know if you find anything.

Just found melted/shredded CPS harness, replaced it, starts up first thing in the morning and then is a pain in the ass to start after sitting for a bit. Still dies intermittently on bumps and right turns with a bump, sometimes fires right up, sometimes it takes 20 cranks to fire... Cuts out when throttle is under load too like passing on the highway. Has even died on me when slamming the hood shut after looking at whatever...I dont get it, mechanics cant find anything wrong...

Im at the point of just selling it for what i can get, not worth the hassle anymore. The RENIX is the biggest piece of garbage system on the road! NEVER had these kinds of problems on ANY Ford or GM vehicle i have owned...

Oh, its an 87 Cherokee, rebuilt 4.0, 4x4, auto, 4 door.

Cory

 

[rockwerks]

Good luck, been fighting the same thing for over a year. ALL sensors and pressures test good... Let us all know if you find anything.

Just found melted/shredded CPS harness, replaced it, starts up first thing in the morning and then is a pain in the ass to start after sitting for a bit. Still dies intermittently on bumps and right turns with a bump, sometimes fires right up, sometimes it takes 20 cranks to fire... Cuts out when throttle is under load too like passing on the highway. Has even died on me when slamming the hood shut after looking at whatever...I dont get it, mechanics cant find anything wrong...

Im at the point of just selling it for what i can get, not worth the hassle anymore. The RENIX is the biggest piece of garbage system on the road! NEVER had these kinds of problems on ANY Ford or GM vehicle i have owned...

Oh, its an 87 Cherokee, rebuilt 4.0, 4x4, auto, 4 door.

Cory

when it dies try relieveing the pressure in the fuel rail at the port (shrader valve) and see what happens.

 

[csr_011]

Ok, will do, but one question. What will that prove or what is the reasoning for it? Just curious.

Cory

 

[rockwerks]

Ok, will do, but one question. What will that prove or what is the reasoning for it? Just curious.

Cory

It seamed to work on mine from time to time almost like the fuel rail was voporlocked

 

[CheapXJ]

The RENIX is the biggest piece of garbage system on the road!

you have no idea how wrong you are.


above your brake booster is a large wiring connector, pull it apart, spray with contact cleaner and apply new dielectric grease.

your problem is there.

if you feel really ambitious, cut it out all together and solder the wires together.

that connector was eliminated in mid-88 because of the problem you're having.

 

[CheapXJ]

but if you don't wanna, I'll give ya $100 for it.

 

[rockwerks]

you have no idea how wrong you are.


above your brake booster is a large wiring connector, pull it apart, spray with contact cleaner and apply new dielectric grease.

your problem is there.

if you feel really ambitious, cut it out all together and solder the wires together.

that connector was eliminated in mid-88 because of the problem you're having.

both of my 89 MJ's have theconnector adn also the 89 I got the motor and harness from for the rock crawler

 

[5-90]

Actually, I don't have a lot of trouble with the C101 bulkhead connector (but it's going to become an Amphenol or two someday anyhow - I just don't like "packed" connectors...)

The CPS fault is common - the last couple I've lost, tho, were due to the wiring getting too close to the header. This resulted in either the wires contacting each other - NULL signal - or a wire getting exposed and grounding out intermittently.

In both cases, I've been able to chop the wiring, splie in a new section, reterminate, and off I go (using OTS stuff.)

As far as getting the thing in and out, I've got two suggestions:
1) It should still take an 11m/m or 7/16" wrench (same thing.) Go to Sears and get a "universal" socket, with the joint inbuilt. This gives you an extra inch of clearance. Don't get the deep socket - get the shallow.
2) I found - by pure luck - a 30" x 3/8" drive extension that I bought for $10. Some of the best money I've ever spent on my Jeeps. With that and the universal socket, I can change a TPS in less than a half-hour without having to unbolt anything else.

Here's another idea to save trouble - when you get the new CPS (or repair the old one...) get out your Dremel or a small hacksaw. As the CPS is installed in the engine bay (sorry, I don't have a pic...) you'll want to extend the bottom hole straight toward the end of the bracket (AWAY from the sensor body), and the top straight to the bottom of the bracket (TOWARD the flexplate/flywheel.) Why? This allows you to put the bolts in loosely, set the sensor in place onto the bolts, then just have someone/thing hold the sensor down while you tighten the bolts. I ALWAYS do this - the five minutes spent on this on the bench saves about 20 minutes of wrestling under the truck! I don't even take the bolts out anymore - I just loosen them a few turns and change the sensor.

It doesn't hurt to clean that connector (I do,) but I never repack the thing - makes it hard to check.

There have been a few TSB updates on wiring the CPS directly into the ECM, which was done because sometimes the harness would suppress the signal. However, this is something that usually showed up early in the vehicle's life - if you've got anything over 100Kmiles, it's probalby not your problem.

Average CPS service life seems to run 150-180Kmiles. Keep a spare on the shelf.

5-90

 

[red91]

I have replaced about 3 CPS's. The original was bad had about 130k on it and then replaced with the autozone cheapies. I feel they are good, they may not have been bad, but trouble shooting other porblems like the wires to my coil and MAP sensor, I replaces the CPS a couple times.

Also you can do a Diag off the computer, I think it's three half turns on the ignition. Then read the coses blinking on the cheack engine light.

the pain for me is that the comptuer is throwing out NO CODES whatsoever.

I'm hitting this one blind.

 

[old_man]

There is a factory notice about the C101 and they recommend just cutting it out and wiring it straight. I did that when I went from the 2.5L to the stroker and have had no problems. It's a quick and permanent fix to all the problems related to the C101 connector.

 

[LostintheWoods]

ok So even as we spaeak (read?) my 94 xj is at the dealer's shop being diagnosed. I'm supposed to get it back fixed today so I'll keep the secret remedy to myself so I dont ruin the fun for everyone else. Just kidding. Did you know those greedy buggers charge $100/hr?!?!

 

[ChuckD]

the pain for me is that the comptuer is throwing out NO CODES whatsoever.

I'm hitting this one blind.

The only other issue I had is when the engine temp would get to 210 or just slightly over. I would lift the hood, it would cool down and off I would go. It wouldn't matter how many times I unplugged the CPS. I believe I have fixed it, I respliced a new wire lead to the coil. Sofar it has done the trick, but I don't use my XJ for a DD anymore.

 

[csr_011]

Simple enough, have to try it. What causes the vaporlock?

Cory

 

[csr_011]

The plan in the morning is to get a case of contact cleaner and dielectric grease then spray and grease up EVERY connector/connection/plug/bundle of joy that i can find.

If that dont get it, start the bidding at $1100...

I took my old dead blow out and a big handled screwdriver and tapped lightly on everything that could possible be jolted that could possibly make it die sitting at idle in the garage...and NOTTA darn thing even made it hessitate or anything...I wish I knew an old electrical guru in the Kearney, NE area!!

Cory