Dreaded Newb Post - Lift Question

[NEOhioHick]

I already have a brand new set of 32's that were going to be used on a YJ, so that's what I'll be using. My apologies for not being able to find what I was looking for using the search, but really, what's worse, a newb asking a question or people whining about a post that may be repetitive, don't read or reply if your that bent about it. :yap:

 

[tomcat]

Don't forget to add brake lines, upper control arms, and a good trackbar.

In the end, buying the RE 4.5" lift will cost less than buying the 3.5" kit and adding shackles. Companies are cheap, if you didn't need that junk to run safely and stable at 4.5" of lift, RE would not include them.

you can run 4.5" without upper control arms. ask me how I know. you can also re-drill the trackbar axle side bracket if you need to. i also ran with brake line drop brackets. i have since added longer hoses, and a real adjustable trackbar, but stock upper arms still remain.

 

[cal]

you can run 4.5" without upper control arms.

You can use chunks of wooden 2x4 for rear blocks too, or even marry your sister, but neither is a good idea.

you can also re-drill the trackbar axle side bracket if you need to.

That does not address the fact the TRE at the top of the trackbar will be maxed out of travel at ride height, and overextended with droop. Once that TRE breaks .. well, it's not pretty.

i also ran with brake line drop brackets.

Considering longer brake lines are like $12 .. why?

i have since added longer hoses, and a real adjustable trackbar

Excellent!

but stock upper arms still remain.

Well, one you load up the front end good and they taco on you, you will wish otherwise. Just beacuse it hasn't screwed you yet does not mean it won't.

 

[troy6187]

i would have to agree with cal on most everything he said. but cal, i think you need to keep in mind that us east coasters dont have the rocks that you do. i have tacoed stock uppers and lowers but im harder on my mj than most people.
do it right the first time and you will be much happier. i learned the hard way about that as did most people that are telling you that.

 

[cal]

i think you need to keep in mind that us east coasters dont have the rocks that you do.i have tacoed stock uppers and lowers but im harder on my mj than most people.

Exactly my point, you don't have the rocks and have still taco'd stock uppers.

You don't have to be particularly hard on your rig to do it, just unlucky. I think statistically, we all get unlucky sometime.

Excluding of course body panels, I think wheeling on the rocks probably has a lower carnage factor. You're moving slower, its dry, lots of traction, limited application of throttle.. Thats not to say axles don't break, but when you're talking 40" tires it doesnt matter if its wet or dry

 

[emr1101]

Um What? Rustys makes very good lifts ive beat the crap out of rustys stuff and still works good. What problems have you had?

I would agree that Rubicon Express makes the best lift for the XJ if you have the money go with them

rustys is garbage i wouldn't suggest them, nice and squeeky. also their trackbars suck balls. rubicon express's flex insanely too.

 

[Bent]

You searched and couldnt find the answers to that question?

Search harder and read the sticky on how to search.

I’m not trying to bust your chops, but, search harder and read, read, read. I spent over a year here trying to wear the search button out before I did my first lift. One mod usually effects some thing else, etc., etc. If you are just after the lifted look for larger tires and mall crawling then the cheapest thing you can find or come up with will be fine. If you plan on wheeling your rig, spend time researching what best fits your needs, current and future. Mods get to be expensive enough with out redundant spending.

 

[NEOhioHick]

I’m not trying to bust your chops, but, search harder and read, read, read. I spent over a year here trying to wear the search button out before I did my first lift. One mod usually effects some thing else, etc., etc. If you are just after the lifted look for larger tires and mall crawling then the cheapest thing you can find or come up with will be fine. If you plan on wheeling your rig, spend time researching what best fits your needs, current and future. Mods get to be expensive enough with out redundant spending.

I understand, I don't want to spend my money foolishly (since I don't have a lot) and would be fine on a 3.5 lift with 31's but, I already have new 32's, so I may as well use them. My rig will get wheeled, but most of the time it will be a daily driver. I will continue to search, I just couldn't seem to find the exact answer I needed until I asked. I promise to find the rest of my info with searches, LOL!

 

[Darky]

I found a lot of info, but nothing very conclusive. As I mentioned, I have anew set of 32's, but I don't want to shell out the big $$$ right off for a 4.5, my question was answered though. Probably RE 3.5, will spacers and shackles for an inch more (as long as the arms accomodate it) the SYE and CV driveshaft will come before it all so when I add the spacers and shackle for the extra inch, no worries. Thanks for the help!!

Just do the 4.5" kit up front. I bought the DPG/RE 4" kit and wish I hadn't. It's a decent kit, not at all right for what I wanted. I'm at about 5.5" total height, the kit (RE 3.5" plus spacers) with 4.5" RE coils instead of the 3.5", and about an inch of spacer up front with 1.5" shackles out back. The 3.5" kit does not include upper control arms. You will want them. The lowers are no longer than stock, they just have a slight offset to help with angles. Don't do it halfway. Buy the full 4.5" if you're gonna go that high anyways.

 

[cal]

The lowers are no longer than stock, they just have a slight offset to help with angles.

I may misunderstand, but if you're talking about the RE lowers they are .250" longer and about 250 times stronger than stock.

 

[Darky]

Yeah, definitely a lot stronger, very beefy, I've already dragged em a couple times (and not even really had my rig in anything too tough yet) but held side by side next to the stock arms, they matched up almost perfectly, hole to hole. The biggest difference was the slight offset. This is for the 3.5" arms, I don't know if the 4.5 uses longer arms or whatnot.