Damaged synthetic winch line..

[FleXJ96]

"It sounds to me like you didnt spool the rope under a load."]It sounds to me like you didnt spool the rope under a load.

When I spooled the rope initially I attached the rope to a tree saver and had my buddy apply the brakes lightly as I worked the controller pulling the line in. Was that a proper method? I am totally new to winching in general and even more so synthetic line. Off part a club member in my Jeep club a similar experience with the same winch/rope. I did actually get the rope replaced under warranty, but now I am gun shy about making another pull , or do I try and trade some one for cable.... Any more tips/advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[rockclimber]

I always try to pull the rig up a hill to spool it back in.

Did you make sure it spooled straight and all the way across? No gaps?

 

[XJLI]

has anyone ruled out that it might be craptastic smittybuilt rope?

 

[MoparManiac]

I'm WAY too lazy/negligent to ever run synthetic rope :laugh:

Agreed on if you changed over to synthetic rope and didn't swap out of the fairlead.

 

[ocean_jet]

http://www.okoffroad.com/editorial-rope.htm


Just one company's opinion on roller fairleads. I use an aluminum hawse only cause that's what was recommended. I really can't tell you it if would get pinched or not in a roller style...

A Note on the Fairlead:
We recommend not to use a roller fairlead with synthetic winch rope. Why? For many reasons:

- Winch rope is designed to flatten-out under load, and therefor could get pinched in the corners of a roller fairlead.
- A steel roller (even a new one) gets weatherized and rusted quickly (see image below) and is not good for the rope.
- Synthetic winch rope is actually too smooth to roll the roller.
- An old roller fairlead is not good for the rope, especially if scuffed.
- A roller fairlead is much heavier.
- A roller fairlead sticks out further, reducing approach angle.
- Bolts, or spindles with C-clips on a roller might cause a winch rope to snag. Our aluminum fairlead has nothing in front for the rope to catch on.

 

[rockclimber]

this isn't directed at you mike, but your link... I call BS

http://www.okoffroad.com/editorial-rope.htm

Quote:
A Note on the Fairlead:
We recommend not to use a roller fairlead with synthetic winch rope. Why? For many reasons:
- Winch rope is designed to flatten-out under load, and therefor could get pinched in the corners of a roller fairlead.
Bullshit. it will not get caught if it is flat, round or square unless you are pulling at such an extreme angle that even a hawse would damage the line

- A steel roller (even a new one) gets weatherized and rusted quickly (see image below) and is not good for the rope.
also BS... thats called not taking care of your shit... and shouldnt be part of the issue

- Synthetic winch rope is actually too smooth to roll the roller.
bold faced lie.

- An old roller fairlead is not good for the rope, especially if scuffed.
yea, neither is a hawse that is scuffed.

- A roller fairlead is much heavier.
- A roller fairlead sticks out further, reducing approach angle.
I agree, the only reason not to run a roller.

- Bolts, or spindles with C-clips on a roller might cause a winch rope to snag.
Bullshit, why would the rope be anywhere near the c clips?


Our aluminum fairlead has nothing in front for the rope to catch on.

just people selling a product trying to make money on BS info.

 

[yaromb]

You can use a roller fairlead, but have to change the rollers to a different material. I think it's plastic. Daystar makes a kit that works for me.

As mentioned above, you need to make sure the line does not get pinched... Also that the rollers are properly installed - they were not the same length as the WARN ones I took off and I had to cut them to proper size...

By definition, the hawse fairlead in the right item for synthetic line. They are there not just for looks... In some cases it's not possible so modified rollers will do the trick...

 

[rockclimber]

You can use a roller fairlead, but have to change the rollers to a different material. I think it's plastic. Daystar makes a kit that works for me.

As mentioned above, you need to make sure the line does not get pinched... Also that the rollers are properly installed - they were not the same length as the WARN ones I took off and I had to cut them to proper size...

By definition, the hawse fairlead in the right item for synthetic line. They are there not just for looks... In some cases it's not possible so modified rollers will do the trick...

Do you have any tech to back that up?

Why would you have to change the rollers? As long as they are not burred, or damaged it won't matter.

What about a hawse makes it better for the synthetic line.

Don't drink the kool-aid

 

[FleXJ96]

So I got a replacement rope. Some one wants to trade me a new warn steel cable and roller for my new rope and fairlead. Think I should do it ? When I bought the winch I knew I was getting a cheaper winch, but didn't really know about types if ropes and that this is the most basic open weave style.

 

[FleXJ96]

Trade and $100 that is .

 

[Frank Z]

No, keep the rope and add another sleeve to it.

 

[rstarch345]

this isn't directed at you mike, but your link... I call BS

http://www.okoffroad.com/editorial-rope.htm



just people selling a product trying to make money on BS info.

Now I'm not trying to knock your comments, but what makes you the expert? Do you use a synthetic rope? If so for how long? Have you actually used it with a roller fairlead?

I find a lot of people knock issues like this purely from conjecture, not experience.

Yes I have a synthetic rope (since '06) and have tried it with a roller fairlead. Not all roller fairleads are equal. Matter in fact even an aluminum hawse fairlead can cause damage to synthetic rope. A lot of it has to do with the environment that you wheel in. It's easier for a manufacture to say don't than to say if you're in this environment do this, but if wheelin' here do this but if in this situation do that. Too many conditions and no one will read it.

