• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Dana 44 Tech

CRASH said:
I can’t believe I’m going to say this, but even a well executed leaf spring design with a good spring pack and a traction bar would be better than the stock stuff. Be creative.
CRASH

My life is now complete. I will continue my front leaf spring build with appropriate approval from the WCGIC. :dunce:

Oh yeah... awesome writeups, TONS of great info! I thank you for the time you have been dedicating to this.

-justin
 
afd516 said:
I am in the process of building a 35 spine 9'' for the rear and a 76 "waggy" D44 for the front. This is a learning process for me and I was under the impression (not from this forum) that you could run larger tires than 35". Apperently, I was mistaken. This being the case, what becomes the weak link and what do I have to do to the D44 to make it strong enough to go with larger tires? I would like to run Interco TSL 38". Also, is there an aftermarket bracket kit to install the D44 into my XJ? Do I try to use the stock brakets or do I need to fabricate some new ones? I have the ability to do any of the options just what would be best? This is not a daily driver, its an expensive toy. Thanks in advance to any responses.


I'll direct this at Big Red also...

If you want to run 37's, run 37's! It seems there's this stigma surrounding this particular tire size. There are a ton of variables that play into breakage of axle parts, tire size being just one of those variables. If you're prepared ahead of time to fix your rig, as you should be anyway, run whatever you want. If you're looking for approval, back away from the 37's until you have the "right" axle in front.

Maybe the next tech focus should be on tires and rims with a chart that can list the different tire manufacter's actual tire size (ie. a 35" tire doesn't typically measure 35" tall...), weights, compunds (and how those compunds affect our coveted traction), etc. Maybe a seperate comparison of rims: steel, aluminum, beadlocks, etc. including weights, and material composition for strength comparisons. I'll have to set up a poll to nominate our lucky researching candidate, cause' I sure aint doin' it.

I guess my main point is that a 35 on a steel rim is not that much lighter than a 37 from the same manufacter on the right aluminum rim. If you want to run 37's, run them. Tell us your experiences. Expalin what happened if you break. Who knows, you may be just that one person whose run 37's for years and never broken anything. You'll never know until you ACTUALLY try it. If you're out for approval, you're on the board for the wrong reasons and should have never even considered 37's in the first place.

CRASH- great article.
 
Hey I just registered so I could post some useful info. I have a ZJ that I am in the process of putting a Waggy 44 in up front which is really no different in the front than the XJ.

I got my front brackets from www.claytonoffroad.com and it is a nice setup. He sent me a cad drawing for setting up the brackets on the axle and I thought I would share it with you guys. As you can see the upper control arm mounts are set at 105 degrees from center.

IM003067.jpg


Here are the brackets laid out that have to be installed. Pretty intimidating for me anyway.
IM003066.jpg


Here I have gotten started but still have a way to go.

IM003066.jpg


Hope this helps. I have gotten alot of great info from this site and would glad to help out in return.

Shay
 
Right on Nemo. I agree with your entire though process here. And as an example(not my own), A local 4wd business owner runs 37" BFG KM's with 30/44 axles w/ARB diffs in both ends. Also 4-1 t-case. Stock frt. shafts and original u-joints w/ lots of road miles. He has not broken anything yet. The Jeep has been on its side once or twice I believe, and has been out west and done alot of the rocks. He has a very slow and easy driving style when it comes to big rocks.
 
Along the lines of tire size for a particualr axle, etc.

35" Interco != 35" BFG

That is, if you are going to add a caveat that 35s on a certain axle is about the upper limit make sure that you say that is a "light" 35" tire or a heavy, gnarly rock grabber.

FWIW, from what I've seen up here the wheeling here will stand up to 37-38" tires (gnarly or not) on Dana 44s regardless of tire type. Those that have breakages tend to be harder on the loud pedal or have hit the fatigue limit of the junkyard axle they started with.

You can tell the fatigue limit: a breakage within the first few runs of getting the rig working, replacement with new OEM parts, no more breakage.

Gotta remember, a lot of times we are running someone else's junk - it got into that yard for a reason. Don't be too surprised if something breaks.

r@m
 
Gil BullyKatz said:
I'm still trying to figure out if I have a 77 or 78 f150 or bronco HP44...

5 x 5.5 Wheel pattern

The radius arm mounts are welded...

but it has disk brakes...

Going to run a Farmer Matt inspired modified Radius arm design...

Thanks for the write-up Crash...

