Exo-Cage Kit?

[NOTNSUV]

I've done the search and can't seem to pin down a thread on exo-cage kits. I'll keep looking around the forums and Google tho'. Meanwhile, I thought you guys might have some insight for me. Any kits out there that you know of?

Eric's book says C-Rok has a good kit but it's not popping up on their website. I emailed them just now to inquire whether they still build them so will wait to hear back. Just looking for a weld together pre-bent kit to weigh my options for cost and time.

Me and my son-in-law (the fabricator/welder, and he has a bender) have done preliminary brainstorming on how to build a cage by using the JCR base roof rack without the side rails (http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/RCK/XJ-RCK-B.html) as a foundation, and building the cage incorporated into my AJ's front winch bumper and JCR tire carrier bumper and/or JCR lower panel guards and JCR Stage 3 sliders. I just finished installing the new Rusty's body panels/fender flares (http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-e...covers/rustys-steel-fender-flares-xj.html),(I love them BTW - look good powder coated black to match my black paint and are very stout, but yes, they're expensive) and it seems perfectly reasonable that we could tie into these as well to cinch everything together. We would probably add horizontal pieces on top as a 'tree slider' as well and a low profile light bar for a 40" dual row LED bar, some tabs for lights in back, shovel/axe rack, and a mount for a couple Roto-Pac water jugs.

I guess I'm answering my own questions but it's experienced advice I'm looking for. Pros & Cons, ya know. What do you have, what do you like, what might you do differently and what haven't I thought about? Is it just dumb to think about 'pinning' the cage so it could be removed easily with the overhead hoist? Would that defeat the integrity of the cage?

For a rig I bought to tow my boat around Montana on vacation I've sure turned it into an addiction. Every time I add something (like the Rusty's Flares) it sparks a burning desire to do something more. Was not intended as a crawler and still isn't, but will be capable - I'm sort of 'hybridizing' it for Overland/hunting rig, crawler when needed or to try to hang with the bigger dogs when the opportunity arises .. it all started really when I bought Eric's beefed up diffs.. thanks man! Once I trimmed the fenders and added the flares it's screaming for 33s which I'll probably order tomorrow (I'm convinced I want 33 x 10.5" for more clearance than 12.5" and I'm leaning toward BFG KM2 over the Toyo MT - the only 10.5 options) then will end up with ACOS front and a 1" shackle kit for another inch lift, bringing the total to about 4.5 - 5.0. Then it'll probably require a longer shock to maximize flex.. blah, blah, blah. It's a flippin' disease as you guys already know. If it functions as good as it looks it'll be bad-ass. It's probably way prettier than most would like. Might as well try to keep it that way. Only need to bang it hard once to make it look like a beater - not that there's anything wrong with a beater if it performs. Seems like everyone who builds an XJ goes through various stages of changes/improvements.. again, an incurable disease.. but fun and satisfying, eh?

All this is in hopes of making the 4th Annual Reno Run so I can say it's not just a mall-crawler. Looking forward to the pucker factor.

Anyway, I appreciate any feedback.

Gary

 

[Bryan C.]

It really depends on what you are looking for. The current hybrid cage design seems to work well for me, and for others as well. A true exo is nice if you roll over in a parking lot or other flat surface, but not in real life.

Check out jeep 450r thread, he did a really nice hybrid cage. Mine is very similar.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1036768


I used .188 wall DOM on the roof sliders and anything that will see rocks. Unfortunatley my roof cross bars were only .120 dom and bent, but the slider was fine.
A recent rollover of mine..

You can hardly even tell....

