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Engine Tone

What would bend or crack a flex plate? Maybe it might be bent or be damaged when bolting the tranny to the motor. I´ve stretched transfer case chains, broken U-joints, bent drive shafts and even twisted axles without damaging a flex plate.
The only way I´ve managed to twist them up, is to physically damage them when sitting a motor on the floor and the flex plate catching a wood block (or something). Or from getting the tires spinning and developing some serious torque and having traction suddenly catch (but not in an XJ).
If you´ve seriously abused your XJ lately, maybe the flex plate is cracked or bent.
Guess it´s possible when the motor and tranny were matched back up, the flex plate was bent and the bolts straightened it out some and the stress finally caused a crack.
I have seen the bolts back out of the flex plate and cranckshaft on numerous occasions. I´ve gotten in the habit of reusing the flex plate bolts only once or at the most twice (they stretch). Loc Tite helps, but isn´t a total cure. I´ve even drilled tiny holes in the bolts and wired the flex plate bolts together so they couldn´t back out. I have seen the holes in the flex plate stretched a bit also, but it never really caused any problems.
If the flex plate is cracked, chances are it´s sprung and taking out the torque converter bolts, will let you see the warp.
The harmonic balancer is three peices, the outer ring, a rubber ring and the inner ring. You can see the rubber being pressed out of the front and/or a wobble in the assembly.
The six banger is a pretty smooth motor, but when a cylinder or two is acting up they do have balance problems. Seems to be worse when number 2 or 5 is acting up.
My last vibration, was when I installed a spark plug boot (number 2), I pressed a little too hard and pushed the contact up into the boot. Ended up with a gap between the end of the plug wire and the plug. Sure enough vibrated, was worse (in the RPM range) right were the tranny wanted to shift.
 
Hey i was messin with the rotor under the distributoir cap and it has a bit of play right to left. To my knowledge it has alway had this fraction of a mm movement...is this normal ?

Pete
 
Well guys i have given up..finally..lol
I have additionlly checked the harmonic balancer for play again and rechecked the spark wires for order and spark.

I have oponed the flywheel inspection area and rechecked the wheel and it seems as solid as it can be.

Tomorow i think i am gonna drop the jeep at the dealer and have them look at it as they actually want the least to look at it. I guess we will take it from there. I just hope they dont blame the noise and everything on the 4wd conversion.

Pete
 
Well the dealership called me up and said the bellhousing bolts are not the correct ones and a few are missing. Now i am not sure but after i completed my 4wd conversion every bolt that came off was used...But anyway they sid it would cost 170 total to fix the prob...so i told them to do it....My question here is do u think this is a plausable situation ?

Pete
 
I'm not sure about the wrong bellhousing bolts being your vibration problem. I don't see how a missing or wrong bellhousing bolt could cause this. I've broke complete corners off of bellhousings before and never had the vibration that you're having. I have also broke them almost completely in two...and that DID cause some major problems...LOL.

Maybe they're talking about your flex-plate bolts. If one or more of them .... located closely together ... were very different in weight compared to the other ones. Otherwise, I'd see no reason ... other than clearance issues ... that the bolts would matter too much. I have seen flexplates crack between the bolts .... from one bolt to another. This caused the plate to have too much flex/play, and even to vibrate at certain rpm's. I've seen lots of backed out flexplate bolts that have caused anything from a screeching, scratching noise ...... and I've even seen them imitate a full-blown bottom-end knock.

I've had an exhaust/mechanical auto/truck shop ... for 7 out of the last 11 years and I've replaced many "NEW" parts ... and had to take those "NEW" parts back ... because they were BAD too ! I've found this to be especially true with ignition/electrical parts. They are the parts that I've had the most experiences with "NEW" failures. I'm never surprised, anymore, when I replace a sensor, fuel-pump, cap/rotor button, switches and relays and I find out that the "NEW" part is bad/junk too. If I know of a good way to do so, I usually test these items, before installing them.

I've tried switching from AutoZone, to Advance AutoParts, to Napa, to the Dealerships .... and back again. I've received bad "new" parts from all of them at one time or another. Autozone happened to be the one where I got the highest # of bad parts from. But, I probably also used their parts an average of 30% more often than the other places too.

I guess what I'm saying is that when troubleshooting a problem nowadays, I don't overlook some of the items that I've replaced or that have been recently replaced .... just because they are "NEW". I've made that mistake before ... and spent hours tracking it down only to find a bad "NEW" part. Nothing makes me madder .... LOL. GOOD LUCK ... and I hope they don't gouge you...some do...some don't.

Just my .02 cents
Aron
 
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Well i asked two or three times to make sure and the guy said the bellhousing bolts. I asked further and he said something about the bolts going between the bellhousing and the tranny. What makes no sense to me is it was working flwlessly for about a month after the conversion b4 this problem came about.

I am pretty sure the flexplate bolts i used are correct.

I guess we will just have to wait and see, tom.

Pete
 
I had a real high idle at one point and it ended up being a vacuum leak. The intake need retorqed. Torqed and all is good now. Just another idea.
Good Luck !
 
I just picked up the jeep and it seems like its back to normal... THe invoice says something along the lines with bellhousing bolts loose. I am for sure gonna drive it again tom, but i am pretty sure its fine....I dont think my mind is playin games with me.

Pete
 
Was wondering if any one seemed as surpised as i was that bellhousing bolts turned out to be the prob ? Guess they got loose from the conversion ...

Pete
 
Just had the same situation on my 90 XJ 4L...vibration at 1800-2500rpm but with a slight ticking thoughout the rev range. The ticking lead me underneath to the bellhousing where I discovered that a bolt was actually MIA while another was completely unthreaded just sitting in there! Surprising to say the least considering it's been over two years since I stuffed that engine in there.
 
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