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Doorless mod/removable doors

Wrench Monkey what was the cost of all that. I would love that for winter wheeling. Help keep you semi warm and dry without loosing the visibility gained by taking the doors off.


Parakeet
 
Wrench Monkey what was the cost of all that. I would love that for winter wheeling. Help keep you semi warm and dry without loosing the visibility gained by taking the doors off.


Parakeet

It was almost three years ago (spring '06), but I was sure I got the lexan for about $85.

Now, I'm seeing it for $200:
http://www.professionalplastics.com/LEXANSHEET9034

The angle iron is cheap, about $20 for the 16' I used:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=9905&step=4&showunits=inches&id=276&top_cat=849

The pipe insulation is only about a buck a piece, at Lowes or the Depot.


That said, I don't think you'd be happy runnin' 'em year round.

For one, they don't seal all that well. They keep "most" of the rain out, but they're really drafty. They'd work as a windbreak, but not for keeping the heat in very well.

For another, the lexan does scratch badly. Wheeling in the woods would be bad enough, but if you had to try to scrape ice off of them, you'd ruin 'em.

That's why I revert to steel doors Thanksgiving to Easter...

Robert
 
If I did that it wouldn't be a year round thing but I would take them when I wheeled in the winter. I had my doors off but never did the mod. Stupid me....:twak: Oh well thats a project for after the DIY Beadlocks and other stuff.


Parakeet
 
Seems like everytime i try and start on this project i always get side tracked....like trying to put in my t-case drop kit...but the holes won't like up......

-PJ-
 
Well seeing as i have the evening to my self...and the shop too...i decided to finally do this mod to my jeep...Will post pictures by tomorrow but unlike you all said everything is going smoothly (knock on wood) no problems with the torx and such...but until i post pictures...

LATER~

-PJ-
 
door2830.jpg
door4791.jpg
 
BTW, i run a different type of setup for the doors now, they sagged alot before, now theyre almost back to stock. It was a pain though, i run bigger bolts that are not threaded (they had a few inches of solid metal before they started threading, i just cut off the threaded area), the reason is is that the threads will wear down, thus making them loose. Also the hing on the body is a certain size, but on the door the hinge is smaller, so i had to drill out the hinge on the door to the same size. Then bought the correctly sized bolt, its almost perfect. Then yanked up on the doors to help it fit a wee bit better, and before anyone yells at me they do that at Jeep dealerships body shops.
 
I've seen you blast this practice in thread after thread, but I just don't quite follow what you think the problem is.

How does it harm the unibody to have less weight hanging on it?

Robert
 
You really should have some sort of door on the rig (tube, half etc) to protect the A and B pillars. Once you crush these doors will never go back on without a lot of work and skill. I run a half door, just covers up to the top of my leg and when I sit back in the seat it extends just far enough forward to cover the rib cage. I get a lot of additional visibility. The biggest benefit is being able to look down over sharp drops as you approach them. Unless you have no situational awareness or feel for tire placement it doesnt really help that much for tire placement, the front left is the easy one.

I cut the bottom off of the hinges, shortened the lower one and sharpened the ends for easy alignment, just as shown in the first set of photo's on page 1 of this thread. I welded a 1/2 x 2" channel inside the door and folded the skin over this. Makes the door a LOT stiffer and give a little impact protection.

My hasnt folded like a taco....

misctosort.jpg

IMG_0093.jpg

John
 
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I've seen you blast this practice in thread after thread, but I just don't quite follow what you think the problem is.

How does it harm the unibody to have less weight hanging on it?

Robert

x2, why would it be bad for the unibody?
 
i just finished mine yesterday and now i resent driving with the doors on
 
You are patient, you are skilled and you are welcome.

John

Now THAT is funny! "Patient..." ... Ah, funny stuff...

Equal parts "determined" and "desperate," more like, with just enough "clever" and "lucky" to pull it off... :D

Robert
 
I've seen you blast this practice in thread after thread, but I just don't quite follow what you think the problem is.

How does it harm the unibody to have less weight hanging on it?

Robert

x2, why would it be bad for the unibody?

If any of you have done descent doorless mod research you would know this, I just didnt want door fitment to become a problem so I didnt wheel it with the doors off. Id like to get some frame stiffeners in there, then i might be more apt to wheel it doorless.
 
Um, what?

You said that taking the doors off was bad for the unibody.

I still don't understand why you'd think that.

Robert
 
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