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yeah. but then you have to pop of the kick pane and undo the connectors with the little locking clips, and pop out the grommet that they feed through and pass each of the connectors through the now sharp edged hole and not lose or damage the grommet. every time you want to take the doors off. flat trailer connectors were much easier for me, YMMV.
Yeah, I had my kick panel off for a while and my Heep would just quit for no good reason. After a whole lot of frustration, my mechanic told me that the big power connection under there was loose, and if i re-installed my kick panel it would hold it in.
DOH! That never even occured to me, i had the panel off for over a year before the problem started. Bah. My mechanic loves me.
Check out the link. If your hinges look like in the pictures, you are set I know that it won't work on a 2000, so the transition year was somewhere betwwen 1998-2000. I don't know if the change was made in the middle of the production year or not.
go to the nearest tractor supply buy everything on the shelf. wait a week for them to restock then do it again, make sure you color code them so when you put the doors back on the connectors go to the right place.
I have a two door with power windows. i ditched the power locks. i got away with three connectors on the driver side and two on the passenger. i epoxied them into a block so they all hook at once, but it's a pain so i wouldn't reccommend it. just take each connector set plugged in to its mate and give a quick spray of whatever colors you have laying round.
ultimately the plan is to cut these doors down for half doors and then find a set of cleanish manual wind doors for the rest of the year. that would let me just have a two pole flat conector on each door. and have windows that rollup with just one hand. but i live in wny and clean doors of any sort are rare, so it's a back burner project.
Well I did it, cut up the junk door and made a half door. Not sanded or painted yet but the fab work is done.
I welded a channel to the outer door skin (inside the door) and then folded over and welded. Did this all the way around and then pinched off the window slop above the door handle and welded it closed too. Very stiff door.
Took about 4 hours on Monday and two hours today.
Couple of notes on the hinge pins, make the lower one shorter, its a lot easier to install the doors. Chamfer the holes AND grind the pins to a point. Its can be a real hassle to install the doors if the lower pin is longer and the holes are not chamfered.
Couple of notes on the hinge pins, make the lower one shorter, its a lot easier to install the doors. Chamfer the holes AND grind the pins to a point. Its can be a real hassle to install the doors if the lower pin is longer and the holes are not chamfered.
yeah good call on the lower pin,
I made it shorder and put a pencil tip on both of them so they would just slip in the hole... works really well.
FYI on the half doors...
You are going to want that handle out of there, and the corner is going to poke you all the time.
check it out... gotta have the arm clearance.
I puled the handle out and put a electric lock actuator in the place of the handle and then I use the trailer plug for power and a button on the door to open it. (you could also get a shave kit for a hot rod) thats the same basic idea.
I'm just now doing this as well. It's let met re-align the doors.. and they fit better now than before...
I cut the plastic kick pannels so they just "pop" in and out without a screw driver (no pics)... Use the factor connectors... no big deal... trimmed the grommet so it removes easier... wrapped everything in layers of tape to protect it from the sharp metal (not an issue)...
Was told, and have found to keep the bottom pin a little longer than the top one... and angle it (ground this smooth after this cut)...
Very easy to put back on... simply pick up the door and sit on the rocker pannel with the door on your legs... and "pop" right in place... don't take 30 seconds to line up and drop on...
I kept the factor Torx bolts.. .had to heat a couple to get them loose... they work OK.
Hi Tech Light Turner Offer.
Still playing with mirrors... not happy with this yet.. the lever arm overcomes the spring... will wrap with heat shrink to stiffen it up..
One idea to keep in mind is when you cut the pins, leave the lower one about an 1/8th of an inch longer than the top one. This will let you concentrate on getting the lower pin lined up with the hole, then the top. Not having to do both at the same times makes it much easier.
I took it one step farther. I used a 1/2 inch drill bit and drilled the top of the body side of the holes to make a funnel like area to help guide the pin into the hole.
I love this idea. I'm going to do it. But, i enjoy doing trail rides, me and a couple of my buddies, in the forest trails. we can get 30 miles in some times. so where could i store the door(s) when I'm not using them. the back is full of stuff (tent, food, etc), should i put them on top of my roof rack?
what do you guys do for exterior mirrors? in california i think the cops would leave you alone about being "doorless", but i bet you'd get grief over the lack of mirrors.
I love this idea. I'm going to do it. But, i enjoy doing trail rides, me and a couple of my buddies, in the forest trails. we can get 30 miles in some times. so where could i store the door(s) when I'm not using them. the back is full of stuff (tent, food, etc), should i put them on top of my roof rack?
At one time I built a carrier that went in the receiver hitch, and carried the door by the top on the window, like a bike carrier. But someone stole it before it's first use, so I can't tell you how it worked. Build it so that is goes up as soon as possible, and very high. So that it won't catch on as much.
Ten High said:
what do you guys do for exterior mirrors? in California i think the cops would leave you alone about being "doorless", but i bet you'd get grief over the lack of mirrors.
I've seen some with mirrors that drop into the top hinge of the body, like a lot of older motorcycles have, but with a longer bolt or pin. Also, I've seen a couple that screw mirrors to the rear part of the front fender.
Like mine on my half door, but on the fender instead.
what do you guys do for exterior mirrors? in california i think the cops would leave you alone about being "doorless", but i bet you'd get grief over the lack of mirrors.
I welded four bolts to the door (drilled holes, pushed bolts through and welded them on the outside) to use a studs. I bought a cheap truck mirror at Trak Auto that bolts to studs. Pull the nuts and wheel it, put the mirror and nuts back on for highway travel. Takes all of two minutes to do (find mirror, nuts, socket and tighten).
I know that it won't work on a 2000, so the transition year was somewhere betwwen 1998-2000. I don't know if the change was made in the middle of the production year or not.