 

[goodwilljeeper]

In my research for cage designs I feel it depends on how much protection you want. Also if your a tall dude and how u like the looks. If your thinking exo...really look into hybrid cages like jeeper 045 like Bryan said. Think of it this way, if you roll an exo cage only, its like stepping on or pushing over a card board box...its gonna flex and fold over. If you have a center piece tieing it to the "frame" and floor then it will be just enough stronger to protect you in the event u get into a hairy situation. If you do it right it can look bad ass like you want. Just a thought that was brought to my attention when I was researching on how I'm doing my cage this summer

 

[goodwilljeeper]

Since its also your tow rig you can always do the removable inside like my idea..but there some skepticism w it I have gotten back

 

[Phil]

Why do you want a cage? Occupant protection, chassis stiffness, protect the body?

Assuming you have a four door, you can replace front fenders and all doors if they become too beat up. Buy some quarter panel armor for the area you can't replace, and drive slowly and carefully. Take the time to back up and reposition.

If you are going to do any fabricating, I would not waste money buying roof racks to incorporate. Maybe bumpers, maybe not.

Removable is a bad idea. Will you ever actually remove it? If you do damage a section, how hard will it be to reinstall or will you have to make new pieces? How do you connect the pieces, bolts and tabs or expensive, precision tube clamps with no misalignment?

 

[Ben H]

How do you connect the pieces, bolts and tabs or expensive, precision tube clamps with no misalignment?

But what if you weld several precision tube clamps end over end?

 

[AIbandit]

If you are going to do any fabricating, I would not waste money buying roof racks to incorporate. Maybe bumpers, maybe not.

I definitely agree here, You'd have to run tubing down through your roof anyway because those gutter mounts certainly wont handle it.

But what if you weld several precision tube clamps end over end?

 

[NOTNSUV]

My apologies to the monitors and all for duplicating a thread in two different forum sections - probably a big no-no. Such a newb.
But you guys did come through for me.

I'm still interested in feedback but y'all can put this to rest if you want. Here's a copy of the rambling response I placed on the Modified Tech section:

Wow! Great responses guys. Exactly what I was looking for. Funny thing about a little research and advice through experience, sometimes it makes me re-think the whole shaboom and decide what I thought I had to have might be overkill for the intended use.
Don't think you've wasted your breath on me if I decide to go with just a roof rack and add 'tree sliders', considering the intended use and likely infrequency of getting into situations where I might actually need a cage, and whether I would actually have the stones to push the rig to those limits - at my ripe old age and the bucks I have invested in this thing - it's likely I'd back out, at least until I get some real rocky stuff under my belt and learn the limits/capabilities of the Cherokee and my driving abilities. Chances might be good that the Jeep has more capability than I have guts, at least judging by some of the You Tube stuff I've watched - there's some stuff being done out there that there's no way I'd try, at least at this point. Also have to consider the passengers, wife, grand kids, etc. If it spooks me it might just spook them into never getting in the Jeep with me again and I might have to install garage made scabs on the cage so every XJ that drove by me wouldn't point and laugh at how pretty it is - I certainly don't wanna be 'that guy'. :looser:
And, a great point one of you made - other than rear quarters most of the body panels are fairly easy to replace. I just finished installing Rusty's fender armor with steel flares on all 4 corners, have rear lower panel guards, skids, sliders, bumpers.. should be good to go.
Forgive the babbling - I'm on zero sleep in 30+ hours but it looks like I've talked myself out of it with your help, and I appreciate it. That's pretty cool to get great feedback to help with good decisions. Don't wanna get mushy on all y'all but you came through big-time. Some say the tree sliders are unnecessary as well but I'm going to stick to my guns on that one. There are mucho-plenty trees and off camber stuff on the trails I intend to run. Save the roof, the trees will save me from a rollover.

Hehe.. I've had this rig for a year and a half and have probably driven it 200 miles.. all on pavement. It's going to be your quintessential "bought, not built" XJ. Sorry but I have no welding or fab skills. That's all I need is to learn that stuff and I'll be welding crap on until death do us part and never get it out of the shop.

