Dana 30 Spartan Locker Install with Stock Gears?

[MagicNelson]

I read on the instruction manual for the Spartan that the removal of the carrier is only necessary with deeper gears. I have stock 3.55 gears and would like to avoid doing the extra steps. However, all of the write ups that I've seen take the carrier out. Does anyone know of a write up for installing the locker without removing the carrier? Or any tips you could give from experience? I'd imagine that the install is easier given the shorter steps, but at the same time I'm thinking it might be more difficult putting the locker in without having it on a bench. Any tips would be appreciated!

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

its doable with the carrier in the axle...

i had to do it that way with my 8.25, the Cclip design mandates it.

as for the D30, its just easier to do it on the bench, especially if your a normal joe in your garage. its only 4 bolts to remove the bearing caps. just be sure to mark their orientation, left and right, up and down. i dont think its important for the bolts to go back in the same way, but i always do. CORRECT TORQUE RATING!

FWIW, almost every online resource will tell you that the spartan, aussie, (insert lunchbox here) can be done without removing the ring gear on high (low numerically) gears... i had to take the ring gear off on my 3.55 geared D30... the cross shaft would not come out of the carrier either way. maybe its just how the ring gear was indexed or something.

 

[kastein]

Bolts can go back in anywhere, but yes, make sure the caps go on the same sides and facing the same direction as they came off in.

I had to take my ring gear off for a d30 lunchbox locker with 3.55s as well.

 

[JWheeler]

Same here. Just installed a spartan in mine. Had to pull the ring gear. You will need to pull the carrier.

 

[Whitehorse]

Just food for thought...No matter if you have to remove the ring from the carrier or not, your mostly there anyway why not remove it, do your locker on the bench and change the axle seals at the same time beings your disturbing them doing what your doing. I did and was glad, I had to hone the carrier slightly with sand paper to accept the recommend cross pin to fit. I tried tapping it with a soft hammer and it got stuck most of the way through and had to brass drift punch it back out. I don't know why!... I bought a brand new spicer carrier, locker, and pin. The pin the came with the new carrier fit just fine but just a wizit too tight with Spartan pin.

 

[831_xj]

The caps have markings on them.
One side has a N the other a Z. Match the corresponding marks.

Also just do it on a bench it's so basic!
Good luck

 

[MagicNelson]

Thanks for the help guys. I am certainly no mechanic so taking the carrier out seems a bit intimidating but I won't learn if I don't do it! The Spartan should be here in a few days so hopefully I'll be able to install it this weekend. I'll report back on how it goes!

 

[whitexj98]

Note for carrier removal. Carrier Should be "hard" to get out. If it falls out thats not good...

Easy way to get it out is to put a 17mm wrench on one of the carrier bolts and rotate the carrier untill the wrench hits the diff. Then use a bar or pipe wrench on the yoke and turn the pinion. It will force the carrier right out.

 

[MagicNelson]

Thanks for the tip. If the carrier is hard to get out, will it be just as tough getting it back in?

 

[whitexj98]

Yes, I tap them in with a rubber mallet.

 

[kastein]

Make sure you keep each bearing cup with the side of the diff it came from, since they have worn into a certain pattern and swapping them will probably disturb it.

The caps have markings on them.
One side has a N the other a Z. Match the corresponding marks.

Also just do it on a bench it's so basic!
Good luck

The carrier bearing caps? What letter it is depends on random chance, and it's actually the same letter but one is horizontal and one is vertical. For instance the last one I worked on was stamped with an A.

They USUALLY (I've seen unstamped housings) stamp a vertical letter at the top of one carrier bearing cap, and the same vertical letter on the cover sealing surface on that side, and then horizontal on the other cap and sealing surface. Makes it very easy to line them up, but just make sure the marks are present first.

This is also a good way to avoid being burned on an unknown used axle housing purchase - if the stamped letters don't match, you know whoever set it up either slapped caps on it after losing them, or doesn't know what they are doing. In either case, if the letters don't match (for instance N on the housing and R stamped on the caps) you have either a worthless housing on your hands, or need to put aftermarket caps on it and have the housing line honed back to circular/parallel bores. Probably not worth it on a d30 if you find this kind of shenanigans going on.