Coolant bottle

[jeepchkee]

Thanks for the post to the aluminum tanks. Been looking all over. Hope to get one soon.

 

[winterbeater]

The metal tanks are cool, but should have a way to know the coolant level visually.

 

[Ritter4.0]

I dont have a problem with this area, i have problem with top portion where the cap screws on. (Brand new tank and cap after a month) It looses its holding ability very easily. The only way around it that i see, is getting a metal one.

or you can put electrical tape around the threads on the bottle. This helps it to actually tighten, its worked for me so far.

What if you took a small air compressor tank and used that? Given you had the space to put it, wouldnt it help to keep your engine cooler because of more coolant that can flow through?

You know those hoses that come off the water pump that go to the bottle? What if you replaced those with copper, wouldnt that help to cool the coolant even more?

 

[Jess]

or you can put electrical tape around the threads on the bottle. This helps it to actually tighten, its worked for me so far.

What if you took a small air compressor tank and used that? Given you had the space to put it, wouldnt it help to keep your engine cooler because of more coolant that can flow through?

You know those hoses that come off the water pump that go to the bottle? What if you replaced those with copper, wouldnt that help to cool the coolant even more?

How much copper would you use? When the motor moves it would have to allow for flex.

I have one of the tanks listed at the first of the thread and it works great. After spending an extra 4 hours less than 500 yards from the end of a trail in 25* temps because of a busted (new OE) pressure bottle, that was money well spent and one less "weak link" that needs attention.

 

[5-90]

How much copper would you use? When the motor moves it would have to allow for flex.

I have one of the tanks listed at the first of the thread and it works great. After spending an extra 4 hours less than 500 yards from the end of a trail in 25* temps because of a busted (new OE) pressure bottle, that was money well spent and one less "weak link" that needs attention.

There are pix of a "total" heater plumbing replacement setup on an 88 on my site - the main runs, flush tee, and backflow valve are all copper (or brass,) and there are "vibration stubs" of rubber hose to connect the metal plumbing to the engine.

You need to leave about 1" of "air space" between the copper lines and the various fixed hose connections, and have the heater hose overlap by about 1-1/2" onto the copper (since it won't have a bead to help seal, smear with RTV and double-clamp. Leave ~1/4" of hose past the "outside" clamp, and 1/4" or so between clamps.)

It's held up for years.

 

[jeepchkee]

Just had to replace my coolant cap. It actually blew off and disappeared somewhere. Got one "universal" from autozone. It seems to fit a lot tighter and you can't overtighten it and strip it out. Not recommending it yet, but it seems to seal and tighten down alot better than the OE cap. Will let you know after a good trial period.

 

[Muad'Dib]

It will start stripping after the first time the Jeep warms up and you take it off.

If you dont want to spring for a metal bottle, put a hose clamp around the cap. Works great.

Dont use teflon tape, or electrical tape ... it doesnt work very well.

 

[YEAGS]

have the same problem with mine. And as advised on here i went down to the junkyard and picked up an overflow bottle from a mid 90s dodge intrepid for 6$. Its all metal with a metal radiator cap and wrapped in in plastic similar to that of the OE jeep bottle put it on yesterday and i havent had any problems. No more leaks or smells.