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Daily Driver Build and Plan - Jay's WIP

lol right turns. Sounded good to me. :cheers:

The problem with ratcheting, grinding, etc, is that I have family to transport. Most of what I have read say that it doesn't matter much for light-medium wheeling whether it is in the front or rear, because you are still in 3WD if you lose traction on an axle. I understand the school of thought that wants the front axle to be locked for pulling and steering through stuff, but if its close to irrelevant then I'd rather have the least obtrusive.

That, and the fact that I'm going to do a rear disc swap, meaning I have to go into the rear diff anyway if I read correctly (axles have to come out, right?) means it's less effort in the short term. I'd rather land on the side of comfort if the performance is similar.


Its more of a ratcheting noise. Every once in a while you can feel it in the steering. I was very unsure about running a lunchbox locker up front Until I did it. Its really invisible until you put it in 4wd. I drive mine to work every day, wheel it often and spend a lot of time driving to wheeling spots. I drove it to Harlan, KY which is about 5 hours for me a week after I installed the locker. Then a couple months later drove it 5 hours to PacificEd's house to Lift Rusty's rig. Its invisible on the interstate.
 
I promise a rear lunch box locker will be more noticable in the back than it would in the front...

Reason I say that is because a lunchbox locker should only engage when torque is applied to it from the drive shaft. With it in the rear it will be locking everytime you push the gas pedal. With it in the front it'll only lock when you put it in 4wd and push the gas pedal.

The only time I'd put it in the back is if I already had one in the front.

and when we say ratcheting... We're not talking about a loud god aweful unbearable noise. I mean you really have to listen for it. It's hard to hear over the engine.
 
I promise a rear lunch box locker will be more noticable in the back than it would in the front...

Reason I say that is because a lunchbox locker should only engage when torque is applied to it from the drive shaft. With it in the rear it will be locking everytime you push the gas pedal. With it in the front it'll only lock when you put it in 4wd and push the gas pedal.

The only time I'd put it in the back is if I already had one in the front.

and when we say ratcheting... We're not talking about a loud god aweful unbearable noise. I mean you really have to listen for it. It's hard to hear over the engine.

x2
 
I promise a rear lunch box locker will be more noticable in the back than it would in the front...

Reason I say that is because a lunchbox locker should only engage when torque is applied to it from the drive shaft. With it in the rear it will be locking everytime you push the gas pedal. With it in the front it'll only lock when you put it in 4wd and push the gas pedal.

The only time I'd put it in the back is if I already had one in the front.

and when we say ratcheting... We're not talking about a loud god aweful unbearable noise. I mean you really have to listen for it. It's hard to hear over the engine.

Unless it's in an axle with a whole slew of problems, and on a Jeep with a tcase that's trying to kill it. Ask me how I know...
 
Unless it's in an axle with a whole slew of problems, and on a Jeep with a tcase that's trying to kill it. Ask me how I know...

LOL! You get the SYE 231 yet? Shop is open for the swap any time!
 
LOL! You get the SYE 231 yet? Shop is open for the swap any time!

Nope I need to. Still sitting on the bench at home. Every time I walk out into the garage I say "Damn I need to go ahead and get an SYE for it already..." I also need to piece together the tools necessary for doing gears, that way once Nick gets his axle out and I get it from him, I can work on teaching myself how to do gearing.
 
Yeah, That's another thing I've never done.

I changed a diff one time on a Mustang I had. Auburn into an 8.8. It was highly recommended to have someone set up the lash, and out of the 50 Mustang enthusiast I knew, only one guy could do it and he was a rear end guru.

Needless to say, I'm not looking forward to the rear disc brake conversion.

Oh, btw, my username change went through, in case you guys didn't notice. I'm officially the Artist formerly known as XJ1994.

:D

--J.
 
So... Alternator charging to ~17 volts has me thinking. I only drove it one time before breaking the battery terminal off.