33 x 10.50 KM2 with Black Rock fake bead locks go on tomorrow morning. Then it's bumpstop and maybe add ACOS and rear shackles. I'm gonna take this thing out in the hills and play! I'll get the lockers and compressor wired up soon but I need to DRIVE this thing. Time to stop talkin' and start rockin'! It ain't like I don't have 40+ years 4x4 experience in a lot of different conditions.. hell I pulled an 8000lb LMC 1500 snowcat as far as possible with a chained on all 4 pickup until I'd get stuck then offload the cat and yard the truck out and continue the trip to 8 - 10,000' microwave sites on a daily basis for years.. in both Montana and N. Nevada I've just never had a 'built' 4x4.. get over it and get on with it already.

Whew, I've worn myself out.. I can imagine how you guys are doing :wow:
If nothing else, the next guy that types Exo-Cage in the search line will get this one on top. Hope it helps him, too.

Thanks again. All decisions are subject to change when building an XJ.

Gary

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

yeah that's quite the novel you've got there. I'm on break at work so I didn't exactly get all the detail, but here's some great links of cage tech to bring to your fab guy. just show him a picture of what you want and he should be able to get pretty close

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/766246-totm-unibody-cage-tie-ins.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/953563-time-change-boatside-new-cage.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/1116780-rear-seat-cage-pics.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/1088541-another-hybrid-cage.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/725606-exo-cage-how-much-dom-needed.html
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/569760-building-exo-cage-friend-help-out-some-pics.html

here is some good discussion about cage design. must read! (also features a great picture of a guy who barrel rolled his HREW internal cage, held up very well)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/jeep-cherokee/596593-xj-cage-design-discussion.html

and you'll notice that all these guys are tying their cages into their frame plates and rock sliders. yes, you will want and need plating! heres a great link about welding to the uniframe
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/9750902-post14.html


as for my experience, I rolled my jeep the first time I wheeled it. my new build will simply have an external halo with bars going down the A pillars and through the front fenders (just like every body else). and have an internal X behind the front seats. engine cage will soon follow, the purpose of my cage is to stiffen the uniframe.

 

[Jes]

I did roof sliders and A pillar protection, has worked great...

...and my junk is still clean...

:anon:

 

[Hillbilly XJ]

I've done the search and can't seem to pin down a thread on exo-cage kits. I'll keep looking around the forums and Google tho'. Meanwhile, I thought you guys might have some insight for me. Any kits out there that you know of?

Eric's book says C-Rok has a good kit but it's not popping up on their website. I emailed them just now to inquire whether they still build them so will wait to hear back. Just looking for a weld together pre-bent kit to weigh my options for cost and time.

Me and my son-in-law (the fabricator/welder, and he has a bender) have done preliminary brainstorming on how to build a cage by using the JCR base roof rack without the side rails (http://www.jcroffroad.com/product/RCK/XJ-RCK-B.html) as a foundation, and building the cage incorporated into my AJ's front winch bumper and JCR tire carrier bumper and/or JCR lower panel guards and JCR Stage 3 sliders. I just finished installing the new Rusty's body panels/fender flares (http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-e...covers/rustys-steel-fender-flares-xj.html),(I love them BTW - look good powder coated black to match my black paint and are very stout, but yes, they're expensive) and it seems perfectly reasonable that we could tie into these as well to cinch everything together. We would probably add horizontal pieces on top as a 'tree slider' as well and a low profile light bar for a 40" dual row LED bar, some tabs for lights in back, shovel/axe rack, and a mount for a couple Roto-Pac water jugs.

I guess I'm answering my own questions but it's experienced advice I'm looking for. Pros & Cons, ya know. What do you have, what do you like, what might you do differently and what haven't I thought about? Is it just dumb to think about 'pinning' the cage so it could be removed easily with the overhead hoist? Would that defeat the integrity of the cage?

