prljeep
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Toledo, OH
I am reposting a post from a MJ yahoo group I belong to. Disclaimer for the person that wrote this- I DID NOT write this or come up with the idea! I am only interested in getting more feedback (as our yahoo group is small).
"I have a question: I was looking under my truck today, thinking and
dreaming up mods as I often do, and in looking at the rear Dana 35
axle and the way everything is configured on it, why couldn't I just
flip it over and make it a spring OVER axle with the only mod being
the rerouting of brake lines? By flipping it over, I mean taking it
off, and remounting it with the left hub on the right, and the right
hub on the left, with the drive shaft of course still facing forward,
and the leaf plates and shock mounts UPSIDE DOWN...Think about it:
The leaf spring plate is virtually level with the pavement. The
shock mounts to the inside SIDE of the bottom leaf plate. Here are
the only drawbacks, but with easy solutions, I can see to my little
scheme! First, the differential cover is not QUITE symetrical and
couldn't just be turned upside down to keep the filler hole in a
stock location: Solution= Remember to leave the gear oil level about
an inch below the filler hole. Second, the brake lines for that
silly valve thingy mount to welded brackets on the top of the axle:
Solution=Strap them to the top of the axle when flipped with either
banding, or some other creative means. Third, brake drums would be
upside down: Solution=Either leave them like that because the parking
brake cables would at least exit towards the front and should work
anyways, OR take off the backing plates and switch them around so
they face the right way, even if that means the drilling of new holes
in the backing plates (I can't remember if they are symetrical or
not). Forth, and this may be a big one with some, but is actually a
plus with me, the shock mounts would be above the axle as high as
they hang below it stock. To me this means more clearance and the
retention of the new expensive stock size shocks I just put on her.
To another, this may mean that they can't use longer travel shocks.
Solution: I have no idea beyond possibly welding a new mount down
lower or using some sort of a bracket extention, but that defeats the
purpose of doing this without welding or heavy mods. Any feedback?
Can anyone give me a reason why this won't work? I know the gears
will be equally well lubed, as they sit half submerged in the gear
oil anyways, so that's not an issue. The only thing that MAY end up
being an issue would be drive shaft length/angle, as, from looking at
everything under the truck, it appears that flipping the axle would
create about 6-8 inches of lift!!! FEEDBACK PLEASE!!! I'm all
excited about doing this, but if it can't be done, let me know, and
why not. Thanks!!!"
"I have a question: I was looking under my truck today, thinking and
dreaming up mods as I often do, and in looking at the rear Dana 35
axle and the way everything is configured on it, why couldn't I just
flip it over and make it a spring OVER axle with the only mod being
the rerouting of brake lines? By flipping it over, I mean taking it
off, and remounting it with the left hub on the right, and the right
hub on the left, with the drive shaft of course still facing forward,
and the leaf plates and shock mounts UPSIDE DOWN...Think about it:
The leaf spring plate is virtually level with the pavement. The
shock mounts to the inside SIDE of the bottom leaf plate. Here are
the only drawbacks, but with easy solutions, I can see to my little
scheme! First, the differential cover is not QUITE symetrical and
couldn't just be turned upside down to keep the filler hole in a
stock location: Solution= Remember to leave the gear oil level about
an inch below the filler hole. Second, the brake lines for that
silly valve thingy mount to welded brackets on the top of the axle:
Solution=Strap them to the top of the axle when flipped with either
banding, or some other creative means. Third, brake drums would be
upside down: Solution=Either leave them like that because the parking
brake cables would at least exit towards the front and should work
anyways, OR take off the backing plates and switch them around so
they face the right way, even if that means the drilling of new holes
in the backing plates (I can't remember if they are symetrical or
not). Forth, and this may be a big one with some, but is actually a
plus with me, the shock mounts would be above the axle as high as
they hang below it stock. To me this means more clearance and the
retention of the new expensive stock size shocks I just put on her.
To another, this may mean that they can't use longer travel shocks.
Solution: I have no idea beyond possibly welding a new mount down
lower or using some sort of a bracket extention, but that defeats the
purpose of doing this without welding or heavy mods. Any feedback?
Can anyone give me a reason why this won't work? I know the gears
will be equally well lubed, as they sit half submerged in the gear
oil anyways, so that's not an issue. The only thing that MAY end up
being an issue would be drive shaft length/angle, as, from looking at
everything under the truck, it appears that flipping the axle would
create about 6-8 inches of lift!!! FEEDBACK PLEASE!!! I'm all
excited about doing this, but if it can't be done, let me know, and
why not. Thanks!!!"