dana 30 vs rubicon dana 44

[iroll919]

i am to the point where i am going to step up to 35s and am stuck in a bind

option #1 upgrade dana 30 chromoly shafts 4.10s or 4.56s 760 u-joints and some sort of extra support/truss/diff cover probably similar to what ericsxj did no locker for now

(i feel like this would be fine it seems like every wrangler around here is running 35s on their low pinion dana 30s and dana 35 rears without much trouble why does everyone doubt our xjs high pinion dana 30s and 29 spline 8.25s)

option #2 buy complete rubicon dana 44 for 1000 bucks already has 4.10 gear ratio factory air locker chromoly shafts plus stock spares and currie hd steering and aftermarket diff cover

(the problem is the d-44 is low pinion and is coming out of a tj that has been driven pretty hard)

from what i have read both axles are very similar only difference is the d-44 has 30 spline inners and a larger ring and pinion basically everything else is the same

so which route should i go? i do run several trails that have some pretty nasty rocky spots but i am always careful and easy on the throttle
sorry for the long post

 

[1998xj1985]

dana 30. a buddy ran one of the hammer trails in johnson valley with chromo-30 shafts and no truss with a lockrite and it was his rear 44 that blew up.

 

[Fidget360]

I"m no expert, but I'd say that dana 44 is too good a deal to pass up.

 

[Darky]

Don't let the gearing sway you, you'll probably want 4.56s or even 4.88s with 35s, so either way will need a regear. That said, you'll have stronger (I think) shafts, especially already having the chromos, and a bigger ring gear that'll handle the lower gears better with the 44. A 3o can be built to withstand it all pretty good too, check with Cal, he's got one heavily built D30. Search for "polishing the turdy", there's another guy who built his up.

 

[hjeepxj]

Option # 2 actually sounds like a pretty sweet deal knowing that it comes with all of that stuff. Like Darky said though, 4.10s is not enough gear for 35's. I have 4.10's with 33s and I can assure you I would be happier with 4.56s. Even still, a used set of 4.88s for the 44, an install kit and installation could run you around 400ish and @ 1400$ for a d44 w/chromos, 4.88s, selectable locker, 30 splines, Currie steering, and spare shafts is a darn good deal.

 

[iroll919]

so the dana 44 being low pinion is not going to be a problem ??

 

[Jump This]

The low pinion is not all that big a deal. Although we always look for more ground clearance, as well as drive shaft clearance.

I run a 30 without any truss, using 4:88 and chromoly shafts, locked with
35's.
I have broken a couple of chromo shafts, but I run it pretty hard at the Hammers.....

Since you live in Colorado (snow?) you will want a selectable locker.
The 44 sounds like a bargain, but you will need to take a good look at it.

 

[urbexx]

so the dana 44 being low pinion is not going to be a problem ??

It probably won't be a problem from a strength standpoint, but you also won't be gaining anything either. How is it going to affect your front drive shaft angles? I sure wouldn't want to increase that angle any more than it already is in my rig.

Keep in mind that Rubi D44 is only a D44 in the centersection and inner shafts. It's still D30 knuckles, brakes, outer shaft, hubs. How often do you hear of someone blowing a D30 R&P? Even when they're over abusing them with big tires and heavy throttle, it's almost always a continued string of broken u-joints and shafts.

At $1000, it's not a bad deal, but it's not a screaming deal either. From what I've been seeing, you pretty much need the factory air pump as well to run those lockers, as they require only 5psi, and standard regulators don't go that low reliably. If you already have some sort of compressor on board, it will interface with an ARB, as the ARBs use something like 80-100psi. There's also been quite a few reports of broken Rubi lockers, ironically while they're NOT locked in. Apparently the LS gears take a vacation.

As others have said, you're going to want at least 4.56 on 35s, and I haven't heard one person around here say they're unhappy with 4.88s, and wished they would have done 4.56 or 4.10, even on DDs.

If it were me, I'd keep the D30, and upgrade as needed.

 

[fasteddieyj]

There's also been quite a few reports of broken Rubi lockers, ironically while they're NOT locked in. Apparently the LS gears take a vacation.

That is only with the rear Rubi axles as the front has no LS. But you are right about them blowing up. Buddy of mine just burned his up about a month ago at Rausch Creek.

 

[urbexx]

Oooh, good point

 

[SharkXJ]

For 35's you are going to want 4:56 or 4:88 gears. AS folks have said I would build your D30. It can handle 35's no problem.

Another issue to think about is clearence. I have a couple of buddies who went back from D44's to D30's because on 35's they were dragging the 44's on a lot. If you were running 37's or higher then a 44 is a great option.

From what I have read an HP30 is 33% stronger than a LP. $1,000 for an Axel you know has been beat isn't worth the $$$$.

Good Luck....

 

[leftlanetruckin]

i ran a hp30 on my old yj.
it had a chevy 4.3/700r4/4.3 atlas and 4.88's. it was riding on 37x14.50 toyo mt's.
i broke a couple of u joints, then went to the yukon super joints and never had an issue.
it had the 30 spline shafts/arb/rock crusher diff cover with jb4x4 crossover steering.
you are not going to gain anything with a tj 44 IMO. i heard all about the ring and pinion strength gain on a 44 too, but have never personally met anyone who has broke one. i have seen a tj 44 grenade though....
the jk's are stronger than the tj 44's so i have read, and that is what i am running now on the xj.

martin

 

[Sero]

A LP d44 has very little increase in strength over the HP d30. That plus I've heard the tubes are pretty weak on the rubi d44's.

 

[iroll919]

ideally i want jk 44s but i cant find any used ones and i dont want to spend 1500 on a new axle with a gear ratio i am just gonna change and have to redo all the brackets

which isnt really that bad and someday i will probably do but not today

thanks for all of the responses everybody i guess i will just throw some of that 1000$ bucks towards my d-30 and probably the rest towards my rear

 

[256offroad]

A LP d44 has very little increase in strength over the HP d30. That plus I've heard the tubes are pretty weak on the rubi d44's.

thats cause they are the d30 tubes.

and a rubi locker take 10psi. and you can find stock air pumps all over the internet. i was able to find one for the tj.

but with that said. i would build up the d30. even though the selectable front locker is real nice. you would save money with polishing the 30.

as for the d44 being a lp. dont let that scare you. for 2 years i ran a lp30 out of a tj with 4.56s and a lockrite on my rock rig and hung my driveshaft a couple time. you just gotta know how to drive the beast.

 

[Sero]

thats cause they are the d30 tubes.

I think there's a bit more to it than that, the tubes may be the same dia. but they seem to be thinner. I've cut up a XJ d30 and the tubes we're pretty thick. The pics i saw of the broken rubi d44 had much thinner tubes. Coulda been the pic too though.

That being said, I would rather just upgrade the 30

 

[256offroad]

I think there's a bit more to it than that, the tubes may be the same dia. but they seem to be thinner. I've cut up a XJ d30 and the tubes we're pretty thick. The pics i saw of the broken rubi d44 had much thinner tubes. Coulda been the pic too though.

That being said, I would rather just upgrade the 30

sure it wasnt the jk d44tubes? they are pretty thin.
i am pretty sure the tj d44 tubes are the same as the d30 tubes.

 

[Sero]

sure it wasnt the jk d44tubes? they are pretty thin.
i am pretty sure the tj d44 tubes are the same as the d30 tubes.

That could be it...too many d44's to keep track of.