Does running a 60 front/9" rear make sense?

[jeepme]

"toss the 44 together as booty as possible, reuse all of the parts and bolts it has had since 74 and no aftermarket and go try to kill it on the local rock piles. And I guess go from there? "

This is partly why the 44 gets a bad rap. A 44 WILL NOT last in stock form with 37" tires. A lot of people use stock shafts and u joints, run big tires, brake the shafts/joints, a then complain that the 44 is crap. If you want to go 44 and 37's you have to upgrade the shafts and u joints and drive smart.

 

[xj bmx]

"toss the 44 together as booty as possible, reuse all of the parts and bolts it has had since 74 and no aftermarket and go try to kill it on the local rock piles. And I guess go from there? "

This is partly why the 44 gets a bad rap. A 44 WILL NOT last in stock form with 37" tires. A lot of people use stock shafts and u joints, run big tires, brake the shafts/joints, a then complain that the 44 is crap. If you want to go 44 and 37's you have to upgrade the shafts and u joints and drive smart.

That's kinda what I figured, it seems a lot of JK guys run the JK 44 Beefed up on 37s with no issues. And since the plan for the 44 was super bling I didn't think it could go wrong. Then pirate happend and confused me.

Also has anyone on here had their parts cryoed? I think that may be the thing I need.

 

[jeepme]

Ya Pirate can do that my 44 has lasted me 3 years now on 37's and I am very happy with it. I drive it on the freeway to and from trails wheel all weekend and drive home.

 

[Vanimal]

Running anything larger than a 44 in the front can have its own space problems which can require some additional mods if you don't want to lift the front high and limit your upward travel.

Thanks,
Fred
Explorer 1

not true at all. I'm at 5" or so of lift, with 7" of uptravel with my d60. My 37's are the limiting factor when it comes to uptravel, and my fenders are VERY trimmed. The housing isn't even close to hitting.

 

[XJLI]

That's kinda what I figured, it seems a lot of JK guys run the JK 44 Beefed up on 37s with no issues. And since the plan for the 44 was super bling I didn't think it could go wrong. Then pirate happend and confused me.

JK44s also have bigger ujoints and a larger ring gear. the way i wheel, i know i wont have an issue with 37s on my 44 up front. can i break it? sure, you can break anything.

 

[xj bmx]

JK44s also have bigger ujoints and a larger ring gear. the way i wheel, i know i wont have an issue with 37s on my 44 up front. can i break it? sure, you can break anything.

I thought it was the JK44 was just a d30 from the knuckles out and just like a cross between a 30, 44, and 50 in the gears?

 

[xj bmx]

No wait, I think I'm thinking the rubi 44.

 

[MoparManiac]

5" or so of lift, with 7" of uptravel with my d60.

You taking into account the additional lift from the bigger axle tubes/coil mount placement?

Because there's no way I'd be able to get down to a realistic 5" of lift over stock and still have that much uptravel. My driveshaft would hit first, then the trackbar mounts/housing.

Granted I have a later model HP60.

 

[ROBZ95Xj]

You taking into account the additional lift from the bigger axle tubes/coil mount placement?

Because there's no way I'd be able to get down to a realistic 5" of lift over stock and still have that much uptravel. My driveshaft would hit first, then the trackbar mounts/housing.

Granted I have a later model HP60.

I could of had closer to 4" of up traven when I was at a true 5" of lift if I placed my upper control arm differently, but unless your running 33's or 35's your never gonna use it unless the frt is completley tubes. With 5.5" now I have maybee 2.5"-3" of uptravel and its mint but I also do very little high speed stuff

 

[Boss Cherokee]

I don't know if this was mentioned, so I'll go ahead and post it and ask for forgiveness after!
I have been running 9"s since 1992. The front has 44 outers from a full size Bronco narrowed. The only thing I have broken on the front was a long side axle 2 years ago because the spicer u-joint cap popped off and spun the axle to a snap. I run Detroit lockers on both, and finally last year, went to 35 spline rear after running 28 spline for 20 + years. On the front, I replaced the one side with a Currie hardened axle 31 spline. The driver side is still the same including the U-joint. The front axle Bronco tubing is close to 1/2" thick which I love because it's not light weight tubing of today's axles. I'm sure that has helped in axle survival. It's helped to the point that my radius arms finally broke from the torque stress of articulation on the arms. My point is if you are concerned over space and weight of the 60, run the outers of the 60 with the 9" housing and 35 spline 9" carrier up front. Then pick up another 9" for the rear and be done. 9"s are cheap in the bone yard and strong plus Currie has it all for them.
Another route you can go is, I'm assuming it's a HP 60, run the 60 in the rear and the HP 44 up front and you'll be good to go.
As far as changing axles and or housings from 44 to 60 because people have broken 44's or 9's or 30's, Well that statement should be stated after viewing video of any axle breakers driving habits! You can't drive your rig on rocks as if it were in a mud bog or King of the Hammers race. Those trucks are running high dollar moly axles and housings with unlimited spare parts. So if you wanna break just stomp on it, even the military bogies will break! Do what your budget allows you to. Your not in this to win a race your in it to have fun and get thru without issues. Good Luck I'm sure you've already made up your mind! Everyone will say the pinion height on the 9" is too low. Not so it's been working for me !

 

[Vanimal]

You taking into account the additional lift from the bigger axle tubes/coil mount placement?

Because there's no way I'd be able to get down to a realistic 5" of lift over stock and still have that much uptravel. My driveshaft would hit first, then the trackbar mounts/housing.

Granted I have a later model HP60.

no coil mounts, it has coilovers. i'm measuring frame to tube, and accounting for the difference in tube diameter.

I could of had closer to 4" of up traven when I was at a true 5" of lift if I placed my upper control arm differently, but unless your running 33's or 35's your never gonna use it unless the frt is completley tubes. With 5.5" now I have maybee 2.5"-3" of uptravel and its mint but I also do very little high speed stuff

I have 7" of uptravel with 5" of lift and 37x13.5's (toyo mt's which run big) and i use all of it without rubbing. I have stock inner fenders with only the pinch seam hammered over. Perhaps maybe i got lucky with my axle tube lengths and how much i have my axle pushed forward? In this pic, the top of the tire is about 3/4" from the body line. I could be a little off with my measurements since it depends on how i pull into my parking spot. i run an assload of valving so it settles +-a half inch or so.