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DD steering opinions...Heims or Tre's

So from all I can tell the Ruffstuff system is basiclly an inverted Y style like the factory system just heavy duty.

ylink.jpg


Is or has anyone run this on a DD? If so what did you think? Currently I'm at stock hight, but whenever I get a replacement DD, and can afford to enlarge my tire size I'll be setting close to 4"
that's an inverted t setup, not y.
 
So from all I can tell the Ruffstuff system is basiclly an inverted Y style like the factory system just heavy duty.

ylink.jpg


Is or has anyone run this on a DD? If so what did you think? Currently I'm at stock hight, but whenever I get a replacement DD, and can afford to enlarge my tire size I'll be setting close to 4"
wow, that is a nice kit! and it's really well priced. i would assume you need to buy 2 inserts to install? and it has to be otk?
 
of course I will have to move the sway bar mounts and track bar axle end mount. I think this will give me a great combo of clearance, driving geometry/response/lonogevity on the road and ease of getting parts using TREs. Total cost will be around $450-$500 what does everyone think?
I would look at the :
http://www.offroadonly.com/products/new/u-turn/

No drilling and tapping, no moving the sway bar mounts or track bar axle end mount. It is only a little bit more $. This is what I am looking at.
 
looks like it screws with steering geometry quite a bit. the akermann is going to be pretty jacked.
Great question to ask directly to Off Road Only.
 
looks like it screws with steering geometry quite a bit. the akermann is going to be pretty jacked.
I don't see it effecting ackerman but it does change the ratio so a longer pitman arm would help. You might lose some steering range with a stock pitman arm but it would also be a bit stronger due to the longer lever arm of the tie rod attachment to the knuckle.
 
I don't see it effecting ackerman but it does change the ratio so a longer pitman arm would help. You might lose some steering range with a stock pitman arm but it would also be a bit stronger due to the longer lever arm of the tie rod attachment to the knuckle.
akermann is directly related to where the tie rod ends are in relation to the line drawn through the center of the rear axle and through the front axle's kingpin/balljoint axis. those brackets are inboard and extended, the complete opposite direction from where that line is.
 
WJ swap would be stronger, with much better brakes. price should be similar, i think i have about 400-500 into mine with new ball joints and unit bearings, 1 ton TRE's steering links, etc.

Also, aluminum seems to be a better choice for a tie rod than DOM, i'm swapping my bent steel one out for a solid 7075 bar.

This is 4-500 is for the entire swap including both knuckles, pads, rotors, calipers, ball joints and unit bearings, tie rod with TREs, draglink with TREs, OTA track bar mount and extended sway bar links?
 
i dont run sway bars so no.
TRE's were 28/ea, ball joints were 34/pair new, unit bearings were 55/ea new, DOM for steering was $70, track bar bracket was $50. i have $37 into knuckles and brakes. if you want all new brakes, it would be more obviously.
I initially had it set up with stock wj steering and it was about $200 less.
 
lol hardly, you can't use a pass side wj knuckle without the driver's side. wj steering links don't work on an xj without cutting and sleeving either.
 
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