I replaced the terminal and now it's overcharging. I'm thinking because I half-assed pushing the terminal on, wires are crimped in, but really, enough to get it started and drive across town for my lift last Saturday, that I may be overcharging due to a bad connection to the + terminal on the batt.

The trouble I'm having is that I don't know if the loose + connection would cause this on a '94.

Regardless, does the Voltage Regulator exist on the Alternator or PCM on my year?

I'm going to start with spreading out the terminal and pushing it down more and tightening it. Dang I need new cables.

Edit: I've read:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1064835&highlight=overcharging&page=2
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1006735&highlight=overcharging
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=975386&highlight=overcharging
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40842&highlight=overcharging
 
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Make sure all battery connections and grounds are clean. From what I saw Saturday, they weren't, and Jeeps do not like dirty connections a-tall! When my connections got dirty enough, I had the same problem...

40316_718615561857_36618587_39925860_624071_n.jpg


Only while I was driving down the highway one morning, late for work. Pulled over and shut it off only to not have it start back up...or do anything for that matter (it was like the battery had been completely removed). Cleaned the terminals on the side of the highway and off I went.
 
Ok, that's the plan this weekend. If it works, then I'll be headed to the pick N pull for rear disc brake stuff. If it doesn't, well, I'll be screwing around with that this weekend.

I still need to look up how to back-flush a heater core to try to save it. I'm going to do the coolant flush and refill it this weekend if I have time.
 
Ok, that's the plan this weekend. If it works, then I'll be headed to the pick N pull for rear disc brake stuff. If it doesn't, well, I'll be screwing around with that this weekend.

I still need to look up how to back-flush a heater core to try to save it. I'm going to do the coolant flush and refill it this weekend if I have time.

Clamp a hose to the outlet and turn on the water.
 
Make sure all battery connections and grounds are clean. From what I saw Saturday, they weren't,

HEY NOW!!!!!!!

haaahaa. This sucker is a true Heep (I think you'll agree that title is well-deserved, especially judging by your comment above!)... and Yeah, pretty much everything on this it needs to be pulled off, cleaned, and put back on. I just threw a terminal on it just to get it over to Nick's place. It was always temporary. Now that we got it driving 10x better, I can stop patching and start fixing.
:yelclap:

For now, I'll clean that terminal, reattach, and pull those grounds off and hit them with a wire brush. Then I'll figure out whether I want to redo my cables with welding cable or 5-90 pre-mades or whatever, and decide on a battery.

Also I'm going to pull that reservoir out, rinse the muddy rust out, then back flush the heater core and perform a coolant flush before refilling with either 70/30 or 50/50, read conflicting reports on this.

Then I can move on to the oil leaks, joy.
 
Clamp a hose to the outlet and turn on the water.

My coolant system is in SHAKY shape. I think I'll use the low/medium pressure method, and just hold the garden hose to the hose on the heater core outlet with the lower radiator hose pulled off. I have a nasty feeling that if I pressurize that system and crank the water that my floorboards will fill up. I'm going to try to be as gentle as I can with it.

I'm still trying to decide between backflush-then-coolant flush or coolant-then-backflush.
 
HEY NOW!!!!!!!

haaahaa. This sucker is a true Heep (I think you'll agree that title is well-deserved, especially judging by your comment above!)... and Yeah, pretty much everything on this it needs to be pulled off, cleaned, and put back on. I just threw a terminal on it just to get it over to Nick's place. It was always temporary. Now that we got it driving 10x better, I can stop patching and start fixing.
:yelclap:

For now, I'll clean that terminal, reattach, and pull those grounds off and hit them with a wire brush. Then I'll figure out whether I want to redo my cables with welding cable or 5-90 pre-mades or whatever, and decide on a battery.

Also I'm going to pull that reservoir out, rinse the muddy rust out, then back flush the heater core and perform a coolant flush before refilling with either 70/30 or 50/50, read conflicting reports on this.

Then I can move on to the oil leaks, joy.

Yeah it's a Heep alright :D....but they're all heeps lol. I still wouldn't call it the worst one i've ever worked on!
 
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