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Daily Driver Alloys

Hm.. some good feedback. I will not be running hubs since this a rubicon 44 (dana 30 outers). I somehow missed CTMS response to DD, I may have to call Jack.

The reason I want alloys and joints is for one major fact, with 31s or 33s, I can wheel almost unafraid of breaking. With alloys in the axles, I will only carry one spare of shafts, rather than my normal 2 sets.

Kid, how long did you DD those joints?
 
does his rig leave the driveway? i find it nearly impossible that, that setup wold work unless strictly in soft mud. there are many people that have broken alloy axle's and high end joints with 35-37's let alone 38's
 
He said he didnt reccomend it, and it was only intended as a temporary solution but then he decided to build another more capable rig and dump all money into it. so he has just carried spares in case one lets go......they just haven't.

he runs rocks, superlift/barnwell/ clayton. I have never seen him in the local mud, but he might run that too. Keep in mind that its a disconnect so he's not applying any stress to them any other time than off road.

If the CTMs and yukons will not need to be re-built every 20k I say that is a good route to go though, because you're not going to lose a cap, which is the #1 reason for joint failure in the first place, and why it is reccomended that if you are upgrading to the 760, you should go ahead and go with full circle clips.

by disconnect, I mean it has lockout hubs. sorry for any confusion
 
goodburbon said:
no, stock joints would be the 5-297x

the 760, though made by spicer is forged, and considerably stronger than the "stock" cast u-joints.
Click to expand...
It is my understanding that the 5-297X joint has been replaced by the 760X joint and is no longer made by Spicer also, the 5-297X was forged but, just not as beefy a joint as the new 760Xs...........Hans
 
I sent off an email to Jack at CTM to hear from the horses mouth whether he backs his joints in a DD application. I am running nearly 2k miles a month, so whichever joint I decide. I will "test" for the rest of you.

Oh and terry :rattle:
 
On the topic of Cryo treated joints, what exactly is the process for doing that? Reason I ask is I have access to liquid nitrogen at work and I Could cryo treat small parts pretty easily. What else is involved besides just dropping them into the LN2?

BTW, I Will go Google to see what I can come up with just wondered if anyone here knew.
 
jjmat3 said:
On the topic of Cryo treated joints, what exactly is the process for doing that? Reason I ask is I have access to liquid nitrogen at work and I Could cryo treat small parts pretty easily. What else is involved besides just dropping them into the LN2?

BTW, I Will go Google to see what I can come up with just wondered if anyone here knew.
Click to expand...
You drop them into the liquid nitrogen, pull them out in a few minutes and then hit them with a hammer couple times.
 
Scrappy said:
I sent off an email to Jack at CTM to hear from the horses mouth whether he backs his joints in a DD application. I am running nearly 2k miles a month, so whichever joint I decide. I will "test" for the rest of you.

Oh and terry :rattle:
Click to expand...

I totally missed this thread. Any respones from CTM yet Matt?

I am interested in a high strength set of u-joints for my junk too.
 
Kejtar said:
You drop them into the liquid nitrogen, pull them out in a few minutes and then hit them with a hammer couple times.
Click to expand...


Very helpful as always. So two to three hits with the hammer should do it eh?

According to some Googling, it isn't as simple as just dropping it in the LN2 which is what I expected. I'll keep reading as I probably won't get a serious answer on here.
 
jjmat3 said:
Very helpful as always. So two to three hits with the hammer should do it eh?

According to some Googling, it isn't as simple as just dropping it in the LN2 which is what I expected. I'll keep reading as I probably won't get a serious answer on here.
Click to expand...

No, not as simple as dropping the parts in LN2.
I just got a set of WARN shafts cryoed at http://www.performancecryogenics.com/
and looking at the equipment that he has and talking with him the process takes something like 30 hours to complete depending on the stuff being cryoed. Not really something you can do in your freezer overnight. ;)
 
Seems to be a few different theories on the best process for Cryo treating parts. Interesting. Too bad it isn't as simple as just leaving the parts in the LN2 as I could even gas freeze them before and after sitting them in the liquid nitrogen for as long as necessary. I have access to large dewars of LN2 where we store aircraft parts and I could easily fit many different XJ parts in them. Guess I will drop that idea for now.

Oh well, back to the topic of how those DD alloys/joints hold up.
 
jjmat3 said:
Seems to be a few different theories on the best process for Cryo treating parts. Interesting. Too bad it isn't as simple as just leaving the parts in the LN2 as I could even gas freeze them before and after sitting them in the liquid nitrogen for as long as necessary. I have access to large dewars of LN2 where we store aircraft parts and I could easily fit many different XJ parts in them. Guess I will drop that idea for now.

Oh well, back to the topic of how those DD alloys/joints hold up.
Click to expand...

I've had some stuff cryoed, rotors, drums, .45 colt barrels for gold cups, a remington 700pss. The brakes took about 3 days. You don't just drop them in, you need to gradually cool them down over a few hours, leave them for a an alloted amount of time and then bring them backup to room temp. I had mine done in florida while we were at disney, about $75 a rotor.
They were treating whole engine blocks, suspension components, musical instruments, just about anything that you can come up with thats metal.
 
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