Good reading

Mine was a 76 f150, I believe the 78 had cast raduis arm mounts

good job crash
 
he's done Dana 30 and 44 for the front, which he has had both of, and he's covered lots of rear axles that he has first and second hand experience with. So I doubt there is any real 60 tech coming down the tubes because he doesn't have one and I don't think he has nearly the amount of research and experience on 60s since his 44 is working great for him.


besides, there's already a TON of great 60 tech here: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/index.html
 
CRASH said:
I really wish I could edit that post with Rubicon and export 44 info, as I had a page written and forgot to add it. I don't want to break it up by posting here. ****Hint-Hint, moderators****

CRASH

Great tech on these articles Crash!

I'd like to see what you've written about the Rubi/Export axles.

IMHO, they're a viable option in the gravel, shale, and muck of PA. I've seen them running 37's and a light foot with no breakage - my export 44 handles 33's with no probs.
 
XJack said:
Great tech on these articles Crash!

I'd like to see what you've written about the Rubi/Export axles.

IMHO, they're a viable option in the gravel, shale, and muck of PA. I've seen them running 37's and a light foot with no breakage - my export 44 handles 33's with no probs.
Ditto, stick it in an export/rubi specific thread and link the others...should work fine and keep the "oddball" tech in it's own thread.

r@m
 
Hey shay, interesting pics. Is that something new that Clayton just released? There's no info at all about it on his site. Were there instructions on how all the pieces fit together? I'm having a hard time figuring out what the large plates w/o any holes are for...

edit: nevermind, I see them in the cad printout now.
 
Last edited:
Capt. Nemo said:
I'll direct this at Big Red also...

If you want to run 37's, run 37's! It seems there's this stigma surrounding this particular tire size. There are a ton of variables that play into breakage of axle parts, tire size being just one of those variables. If you're prepared ahead of time to fix your rig, as you should be anyway, run whatever you want. If you're looking for approval, back away from the 37's until you have the "right" axle in front.

Maybe the next tech focus should be on tires and rims with a chart that can list the different tire manufacter's actual tire size (ie. a 35" tire doesn't typically measure 35" tall...), weights, compunds (and how those compunds affect our coveted traction), etc. Maybe a seperate comparison of rims: steel, aluminum, beadlocks, etc. including weights, and material composition for strength comparisons. I'll have to set up a poll to nominate our lucky researching candidate, cause' I sure aint doin' it.

I guess my main point is that a 35 on a steel rim is not that much lighter than a 37 from the same manufacter on the right aluminum rim. If you want to run 37's, run them. Tell us your experiences. Expalin what happened if you break. Who knows, you may be just that one person whose run 37's for years and never broken anything. You'll never know until you ACTUALLY try it. If you're out for approval, you're on the board for the wrong reasons and should have never even considered 37's in the first place.

CRASH- great article.
 
I like your thoughts. I just know how I drive, agressive but safe, I just need to do more research to figure out what would be best for my application. I know one thing is for sure I hate being "that guy" fixing my rig on the trail. I'd rather be wheelin! If you have any more info I would be glad to hear it, Sam.
 
Jeepin Jason said:
Hey shay, interesting pics. Is that something new that Clayton just released? There's no info at all about it on his site. Were there instructions on how all the pieces fit together? I'm having a hard time figuring out what the large plates w/o any holes are for...

edit: nevermind, I see them in the cad printout now.




The flat plates go on top of the lower mounts and are the base for the spring pad. Yea it confuses me also and the cad drawing is all I have to go on. He doesn't have the front axle bracket kit on his site but he does sell them. Not cheaply though I might add. Very beefy kit though.

By the way I keep trying to edit my post but can find that option. Where is the edit button?
 
I dunno, sometimes I edit my posts, and sometimes not...

Does he give any tips/ideas on how to get the driver-side UCA mount on top of the diff? I know RE's kit uses a nice bridge across the top of the diff, but I see no such thing in those brackets from Clayton.

edit: OK, it looks like you can edit your posts for a short time after it's posted, I'm not sure what the "time limit" is though. You may also have to be a NAXJA member to get that functionality.
 
Thanks for the info on these brackets. I had just went to there website and emailed them about where there kit was and how much it was. Apperantly someone else is interested. When I get A reply i will let you all know. By the way, when you get these brackets installed let us know how it went for you. Thanks, Sam.
 
Clayton's kit better not be any more than $379, which is how much RE's kit costs, and for the most part, RE's kit looks to be better and more complete. Clayton's coil buckets are pretty trick looking though.
 
Back
Top