Indertdxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Brisbane Australia
What about a piece of flex pipe...it will prolong the life of the system!
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Exhaust woes
- Thread starter mattbred
- Start date
Axle
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Midwest USA
I did a complete exhaust, including downtube, converter, piping, clamps, muffler for 150 US. The only bit of cutting-welding-fabrication required was taking apart the 4-bolt square bracket thing, that originally holds the downtube to the converter to the vehicle, to reuse the flange on a new pipe to go to the new converter. You can skip this step but then the converter costs an extra 30-50 dollars to be a "bolt-on" replacement. Local shop wanted 400+ to do the job not including the downtube. I probably spent 4 hours on it. The only thing I have not done is a proper tailpipe over the rear axle. I have the pipe but have not tried the bender on it yet.
If I could figure out the picture-thingie I could upload a shot of it.
If I could figure out the picture-thingie I could upload a shot of it.
Exhaust shops want $140 to fix it with a random truflo muffler.
If I went with the catback Super Turbo, could I do it myself theoretically? How do I deal with the no-cat situation.. Would I need a new pipe to replace the test pipe?
Also how does the Super Turbo sound compared to stock, flowmaster 40, etc?
I'm thinking about just buying a super turbo 2 1/4" inlet&outlet and getting the shop to install it & their own tailpipe for around $150.
If I went with the catback Super Turbo, could I do it myself theoretically? How do I deal with the no-cat situation.. Would I need a new pipe to replace the test pipe?
Also how does the Super Turbo sound compared to stock, flowmaster 40, etc?
I'm thinking about just buying a super turbo 2 1/4" inlet&outlet and getting the shop to install it & their own tailpipe for around $150.
all you need is a hack saw and a 9/16 wrench to do it yourself. a sawzall would be better and faster, but if you dont have one, a hack saw will work.
from the picture on the first page here is what you do.
cut the pipe, where it looks like the cat should be.
get length of pipe that fits over the cut pipe and extends to the muffler you buy, you may need an adapter from the pipe to muffler. u bolt clamps your connections.
hard part will be removing the old muffler from tailpipe. i would buy new tail pipe if you cant figure out how to cut the tail pipe off. new is about $20.
connect tail pipe to muffler with ubolt clamps.
exhausts are very, very easy to do on the xj bcause you dont need to make any bends and all the exhaust parts(except the tailpipe) can be easily found at autozone or any other chain auto store. i had to do a little bit of driving around to find a place that had the tailpipe in stock.. if you buy the right parts its as easy as putting a puzzle together.
ive replaced(cat back) on my 89 twice now and it has never cost more than $60.
from the picture on the first page here is what you do.
cut the pipe, where it looks like the cat should be.
get length of pipe that fits over the cut pipe and extends to the muffler you buy, you may need an adapter from the pipe to muffler. u bolt clamps your connections.
hard part will be removing the old muffler from tailpipe. i would buy new tail pipe if you cant figure out how to cut the tail pipe off. new is about $20.
connect tail pipe to muffler with ubolt clamps.
exhausts are very, very easy to do on the xj bcause you dont need to make any bends and all the exhaust parts(except the tailpipe) can be easily found at autozone or any other chain auto store. i had to do a little bit of driving around to find a place that had the tailpipe in stock.. if you buy the right parts its as easy as putting a puzzle together.
ive replaced(cat back) on my 89 twice now and it has never cost more than $60.
Thanks for the advice! With the clamps does the exhaust leak at all? That's one thing with getting a shop to weld it is it won't leak, but that sure is a heck of a lot cheaper than the labour costs. I was thinking about buying the catback dynomax from summitracing for 99 bucks, then all I need to worry about is the part from the muffler to the cat.
Well I bought the Dynomax Super Turbo cat-back, and after installing it tonight I'm a little dissapointed.
With my old muffler, if you were idling through town around 1500 RPM's, and got on the gas, you would hear a really nice but not too loud growl. Now that growl is gone and has been replaced by a super quiet bassy tone that doesn't change until you get above 3000 RPM's.
Will the sound change at all? It cost me $180 (in Canada) and I don't like to be dissaponted after spending that amounts of money..
With my old muffler, if you were idling through town around 1500 RPM's, and got on the gas, you would hear a really nice but not too loud growl. Now that growl is gone and has been replaced by a super quiet bassy tone that doesn't change until you get above 3000 RPM's.
Will the sound change at all? It cost me $180 (in Canada) and I don't like to be dissaponted after spending that amounts of money..
- Location
- on the beach in Ocean View, VA
I don't think it's gonna change much ('til it's worn out again). These things were really quiet when new and unless you paid for something designed to make more noise, it'll prolly stay just as quiet for long time. Walker does make a direct fit glasspacked muffler that can be installed if it's putting you to sleep!
Serveck
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- cumberland, maine
exhausts are not hard at all, if you lifted your heep then doing muffler work is like a walk in the park. i replaced my muffler on the civic (rust hole) in about 45 minutes (had to use a grinder to cut the bolts which is why it took so long). its very simple, undo bolts, take it off hangers, bolt new one in and your done.
89CherokeePioneer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Massachusetts
I saw someone said to use a Hacksaw for this. You can, but it sucks. I remember the first time my friend suggested that, and I said screw it and bought a sawz-all.
You can get a leakfree exhaust with clamps, provided theres not alot of play. If your cranking down too hard to make a pipe fit thats clearly bigger than the other, no go.
You can get a leakfree exhaust with clamps, provided theres not alot of play. If your cranking down too hard to make a pipe fit thats clearly bigger than the other, no go.
mattbred said:
cut the new muffler out and buy what you had before and replace it. so when you punch it going through town it doesnt sound good?
i have found that putting more than $60 into the exhaust on my 89 is a total waste of money. the last catback with a a nice walker muffler that i put on this summer was only $60. putting an exhaust on an 89 with store bought parts is almost too easy to install.
Um, I did buy them seperately. And I did install them myself.89xj said:
The muffler was 80 bucks, the tailpipe was 57, plus the clamps, a reducer, and tax etc came to around 170. I don't get what you mean?
It was still tricky to install because of the pipe the previous owner put in to replace the cat. It wasn't exactly like the factory cat should be so the muffler didn't align up that well.
Also the old muffler was a no-name brand.
mattbred said:
"Well I bought the Dynomax Super Turbo cat-back, and after installing it tonight I'm a little dissapointed."
this didnt sound like you bought it seperatly, sounded like you bought a catback system already put together.
if those are the prices you have to pay, your right, its down right robbery.
89xj said:
Everything came seperately. The muffler, tailpipe, clamps etc were all seperate from eachother, but together formed a cat-back system which I needed (my tailpipe was toast).
And trust me, that's nothing. This was with a big discount I get at the store. The other shops wanted $220+.
Canada sucks sometimes
