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Edge Trail Jammer, Who has the best price?

92westshady

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Newark, DE
I am looking to scrape together the cash to get an Edge Trail Jammer setup. I have read some reviews and searched the site. I know some members will say it is a waste of money or way over priced but both the JP and Rockcrawler reviews show real dyno gains of 20HP or so and 2 seconds in 0-60 times.

I agree at $990 it is a bit pricey and components pieced together could be cheaper but I like the idea of a complete system with the program module that has been tuned together. I also found the system on 4wheelonline.com for $655, at that price it is becoming more realistic and priced similarly to other intakes and bored throttle bodies. Anyone seen the Intake, Throttle Body and Module kit for less than $650?
 
92westshady said:
I know some members will say it is a waste of money or way over priced

Some members? I can honestly say that nearly all the members will say its a waste, myself included. Thats a boat load of money. I can understand that you want something that is tuned "together" but I don't think you will notice the difference. The stock computer adapts quite well to mods as long as the fuel injectors aren't too small.

Almost $1000 for 20 HP? You can buy a stroker kit for less than that and gain a lot more than 20 HP. http://www.rpmmachine.com/amc-stroker-kit-4l.shtml
 
Total waste dude, show some creativity and come up with your own stuff..
Total rip off.. maybe for $400 with the TB but not almost $1000 for it.. your literally putting money in there pockets.. like around oh 650$ a unit maybe...

No thanks..
 
Comming from a "member" I would say you could piece togather a system for less than the $650 (best price I have seen it at). I don't think a cone filter flows that much better than a good clean stock style filter, and you can have a T/B boared for about $60 at most machine shops. If I was looking for somthing like that I would just get the programmer, have my T/B bored, use a good filter in the stock box, and try some of the good Dr.'s tips for isolating the hot air from the intake system. I have a thermometer in my air box, and it regulerly gets 120*+ in there on hot days in town. Out on the highway it won't be much higher than the ambent temp.
 
After further review I think I can piece together a more reasonable system for around $300. I am looking at the Rusty's intake kit (K&N filter, adapter and Throttle Body Spacer) and getting a bored 62mm throttle body off of ebay. I am starting to think from what I have read that the module is a bogus black box item anyway.

j99xj - A stroker kit sounds bad ass, but what does it cost to have that sucker installed after the $850 purchase price? I think I am a competent back yard mechanic but I don't think I want to go tearing apart the top end or bottom or whatever end of my engine I would need to to install those parts. And what kind of undue strain on engine components and reliability does a kit like that put on a perfectly good 4.0L with 50K miles on the clock?

aroncull - I am all for homebrew setups but I don't think I want a HomeDepot intake on my daily driver and I don't think my bench vise and die grinder are gonna add any performance gains to my throttle body. So, what kind of creativity do you have to other that can give me 20hp?

scoobyxj - Pardon my ignorance but who is the Dr. and can you point me to his tips?

Thanks for shedding some light guys, I appreciate it.
 
92westshady said:
After further review I think I can piece together a more reasonable system for around $300. I am looking at the Rusty's intake kit (K&N filter, adapter and Throttle Body Spacer) and getting a bored 62mm throttle body off of ebay. I am starting to think from what I have read that the module is a bogus black box item anyway.

aroncull - I am all for homebrew setups but I don't think I want a HomeDepot intake on my daily driver and I don't think my bench vise and die grinder are gonna add any performance gains to my throttle body. So, what kind of creativity do you have to other that can give me 20hp?

scoobyxj - Pardon my ignorance but who is the Dr. and can you point me to his tips?

It's me and I'm here. :D
I'm all for homebrew mods too so I did as many as I could. I like to get the most bang for my buck and I'm happy to help others do the same.
I've had my homebrew FIPK for more than 4 years and 55k miles and it's still holding up fine.
Even when I had my 62mm bored TB done (before I did the Mustang 65mm TB conversion), it was a cheap job. I had a spare stock TB so I stripped it apart, took the bare piece to a machine shop, asked the lathe operator to bore it out to 62mm, and made my own 62mm diameter throttle butterfly out of 1mm thick aluminium plate. It worked great but after I built my stroker, I wanted something bigger so that's where the Mustang TB came in.
The module that comes with the Edge Trail Jammer kit is nothing more than a clone of the JET chip. It merely alters the output signal coming from the TPS to the ECU. The result is better part throttle response but that's about it.
Rusty's intake, TB spacer, high-flow cat, and 2.5" cat-back are very good value. If you add these together with a 62mm TB from e-bay, you'll get a lot of bang for not much buck and that's what hotrodding's really all about.
$1000 for 20hp from the Edge Trail Jammer kit? I don't think so.
 
Hey thanks for all the guidance guys. Dr. Dyno I checked out your web site, very informative, thanks for the words of wisdom as well. I think I am gonna skip the chip for now, I tend to think any gains from its new mapping will get absorbed by the lag of the auto-trans anyway.

So is the general consensus that the Hi-Flow filter is what really gives you the boost in throttle response or is there any noticable benefit to spending extra for a complete K&N FIPK or AirRaid or AEM Brute Force?
 
Speedomotive have an identical kit for $675. I wouldn't call it cheap because it's really a basic kit consisting of 258 crank, 258 rods, ARP rod bolts, cast pistons, rings, and rod/main bearings. By the time you've added all the other bits needed to complete the stroker build (oil pump, timing set, cam/lifter kit, larger injectors, harmonic balancer, freeze plugs, gasket sets, etc.), the total cost is considerably higher.
Back on topic, a proper cold air intake with the highest flowing filter possible combined with a bored TB and TB spacer will improve throttle response tremendously. Here's my idea of a proper cold air intake and yes, it's mine:

http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/FIPK.html

Why spend $250+ to buy one when you can make your own for a fraction of that and take pride in a job well done?
 
