Disc Break conversion

[Gojeep]

Ok new question on the prop valve. From what understand the stock prop valve is 50/50 under normal conditions and sends more to front under hard braking. Is this correct? Second question is what is the difference between the check valve and the o ring that so many say i should try removing? This i my daily driver and i dont want to do anything that jepordizes my safety on road. I have read around that if i remove the o ring the proportioning valve will deliver 50/50 to front and back and loses it's ability to differntiate pressure. Is this true or does the propotioning valve still send different pressure to front and back just at a higher pressure compared to stock? I am sorry this is going on so long but for what it's worth this thread has helped me make tremendous improvements to my braking system. thanks to all.

You are right on all accounts. Stock it is 50/50 and more to the front as pedal pressure increase under hard braking. Removing the O ring will leave it at 50/50 at all times but a failure at one end or the other will cause all loss of brakes as now the fluid can pass between the front and rear side. Better to fit a p/valve from a ZJ or just its piston and spring to get a bit more to the rear under heavy braking with the O ring still in place.

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

My brake swap goes on tomorrow.

I got the caliper adapters, calipers, and complete e-brake assemlies and cables for $180 shipped, the guy at the junkyard was super helpful.

New rotors, pads wheelstuds, banjo bolts and brake hoses added up to another $100 or so.


I'll test the calipers, and if I need new ones they're about $50 a piece...

It took some doing to get the brake parts, if someone had caught me on the right day I probably would have purchased that kit for $430....

Of course, if this works great and I don't need new calipers (they look fine, but better safe than sorry) and I did it for a little under $300 then that's great. 29 spline on open 31s here so I'm not really worried about upgrading the axle.

 

[Fred85]

^rear ZJ calipers are $32 a piece after you get the core back at Autozone

cheapest reman i could find next to ebay

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

It's ALIVE!!!!!!!!

All I can say is WOW. I went from having out of round drums with shot shoes to new 4 wheel disc. The difference is noticeable to say the least. If it were a car for on-road performance, I'd absolutely be looking for more grab in the rear brakes, but I drive in enough snow and ice that I'm not going to touch the prop. valve. I had a wheel cylinder that was prone to seizing (has happened badly enough to loop out on dry pavement), and one of the biggest reasons I went to disc was to get away from that terrifying feeling of heading downhill in snow with questionable traction and thinking that if you touch the brakes the rear will lock up....

Now that I'm on the completed side of this mod... I wouldn't have bothered with the kit. The calipers I got work great, I can see the attraction of new, but they're failrly simple, they either work or they don't... I've got the luxury of a couple hundred acres of private land where I work where I can test my XJ before subjecting the public to danger of my modded vehicle, so I decided I'd test out the ones I got from the junkyard before I spent $110 (cheapest I could find for 2 remans after core around here). If I lived in a more populated area or had to take it on public roads to test it, I probably wouldn't have taken the chance, but as it was they turned out to be fine.

I did the entire thing, new rotors and pads, 10 new longer lugstuds, for around $300, even counting the RTV for sealing back up the diff and the brake fluid for bleeding.

I'll try to make a less-biased review of it later, anyone who'd like to contact the junkyard in greensboro that was so helpful (and cheap) shoot me a PM.

 

[jeepnuts311]

any links for the teraflex kit for the dana 44, i wasnt able to find it on their website.

edit: sorry, i cant delete my post. i didnt realize that the northridge link WAS the teraflex kit.
thanks

-tim

 

[GreenGhost]

After much research, I purchased the TeraFlex DBK-J disk brake kit from a source that was much less than the prices stated above for my 91 MJ. All the parts were of very high quality, and the installation was cake, even for me. And it's not necessary (at least on my rig) to purchase the ebrake cable accessory, since all you need is two standard Ford-type slotted clevis ebrake cable fittings on the ends of your existing ebrake cables. I had enough adjustment to make my stock cables work; assume it will be the same with the XJs. Been on for over a year now, no problems. Best upgrade I ever made.

Comanche,
Do you happen to have a part number, or year/model for what the fittings came from. I tried to describe them to the guy at Napa, but he couldn't find them from my description.
Thanks for the help!

 

[comanche91]

I ordered them from Lokar here: http://www.lokar.com/interior_pages/ecables_concables.htm
p/n EC-81FC

Since I didn't have a crimper to re-attach the ebrake cable button stop and I did not want to cut the cable, I hacksawed a slot down to the hole where the wire cable goes through the clevis, opened it up just enough to slide the cable in, then squeezed it closed. Worked well. Hope this helps.

 

[Fred85]

here's a random question...

is there a way to know if you'll need longer wheel studs or not???

 

[gorp]

dos this work on the dana 44 (87)

 

[lilredwagn]

here's a random question...

is there a way to know if you'll need longer wheel studs or not???

"Need" is such a strong word... however, you will definitely want them for piece of mind, and since you have to pop the diff to get the axles out to do the change, you may as well do it when you swap the brakes.

There is enough thread contact that I will probably not swap them out until my next diff fluid change, but there is little enough contact that I definitely will swap the lugs, and in the meantime I would feel rather awkward trying to get a tire store to rotate my tires.

 

[GreenGhost]

Comanche,
Excellent! With that info I found those Lokars at Summit Racing, which is about 3 miles from my house, so I'll swing by and pick them up tomorrow. Ahh, to park on hills again!

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+%2D154924&D=%2D154924

Much thanks!

 

[Fred85]

^$30!!!!!!!????

wtf?

 

[GreenGhost]

You know, I didn't even look at the price thinking those little things couldn't cost too much. My jaw dropped a little at the checkout counter at Summit.
Still... cheaper than a new cable set up.

 

[aardvark4x4]

Do any of you guys know if the '05 Mustang rear dic brakes are a relativeley easy swap onto an XJ non C clip D35?

 

[comanche91]

^$30!!!!!!!???? wtf?

Yeah, I know, a rip. But they are heavy stainless........:laugh3:
There must be a cheaper source, but I couldn't find one. 'Course you could always wrap the cable around the ebrake arm and secure it with a cable clamp. But that's pretty lame IMHO.

 

[johnnyc]

I bought the Lokar clevises, but ended up not using them. I just used a stock ZJ cable on the short side and a KJ cable on the long side.

So if anyone wants them...

 

[XpedientJ]

I bought the Lokar clevises, but ended up not using them. I just used a stock ZJ cable on the short side and a KJ cable on the long side.

So if anyone wants them...

PM sent.....

 

[Archdukeferdinand]

here's a random question...

is there a way to know if you'll need longer wheel studs or not???

It's cheap and easy to get them (just buy 10 fronts). I got them thinking I'd return them if I thought they weren't necessary. They were definitely more confidence-inspiring than the shorter ones that had been on there.

Also, you've got to take out the axleshafts anyways, so you might as well.