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Dave and others using Mobil1. This may be of interest to you.

crazyjim

crazyjim

NAXJA Forum User
Location
SoCal
So I was talking to Dave the other day, about Mobil1 switching from a GroupIV oil group to a cheaper, less synthetic GroupIII oil group.

Dave had mentioned someone told him the switch to GroupIII wasn't ideal for a flat tappet valve train like the XJ's have. So I decided to do some research, looking to change the type of oil I run. After reading a bunch of posts over on BITOG I ran into this. Strait from Mobil:

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Flat_Tappet_Engines.aspx


Question: Does Mobil 1 Contain the Additive for Flat Tappet Cams?I build a few engines a year as I do muscle car repairs and I have been having a lot of camshaft failures. I just read that it is because the oil no longer has the additive for flat tappet cams. Can I use Mobil 1 to break in fresh rebuilt engines of '60s and '70s tech? Is it too slippery for new ring break-in? Will it give protection on new cam and lifters?-- Frederick Neidlinger, Dover/Dover AFB, DE
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Answer: For older, flat tappet engines where wear may be more of a concern, we offer a number of oil products which are higher in phosphorus than API SM/ILSAC GF-4 oils. These include Mobil 1 15W-50, Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15W-50 (1200 ppm phosphorus), Mobil 1 0W-40 (1,000 ppm) and Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 and 10W-40 (1000 ppm). For all newer engines and flat tappet engines in normal service, API SM/ISLAC GF-4 oils are preferred for better fuel economy and for the protection of catalytic systems with lower phosphorous (800 ppm).
Click to expand...


Also from my thirdgen board:

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tech-general-engine/410992-whats-good-motor-oil.html


This is good news for me, as I'm running the Mobil1 High Milage 10W-40. So just food for thought. Unless anybody else has any better info?
 
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this was brought up a while back a few times basically un-less you run a heavy valve spring like on most strokers it shouldn't be a issue. I get conaco 15w-40 for free at work so I put it in the wifes xj, I noticed 3 things I don't like
1: oil leak that was maybe 1/2 a quart between changes is now 2-3 quarts a week went back to 20-50 and it went down to 1/2 a quart
2: oil presure was off the guage at start up and doesnt come down till after about 100 miles and then it is about 60 psi at idle. it is to high our motor was only suposed to see 60 psi at highway speeds and I do believe this is where my extra oil leak came from. again back to 20-50 and at idle im at 40psi or a hair below even when the engine is at 220 degrees and at high way speeds it is just under 60 psi
3: I noticed a lifter tick with the 15-40 in it that was and is not there with the 20-50 so I figure it wasnt doing it's job and pumping up the lifter or maybe the extra pressure over filled the lifter Im not sure
 
I run standard Valvoline 10W40, and have for my entire adult life (it keeps me regular!)
My high performance engines (mostly air cooled VW's) will get
Valvoline Racing 40.
Obviously I'm no molecular scientist and my original decision to use
Valvoline was probably made more because thier cool race car paint jobs
than any real knowledge concerning oils... but the engines I tear down
rarely show any signs of damage due to oil break down, and some of these
engines have run for good stretches above 230*.
For you engine builders out there, is running a full synthetic really worth the extra dough?
Does Valvoline High Mileage hurt our catalytic converters (assuming that Valvoline follows Mobile I's phosphorus count strategy?)
Was this a thread high jack or should I just go refill my coffee now?

:D
 
Jump This said:
I run standard Valvoline 10W40, and have for my entire adult life (it keeps me regular!)
My high performance engines (mostly air cooled VW's) will get
Valvoline Racing 40.
Obviously I'm no molecular scientist and my original decision to use
Valvoline was probably made more because thier cool race car paint jobs
than any real knowledge concerning oils... but the engines I tear down
rarely show any signs of damage due to oil break down, and some of these
engines have run for good stretches above 230*.
For you engine builders out there, is running a full synthetic really worth the extra dough?
Does Valvoline High Mileage hurt our catalytic converters (assuming that Valvoline follows Mobile I's phosphorus count strategy?)
Was this a thread high jack or should I just go refill my coffee now?

:D
Click to expand...

Since when did you care if you hi-jacked a thread.... LOL....:lecture:

I also use Valvoline and have for years. I am thinking of switching to AMSoil though and support one of our fellow members who happens to be a distributor.....
 
