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Flaccid Brake Pedal / Steering knocked out of alignment?

Guys, thank you for all the helpful posts and tips. I"ll check into all the things mentioned, lost fluid again overnight. If I can't find something obvious I'll take it in but I'm hoping I can find it myself; I hate paying a shop for something I know I can do myself but just can't pinpoint.
 
Got under the truck today. Master, booster and the area where they connect looks clean and free of any fluid. No paint damage or residue. Followed the front lines from the master to the calipers, nothing looks disturbed or wet that I could see. Followed the line under the length of the car to the rear, everything looked fine. Inner passenger rear wheel edge is wet/oily, driver's side is not. The oily wheel's drum assembly also looks noticeably moist whereas the driver's side is completely dry.

I only have experience with disc brakes, not drums. Does this sound like the culprit? Is it conceivable for something inside the drum assembly to be leaking? Again, I don't even have a mental image of what's inside there which is why I ask. If I were to open it up tomorrow, what would you recommend I look for if something isn't totally obvious?
 
Just like disk brakes, drum brakes also have a cylinder & piston assembly. Drum brake cylinders are smaller (less fluid used,) and double ended, whereas disk calipers have large cylinders, and only push in one direction.

It sounds like you've got a bad wheel cylinder on the passenger side. If it's leaking, and as oily as you say, you'll also need to put new shoes on, brake fluid contamination will ruin the lining.

Drums are rather complicated assemblies compared to discs. Half a dozen springs, linkages, cables, screw adjusters, etc. If you've never worked on them before, take both wheels off, and both drums, THEN ONLY WORK ON ONE SIDE. Use the other side as a model, remembering that parts are mirrored, i.e. don't think left & right, think leading & trailing components. You may need to pop the knockout plug at the bottom of the backing plate and collapse the adjuster if there's a ridge worn around the rim of the drum.

You definitely want to start hosing down the brake line connection into the back of the backing plate with rust penetrant a couple of times a day, for at least a couple of days before you start working on it, and use line wrenches, not open end wrenches to avoid ruining either the flare nut or twisting the line off. Personally, I'd think seriously about replacing both wheel cylinders, not just one. And I'd definitely replace both sets of shoes, and the remaining hardware is cheap enough, always replace it with a brake job.
 
Just like disk brakes, drum brakes also have a cylinder & piston assembly. Drum brake cylinders are smaller (less fluid used,) and double ended, whereas disk calipers have large cylinders, and only push in one direction.

It sounds like you've got a bad wheel cylinder on the passenger side. If it's leaking, and as oily as you say, you'll also need to put new shoes on, brake fluid contamination will ruin the lining.

Drums are rather complicated assemblies compared to discs. Half a dozen springs, linkages, cables, screw adjusters, etc. If you've never worked on them before, take both wheels off, and both drums, THEN ONLY WORK ON ONE SIDE. Use the other side as a model, remembering that parts are mirrored, i.e. don't think left & right, think leading & trailing components. You may need to pop the knockout plug at the bottom of the backing plate and collapse the adjuster if there's a ridge worn around the rim of the drum.

You definitely want to start hosing down the brake line connection into the back of the backing plate with rust penetrant a couple of times a day, for at least a couple of days before you start working on it, and use line wrenches, not open end wrenches to avoid ruining either the flare nut or twisting the line off. Personally, I'd think seriously about replacing both wheel cylinders, not just one. And I'd definitely replace both sets of shoes, and the remaining hardware is cheap enough, always replace it with a brake job.

This is all great advice. I'd take it a step further and replace the brake lines coming from the T fitting. I replaced damn near everything pertaining to brakes in the rear of my XJ a few months ago. After soaking the lines in PB blaster for a couple days, I still couldn't turn the flare nuts without twisting the line. It's not very expensive to replace both the lines.

Another thing, use anti-seize on the threaded part of the self adjuster. This will make it so it doesn't rust up and stop working completely.
 
Certainly seemed to be the wheel cylinder today. It was nice to be able to go to Autozone and walk out with a new one for $11, in contrast to when I received my BMW's front wheel bearing in the mail today. I got one made in China which I refuse to put on, and now I lose out on installing it tomorrow while I wait to send it back.

I digress however, and I installed the replacement wheel cylinder and bled the rear brakes. Pedal feels consistent. I was going to bleed all four corners but for reasoning counter to my own, SAE sized bleeders were used on the calipers whereas metric was deemed suitable for the rear. Having only owned BMWs before (older ones) all of my wrenches are metric so I couldn't safely get the front bleeders open.

Are the star adjusters two of the same part, or are they side specific? I.E. do I spin up on one side to expand and down on the other to expand, or are they unique so that I'm spinning, say up, on both to expand? I might need to tweak their settings for the parking brake. I can't remember what I ended up doing for each while I was out there and don't want to go under to adjust them just to spend 5 minutes accidentally retracting a side and ruining my adjustments so far.
 
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Welcome to the wonderful world of XJs, where you'll find a lovely combination of SAE and metric fasteners. No Whitworth, fortunately.

The drum adjusters are definitely side specific. If you get the wrong one installed, the shoes will collapse with every actuation of the adjuster.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world of XJs, where you'll find a lovely combination of SAE and metric fasteners. No Whitworth, fortunately.

The drum adjusters are definitely side specific. If you get the wrong one installed, the shoes will collapse with every actuation of the adjuster.

No worries there, I never disassembled the drivers side and didn't replace the passenger adjuster so as long as they were correct parts when it came to me, they still are. Any idea as to up/down being expand/retract?
 
Honestly, I have to look at them every time. Look at the teeth on the adjuster wheel, the actuating arm will hit square on the perfectly flat edge, and the arm will trip by on the angle edge in the other direction.
 
The self adjusters I bought had L and R stamped on them so you didn't mix up what side to put them on.
 
I believe that's correct. I did mine this fall, and I believe they ratchet open, and the arm is to keep the shoes from retracting too far to be effective. I hadn't done drum brakes in years, but it wasn't too bad. Go slow, take pictures, Google search if you can't figure out how you put them together wrong, etc.
 
The wheel slips past the arm to expand the shoes. To retract you need to push the arm away and turn the wheel the opposite direction. The arm keeps the shoes from retracting as well as an adjusting mechanism when you either use the parking brake or reverse and brake the go forward. I am a bit fuzzy on the adjusting technique since its been a while.
 
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