Doing front Brakes, any good tips?

[5-90]

All good, but very, very late suggestions--11/2009. :wave:

Meh, I don't care. I never look at the date on these things anyhow! I figure it came back up because someone wanted more information, so I'll go ahead and toss it out there.

I'd rather they resurrect an old thread than start a new one anyhow - puts more answers in one place!

 

[bigalpha]

I always have a helluva time getting the calipers off and on. I know there's some special twist to remove technique but it always takes me forever.

Sucks because I have to replace my driver front caliper since it apparently isn't working (passenger front pads were 0% pad life and driver front were like 80% pad life).

 

[iwannadie]

I always have a helluva time getting the calipers off and on. I know there's some special twist to remove technique but it always takes me forever.

I always grab the bottom of the caliper and lift it up and out away from the rotor. Might help to crack open the bleeder valve to allow some fluid/pressure to escape.

When putting them back on I do the reverse of pulling them off, I put the upper part on first then tilt the lower side in place. Again, open the bleeder and spread the pads apart to clear the rotor.

 

[winterbeater]

I always grab the bottom of the caliper and lift it up and out away from the rotor. Might help to crack open the bleeder valve to allow some fluid/pressure to escape.

When putting them back on I do the reverse of pulling them off, I put the upper part on first then tilt the lower side in place. Again, open the bleeder and spread the pads apart to clear the rotor.

Pads push out without needing to crack the bleeder. And wacking the caliper back and forth a little with a hammer will take the pressure off the rotor. If you are pushing them all the way back though, like for new pads, cracking the bleeder does keep old dirty fluid from pushing back up the lines and possibly overflowing the reservoir.

 

[heyhar]

Also, check the surface where the pads ride on the knuckle. Tends to wear into grooves, which I've had hang up a pad, causing funky wear. I filled it with weld, contoured it down with a grinder, good as new.

 

[iwannadie]

Pads push out without needing to crack the bleeder. And wacking the caliper back and forth a little with a hammer will take the pressure off the rotor. If you are pushing them all the way back though, like for new pads, cracking the bleeder does keep old dirty fluid from pushing back up the lines and possibly overflowing the reservoir.

I've had calipers that don't want to come off easily and I just crack the bleeder then the came right off. Fluid definitely came out of the bleeder also when doing that. Maybe the bleeder offers less resistance for the fluid rather than pushing back up the hoses so it felt easier.

 

[5-90]

Just use a large G-clamp to collapse the piston! Work slowly (so you don't spray fluid all over from the master cylinder,) the screw ram/foot goes in through the little "window" on the outer side of the caliper onto the back of the pad. Turn slowly until it all stops, then remove the G-clamp. Et viola! the caliper should come right off!

 

[Talyn]

What I do is I use a C-clamp, and open the bleeder valve. Pushes the fluid out of the piston bore. Kind of a quick bleed.

 

[joe_peters]

Just use a large G-clamp

Is the only difference between a C-clamp and a G-clamp the string?

G string, get it? :jester:

 

[heyhar]

I like to use a 4" C clamp, with a steel bar across the piston, to keep the clamp screw from going through the back of the piston. One of these days I'll get around to a proper piston compressing tool.

 

[iwannadie]

I like to use a 4" C clamp, with a steel bar across the piston, to keep the clamp screw from going through the back of the piston. One of these days I'll get around to a proper piston compressing tool.

I use the old brake pad, it has the little metal spring that keep it seated in the caliper and I'm not worried about hurting the old pad.

 

[ehall]

I always have a helluva time getting the calipers off and on. I know there's some special twist to remove technique but it always takes me forever.

special tool and technique discussed in the FSM is stick a big flathead screwdriver between caliper and rotor and pry it off

putting them back on I push the pad (and piston) all the way down