The Dr. is right. Pass the Edge Trail Jammer up. I found it for sale on eBay with an AEM intake and got both for 400, sold the AEM so I was left with the jammer for $200 pretty good deal but it was weak. i was expecting alot more out of it for the prices it sells for. The Check engine light stayed on to because of the altering of the signals to the ECM. Nothing runs smooth as stock and thats what i'm all about a good long lasting smooth running engine.
 
Since this post i have gone through a couple different setups. I purchased a Rusty's Intake Tube and AEM Dryflow filter and fabricated a splash guard for the setup.

Then I bought a bored throttle body and matching spacer and ran this for a while.

After a few months I came across a Trail Jammer throttle body and programmer on a local forum for $160 and have been running this for the last couple of months now. Personally I like the Trail Jammer setup a lot so far. The throttel body has great response off the line and I feel the progammer gives you a real boost around 4000rpm, that isn't present without.

I callled Edge about the engine light. If you get the check engine light you need to use the adapter pigtails that come with the kit, the directions weren't very clear. These pigtails switch the wire connections to match the '99 and later 4.0L map sensors. Once you reset the computer the engine light goes off. It also doesn't hurt to reset your computer using the factory ECU reset procedure every once in a while anyway.
 
I tried this set up. 92westshady is absolutely right about the pigtails. You have to use both of them too. The directions on that part of the instal could be better. I ended up disconnecting the box because the jeep ran better without it. You have to really mash on the throttle to get much difference, and I am burning enough gas as it is. Expect to see the box appear soon on ebay.
 
It is a well know fact that the Jeep 4.0L is a low end torque beast from the factory. If you think any bolt on is going to dramatically increase your power all across the RPM range you are sadly mistaken. All intake related bolt-ons only increase HP and torque at the upper RPM range and actually most times reduce it at the low end if anything. To translate, this means that yes, the only time you are gonna really notice a difference is during wide open throttle, pedal to floor driving. In fact as far as I know the modules, power commanders and mad adjusters of the world for the Jeep 4.0L don't do anything until you are above 4000rpms at wide open throttle at this point they up the voltage to your ECU which in turn bumps up your injectors duty cycle a bit.

So what does an intake and throttle body do for you?
1. Eases maintenance. - I think open air filters help your engine breathe better and I like being able to clean my filter rather than replace it.
2. Increase Intake Noise - Factory intake is designed to be efficient and quiet. If you like quiet intake, an aftermarket intake of any kind is not for you.
3. Increases Throttle Response. - I find this to be true but I guess it depends on your definition of throttle response. I define it as making the throttle feel more accurate, precise and some might call it even more abrupt on and off.

My setup also reduced a weird lag or RPM drop I would get cruising at about 50mph with the stock setup. Stock, I would step on the gas a bit in a given gear and the RPM would jump up, then drop down, it was very annoying. I now feel like get some control and acceleration within the gear range without the tranny hopping gears all the time. Be sure to adjust your transmission cable properly too, I found this to have a big affect on driving feel.

Keep in mind if you want real power from your Jeep there are only 3 things you can do. Stroke, Charge or Swap!

If you want to restore lost power due to mods and big tires, swap gears don't start bolting thinks on to the engine and if you want more control of the power you have get a manual transmission.

This is all just opinion but it is what it is from my experience. I can tell you I like to experiment and try things for my self to gain personal experience. I can honestly say I like my setup now but I would love it if I could make it a bit more quiet. A high flow, non-oiled, factory replacement filter like the AEM dry-flow I am running would be ideal.
 
92westshady said:
1.
My setup also reduced a weird lag or RPM drop I would get cruising at about 50mph with the stock setup. Stock, I would step on the gas a bit in a given gear and the RPM would jump up, then drop down, it was very annoying. I now feel like get some control and acceleration within the gear range without the tranny hopping gears all the time. Be sure to adjust your transmission cable properly too, I found this to have a big affect on driving feel.
2.
A high flow, non-oiled, factory replacement filter like the AEM dry-flow I am running would be ideal.
1.
that would be the torque converter locking back up. when you let off the gas the tc unlocks and step back on it the tc lock back up, that way the rpms fall back down that is the tc locking up.
2.
i didnt know that AEM made a dry-flow replacement filter or do you have the cone filter?
 
Thanks good input about the torque converter.

No AEM does not a have a factory replacement at this time as far as I know. I am currently running the AEM cone version that comes with their TJ intake but I purchased just the filter from Summit Racing to go with my Rusty's intake tube.

I wish they did, I like a dry hi-flow filter but I would like to go back to my stock air box. I could go with K&N or Fram Air Hog factory replacement or something like that but I don't like oiled filters and the way they have the potential to suck oil into your intake and gum up your throttle body.

Does anyone make a dry hi-flow factory replacement similar to the AEM filters?
 
92westshady said:
Does anyone make a dry hi-flow factory replacement similar to the AEM filters?
no not yet thats why i asked i thought they did i didnt know about if they do i will buy one though maybe we all should write some emails to AEM
 
I agree I will send them an email right away. Don't know if it will do much but it is worth a try, maybe others have already requested and we could add to the push.
 
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