I like these types of topics but it is SoCal chapter thread worthy? If you are talking about the oil use in the desert... :D

I use Mobil Full synthetic 10w30 in both my vehicles. I have never switched back to conventional oil and never had a problem but then again I have never pulled apart my engine block to see how its holding up.

Going full synthetic with quality oil can hurt the pocket book vs cheaper oils but its giving me the piece of mind and that alone is worth it. Even if my piece of mind is based on flawed logic.
 
walmart was selling mobil 1 full syn 5 quart jug at 20.00 - same price fro syntec by castrol- i changed my oil for 26 plus 5 dollar filter - not bad imo

i wonder if a lot of other companies will start doing this mbil 1 style - same price but different oil?
 
I run Mobil1 in my street car but in my jeep I run Castrol GTX 20w50 mostly but Grimm talked me into using 10w40 GTX here in SoCAL:laugh3: .

I run Mobil 1 in mine because of a bit of insider info I got when I used to run with a group from a Indycar team(who was NOT sponsored by Mobil1,haha).

I too buy mine at walmart (5qt GTX $10.17) Autozone sells 4qt for $13.00
 
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I've been personally involved in two 06 LJs rounding off cam lobes. One, a good friend's at 21K, and the other, my girlfriends, at 35 K miles. Both did the breakin with whatever oil was in the Jeep, both then switched to mobile 1. My girl ran purolator pure one filters, my buddy fram filters. Both rounded off lobes on the came, and flattened the domed portion of the lifters on the first few cylinders to varying degrees. New motors under warrenty, both of them.
 
over2land said:
I've been personally involved in two 06 LJs rounding off cam lobes. One, a good friend's at 21K, and the other, my girlfriends, at 35 K miles. Both did the breakin with whatever oil was in the Jeep, both then switched to mobile 1. My girl ran purolator pure one filters, my buddy fram filters. Both rounded off lobes on the came, and flattened the domed portion of the lifters on the first few cylinders to varying degrees. New motors under warrenty, both of them.
Click to expand...
What oil was used during break in and were any additives used? How exactly did they break in the cam? Did they let it idle on first start or was it immediately brought up to 2000 or so rpm?
 
Ahh... Good 'ol Rotella T seems to be the product of choice for flat tappets. Which is ironic because it's one of the cheapest synthetics you can buy. I know a LOT of the saturn guys who switch to synth run that stuff and love it. I've just always run Mobil 1. Looks like I'll be making a switch.
 
corbinafly said:
What oil was used during break in and were any additives used? How exactly did they break in the cam? Did they let it idle on first start or was it immediately brought up to 2000 or so rpm?
Click to expand...

Unknown.

Both new Jeeps. Not like either stabbed the motor in themselves.

Neither was an ordered for them Jeep either.

Both Jeeps had between 5 and 10 miles on them when picked up to take home. Both Jeeps were test driven by at least them before decisions were made.

Break in oil, whatever was in the motor when Jeep gave it to them. First scheduled oil change by the aggressive schedule in the owners manual, both went to 10W30 synthetic Mobil 1. On the new motors, both are now running dino oil with cam additive, just to be safe. Not sure what cam additive they put in it... the ol lady used something from GM.

Talking to Royal Purple, they knew about the change in the Mobil oil. According to Royal Purple, they have not changed forumulas, still has the phosphorus and is still safe for flat tappet cams. They were telling me any oil with a -SM (IIRC) rating, or specification, is the oil with less phosphurous in it. And, for new flat tappet motors, it will likely destroy them. Apparently motors already broken in, not such a big deal.
 
My dad has driven trucks his whole life and runs Rotella T from truckstops. His driving style more than the oil might be why his engines always ran many 100,000's of miles.
 
tcm glx said:
What about for diesels guys?
Click to expand...

I run Delo400 in all of my vehicles. My father used Delo exclusively in his semi's when he had his trucking business going, and used it in his personal vehicles also. So I pick the habit up from him.

I've never had a problem with it. It has a higher detergent content and higher levels of friction modifiers. No sludge build up to speak of; every engine I've torn apart that runs Delo has been sparkling clean on the inside.

The downside is that those higher levels of friction modifiers can degrade your cat fast than regular automotive oil. I've never actually seen this happen in any of my vehicles though.
 
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