Drop the roller fairlead into a batch of gritty mud then have to winch out with synthetic rope and I'll guarantee the rollers will tear up the rope. Maybe not enough to immediately make it unusable, but a lot of fibers will be cut and over time the rope will fail.

 

[Sneaky]

It sounds to me like you didnt spool the rope under a load. You are supposed to have several hundred pounds of tension on the rope before you use it. I usually load it with the winch tied off and the Jeep on a good hill. If its spooled without a load, the first time you put a load on it, it will chafe the rope as its tightening itself on the spool. It essentially pinches itself.

Roller fairleads are perfectly fine for Synthetic, as long as the rollers are in like new shape, i.e. have never been used with steel cable. They also make/sell Delrin roller replacements that wont rust and chew up Synthetic rope.

I have 3 synthetic ropes, two of which are over 7 years old now, and have hundreds of pulls on them in all conditions. Aside from being faded, they are good to go. I will say, if you get mud in the fibers, take the rope off an flush it out good. I usually throw them in the washing machine on a delicate cycle using woolite. Let them air dry.

What he said^^^

I would keep your synthetic line.

I had two SmiityBuilt XRC8's when they first came out. One on the Chevy Colorado and one on the HUMMER H3. On the Colorado I used a Steele haws fair lead. It worked just fine but I didn't like the friction created on it from extreme angle pulls. On the HUMMER I had an ARB bumper. The way it was designed I had to use a roller fair lead. It was new and worked great. Never an issue. I got my synthetic rope from the local logging supply shop here in town and put my own eyes and safety thimbles on them. You will get the small little fray of fine fibers, that is normal. Do not know how that one spot could have happened. I have been using synthetic for 7 years now with no issues other than very very minimal melt on the first wrap on the drum from heat. You can get delrin rollers too if you wanted. I was going to do that just to make the roller look nicer.

Here you can see my roller with synthetic. The roller is recessed so there was no way I could put a Haws on there. I never ever once had an issue with it. Gotta use one that has clean rollers though is all so it doesn't fray your rope.

 

[rockclimber]

Drop the roller fairlead into a batch of gritty mud then have to winch out with synthetic rope and I'll guarantee the rollers will tear up the rope. Maybe not enough to immediately make it unusable, but a lot of fibers will be cut and over time the rope will fail.

Do the same to a hawse and it will do the same.

 

[yaromb]

Amen - I have the ARB too and they told me specifically to use a roller fairlead as it is important structurally. With the delrin rollers it works fine...

What he said^^^

I would keep your synthetic line.

I had two SmiityBuilt XRC8's when they first came out. One on the Chevy Colorado and one on the HUMMER H3. On the Colorado I used a Steele haws fair lead. It worked just fine but I didn't like the friction created on it from extreme angle pulls. On the HUMMER I had an ARB bumper. The way it was designed I had to use a roller fair lead. It was new and worked great. Never an issue. I got my synthetic rope from the local logging supply shop here in town and put my own eyes and safety thimbles on them. You will get the small little fray of fine fibers, that is normal. Do not know how that one spot could have happened. I have been using synthetic for 7 years now with no issues other than very very minimal melt on the first wrap on the drum from heat. You can get delrin rollers too if you wanted. I was going to do that just to make the roller look nicer.

 

[zachandandy]

If the rollers are a structural component of arb bumpers, that is one more reason never to buy 1.

 

[Sneaky]

It's not part of structural integrity. It just needs a roller fair lead to get the line to clear the structure of the bumper. There's actually a license plate bracket you can use if your not using a winch. It's a simple bracket so its not a matter of structure for the bumper. Not sure what the other poster meant by that but I think he just explained it incorrectly. ARB bumpers are built pretty well too. You definitely get what you pay for with them.

 

[Devilfrog]

That's an abbrasion, what we call pressure bruising. Put enough load in one point and even a round tube will literally cut through rope. The rope was pressed against something at that point, with the full weight of the pull on it. Sad fact of synthetic line is you loose in durability, what you gain in weight saving and pull rating.
Either add another abrasion sleeve, or two, that can be placed wherever the rope rubs againt rocks, trees, ground or what have you ... Or switch to cable. Synth rope is stronger and lighter, but just not as durable, so special care must be taken. Properly taken care of Synth line will last a long time and serve well, but again you hqve to take care of it to prevent abrasion, and dirt from getting into the line.

And yes, synth line can be pinched into a roller fairlead if the pull angle in right (or wrong as it were). It's soft and highly flexible, seen rope pinch in at work all the time. Cable doesn't have the issue, but each tylpe of line has it's plusees and minuses.

 

[Ericlouie1]

This is my winch at fairlead that came with it and here is the pull with a brand new snatch block. Straight on with a snatch block and I stood outside jeep and ran controller.

They are replacing the line but I need to either make sure it doesn't happen again or trade some one for a cable and some cash. I paid more for rope bc I was told it was better across the board. Sucks this was first real pull. I wound it on the drum with my buddy in the jeep lightly applying the brakes as I pulled the jeep into a tree. So it was nice and tight.

It almost looks like the line is crossed at some point between the jeeps, it may have been possible for the line to have come into contact with itself at this crossover point, and caused your problem.