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Crossmember removal, Damn nutserts!

92DripCherokee

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tampa, Florida
I'm planning to replace the transmission mount. When you loosen the crossmember bolts, how do you keep the nutserts from spinning loose inside the rail? Is there any access to the nutserts if you remove the carpet and sillplates?
 
Ummm, No.
There are 2 studs and 2 bolts with frame welded nuts inside the frame rail.
Need to cut a hole in the frame rail to gain access to the broken loose weld nut, or cut the bolt. But you will still need access to the inside of the frame to replace the nut.
This is not a show stopper, it is quite easy to cut a 1 or 2 inch square in the frame to access the nut. Then just repair it with a patch. I use 1/8th inch plate for patches.

At that location there are actually 3 layers of sheet metal inside the frame rail. Not sure, but best I can recall from the last I was inside one, coming from the outside would be the best bet.
Some one else chime in here. I recall the three layers of sheet metal and the foam insulation but which side would be best to come from to get to the weld nut.
 
92DripCherokee said:
I'm planning to replace the transmission mount. When you loosen the crossmember bolts, how do you keep the nutserts from spinning loose inside the rail? Is there any access to the nutserts if you remove the carpet and sillplates?

As mentioned, there are no nutserts, there are just welded nuts in the framerail and you don't need to worry about it. If you bust the nut... er... well... yeah, you need to do as stated above. I suggest liberal coating of PB blaster so you won't have to clean up any busted nuts...thats just wrong.
 
Why not use a nutsert instead of cutting into the framerail and just let the old weld nut run amuck in there? Wouldn't that have enough holding power?
 
I just drilled through both holes on each side of the crossmember with the carpet pulled up. Put new bolts down and put a washer and nut on the corssmember side. Seemed like the easiest, most straightforward thing to do and its easy to take out the tranny next time I need to.
Good Luck
 
I wish rivets could hold enough load to substitute for the nuts and bolts.
No overtorquing or seized fasteners to worry about, no access hole needed.

when the cross member comes off, just drill the rivet out, and press a new one in.
 
TheNerd said:
As mentioned, there are no nutserts, there are just welded nuts in the framerail and you don't need to worry about it. If you bust the nut... er... well... yeah, you need to do as stated above. I suggest liberal coating of PB blaster so you won't have to clean up any busted nuts...thats just wrong.

Hmmm. My 89 has nutserts, one of which was spinning so I tacked it in place with the welder. Maybe the previous owner or shop used nutserts when they did the clutch work? They were still metric threaded.
 
All years used nutcerts,replacements are available from Jeep!
 
No worries anymore, the nuts and bolts turned without a problem, and the welded nut/nutserts inside stayed intact. I was worried about nothing, after reading up on other's experiences with seized and galled fasteners I was prepared to use dynamite. A leaking transmission is good for something! The whole crossmember is a hollow grease trap. The trans fluid kept the threads from rust welding! yeehaw!
 
Matt, you have clean jeep. I am from Santa Maria, and am down there frequently, to play golf at VAFB, Marisalles Ranch. Anyways nice jeep.
 
Thanks, Ben! I used to be in the AF stationed at VAFB. Not much of a golfer, but been to plenty of other events out at the Ranch.

That '00 Limited is for sale if anyone's interested. The '97 Sport I just bought (not even a week ago) is its replacement. :) The '00 is fantastic off road, but a bit too harsh for me for a DD. I can't afford to strip it down and build it back up and keep it as a trailer queen, or I would. (Besides, I have no tow vehicle or trailer!)

I'd love to go wheelin' with ya sometime. My wife ('95 YJ) and I are members of the Santa Maria Jeep Club and a few other wheelin' clubs. Judging by the pic in your sig, you've got tons more experience at this than I do. I've got gobs of questions and would love to pick your brain.
 
Mattyboy said:
For what it's worth, one of the nutserts, or welded nuts, or whatever they are broke loose on my '00 when I was installing my lift. Here's how I fixed it.

http://www.luckydevil.com/jeep/2000_cherokee/image_display.asp?strSourcePage=/jeep/2000_cherokee/suspension.asp&strStep=35

If you have access to a welder, you're in business.
Clever fix. Those look like welded nuts instead of nutserts. http://www.avdel.textron.com/brochures/threaded_inserts/html_tables/fs38.htm
 
Right on. The Sierra Chapter is having a Pismo gathering in June, you should try to make it out there for that. I will be down in that area the first week of April, to do some wheeling around Pozo, and Los Alamos. I will hit you up when it gets closer. What is your work schedule like?

Sorry to Hijack this mug.

Mattyboy said:
Thanks, Ben! I used to be in the AF stationed at VAFB. Not much of a golfer, but been to plenty of other events out at the Ranch.

That '00 Limited is for sale if anyone's interested. The '97 Sport I just bought (not even a week ago) is its replacement. :) The '00 is fantastic off road, but a bit too harsh for me for a DD. I can't afford to strip it down and build it back up and keep it as a trailer queen, or I would. (Besides, I have no tow vehicle or trailer!)

I'd love to go wheelin' with ya sometime. My wife ('95 YJ) and I are members of the Santa Maria Jeep Club and a few other wheelin' clubs. Judging by the pic in your sig, you've got tons more experience at this than I do. I've got gobs of questions and would love to pick your brain.
 
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