For a rig I bought to tow my boat around Montana on vacation I've sure turned it into an addiction. Every time I add something (like the Rusty's Flares) it sparks a burning desire to do something more. Was not intended as a crawler and still isn't, but will be capable - I'm sort of 'hybridizing' it for Overland/hunting rig, crawler when needed or to try to hang with the bigger dogs when the opportunity arises .. it all started really when I bought Eric's beefed up diffs.. thanks man! Once I trimmed the fenders and added the flares it's screaming for 33s which I'll probably order tomorrow (I'm convinced I want 33 x 10.5" for more clearance than 12.5" and I'm leaning toward BFG KM2 over the Toyo MT - the only 10.5 options) then will end up with ACOS front and a 1" shackle kit for another inch lift, bringing the total to about 4.5 - 5.0. Then it'll probably require a longer shock to maximize flex.. blah, blah, blah. It's a flippin' disease as you guys already know. If it functions as good as it looks it'll be bad-ass. It's probably way prettier than most would like. Might as well try to keep it that way. Only need to bang it hard once to make it look like a beater - not that there's anything wrong with a beater if it performs. Seems like everyone who builds an XJ goes through various stages of changes/improvements.. again, an incurable disease.. but fun and satisfying, eh?

All this is in hopes of making the 4th Annual Reno Run so I can say it's not just a mall-crawler. Looking forward to the pucker factor.

Anyway, I appreciate any feedback.

Gary

Yes as everyone says JustEmptyEveryPocket Jeep. My $1800 purchase has now increased in 9 months to $6700 and you can't see it for the most part. But its in the right places, I hope.

 

[Jeep-dude]

i would like your advice with what to do with my 1997 JEEP XJ that i rolled last yesterday while driving in the UAE desert.

i have had my jeep for years and was relocated to ABU DHABI UAE so I'm attached to it and want to rebuild it or just EXO cage it.


Is it easier to just by a clean body and swap the running gear over?

 

[Bryan C.]

i would like your advice with what to do with my 1997 JEEP XJ that i rolled last yesterday while driving in the UAE desert.

i have had my jeep for years and was relocated to ABU DHABI UAE so I'm attached to it and want to rebuild it or just EXO cage it.


Is it easier to just by a clean body and swap the running gear over?

ouch, tough break there. The answer to your question is a hard one. Depends on lots of things. How easy is it to find another XJ? What kind of fab tools and fabrication ability you have. How much welding was done on your old rig? From your pic it looks like it should be easy to swap over axles and wheels onto a new rig and get back to the dunes to have some fun.

 

[CAJJ93XJ]

yeah that's one that I would probably say goodbye to. if you were rock crawling you could easily put a hi-lift in the front and push the roof back out. then hammer it until a windshield fits. but it looks like you enjoyed keeping it pretty clean and that jeep will never be the same again without some really extensive work

 

[Jeep-dude]

Thanks for the advice, I shipped this XJ with me from Portland OR, it would be a shame to scrap it after all these years :bawl: . i put the XJ in a body shop to see what can be done and if it can be turned it into a buggy.

I encourage all those out there to install an eco cage, i was lucky to escape with some bruises, scuffs with internal bruises. The jeeps ceiling is what did the most damage.

 

[DocMoe]

The middle east strikes again...

Bummer about your Jeep but I'm glad you're ok..... Hope you find a way to keep your xj goin.

 

[smokinu]

Honestly... ericsxj/jeep450r have two of the best cage setups ive seen on the forum here in norcal. My plan is to go the 450r route with a halo and apiller protection and tie in the rocker bars. And the rest of the cage internal. This seems to be the best route when trying to keep it daily driveable. With out a crap load of tube on the outside.

 

[BigKintheXJ]

Yeah dude, glad you came out ok, whenever i see xj's roll the drivers side caves in like that. I always think "damn that dude got crushed." hell, Id plate the frame rails while its still like that, put in a few good cross-members, cut everything above the doors out and do some cage work. looks like a buggy to me. But of course I cant see the other damage that was done. Problem with caging a rig like that though is that the unibody has been severely compromised. You'd really need to do a lot of work to makes sure that the cage had a great foundation.