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Confirm my suspicions? (Main Bearing Replacement Write-Up?)

Re: Confirm my suspicions?

JS4309 said:
Must have been an older MRI machine as the newer ones use less power, my last MRI a year ago February they said the your belt and everything on and I was all the way in the thing and nothing happened with the belt. They even left the metal splint on my arm. They had to do my right shoulder that I njured in a fall and found three tears in the rotator cuff, two of which were old (one from a wreck 2 years earlier). Anyway the power is way down on the newer machines and won't pull stuff out of you...or off!

JS
I'd guess it was a CAT Scan and not an MRI. BTW, carrying a firearm into the room is also a very bad idea. http://www.ajronline.org/cgi/content/full/178/5/1092 This 9mm fired upon impact with the machine even though the safety was on.
 
Re: Confirm my suspicions?

cklaus said:
your belt is firmly enough attached that it wouldn't go anywhere. a piece of metal in your eye (even after it was removed) should be mentioned to the Doctors and MRI techs (there could be other metal in your eye they missed). I'm a 2nd year medical student and we were just in the hospital the other day getting our training on all the diagnostic imaging equipment. The major problem with small pieces of metal like that isn't only the magnetic force that will pull on the piece of metal (it may be secure enough to not get pulled through your eyeball) but the fact that the magnetic field is rotating and it will therefor cause the metal to want to snap in the other direction so it is in proper alignment again with the magnetic field. That is why they can't do MRI's on patients who have surgically repaired brain anyeurisms. Because in the days before Titanium was used, the older metal clips used to tie off blood vessels were magnetic and when the magnetic field would rotate around the patient, the little metal clip would want to snap backwards to be in alignment with the field. The new MRI machines are still strong enough to pull metal objects flying across the room. we had to removed all of our metal items including watches... but belt buckles where okay b/c they were secured. The lab tech walked in the room with a dog leash. Holding on to the handle, he let the metal clasp go and it went flying towards the machine. IT HOVERED IN MID AIR. Then he handed us a pair of hemostats (think surgical needle nose pliers) and you could feel the pull on them, but then he told you to hold them upright, instead of poinging at the machine, and once you overpowered the force to hold it upright, it jerked the hemostats back. He also pointed out the deep scratches all over the entrance to the machine that had occured from all the metal objects that have flown into it... people forgot to empty their pockets. The janitorial crew apparently forgets to use the aluminum latter to change light bulbs as well and the big wooden latter with little steel screws goes flying onto it. FYI, they keep those machines on 24-7 b/c it costs more to turn them on and generate the field from a cold standstill then it does to keep it running 24-7 with moderate use. You definatly want to let them know if you have any lead pellets (from BB guns) or other such metallic objects in your body as well. Copper BB's should be okay as they aren't metallic but the techs and docs still want to know as it will definatly interest them when they see it in your body.
Sorry to be so long winded but i didn't want for ANYONE to read this thread and get hurt if they went in for an MRI thinking they would be okay with any such mislead info. I am definatly not an authority on MRI but I think the dozens of classes and hands on MRI training gives me a little more insight. If you are going in for an MRI, consult your doctor on anything like this that you may be concerened about (any pieces of metal in your body, etc) that is what they are there for.

enterkey.gif

Billy :)
 
Re: Confirm my suspicions?

Well, after removing the front clip, radiator, fans, fan shroud, water pump pully, starter, alternator, alternator bracket, harmonic dampener, timing chain cover, timing chain, cam shaft pulley, trans inspection plate, and flex plate bolts, I think I'm going to reinstall the bad bearing. I can't get the SOB's out with the crank in place!

Per 5-90's advice, I've run the main bearing cap bolts out a 1/4", removed the timing chain, and unbolted the flex plate, but I can only get the bearing to move about 1/8". I'm pushing on it with some brazing rod. I can't move the tranny back (at this point) because I don't have a tranny jack :(

How much does it cost to build a stroker? :(

Any advice would be appreciated.
Billy
 
Re: Confirm my suspicions?

I am surprised no one mentiond using plastigage to check the bearing clearence. I would do that before deciding if new bearings were needed. What was your oil pressure like before tearing it down? If it was low, replacing the rod bearings will make a big difference.

I recently opened up the crank bearings on my 92 with 240+k miles and they were fine! I did replace the rod bearings though.
 
Re: Confirm my suspicions?

sjx40250 said:
I am surprised no one mentiond using plastigage to check the bearing clearence. I would do that before deciding if new bearings were needed. What was your oil pressure like before tearing it down? If it was low, replacing the rod bearings will make a big difference.

I recently opened up the crank bearings on my 92 with 240+k miles and they were fine! I did replace the rod bearings though.

Well, I learned about platigage though searching, but I can't get to the area above the crank, and if I use it below the crank, the weight of the crank itself will throw off the measurement.

Besides, I was going off the assumption that the scratch I put in the bearing made it bad.

My oil pressure was decent judging by the guage on the dash. I didn't check it any more thoroughly than that because I wasn't even considering changing the bearings until I scratched one.

Thanks,
Billy
 
Re: Confirm my suspicions?

sjx40250 said:
I am surprised no one mentiond using plastigage to check the bearing clearence. I would do that before deciding if new bearings were needed. What was your oil pressure like before tearing it down? If it was low, replacing the rod bearings will make a big difference.

I recently opened up the crank bearings on my 92 with 240+k miles and they were fine! I did replace the rod bearings though.

Actually I DID mention plastigauge....

And I wouldn't leave those bearings in there, you CAN get them out, it just takes patience and make sure your going the right way or the notches will destroy the crank.
As for not being able to move the tranny, use a floor jack. I made a base for my floor jack that makes it usable as a tranny jack too, but I have used a plain old floor jack, and even no jack to remove transmissions and transfercases....and believe me, that tranny and transfer case don't weigh near as much as a Turbo 350 & NP203 that were in my 78 Blazer! I put them in together by myself.

JS
 
Re: Main Bearing Replacement Write-Up?

well there's honestly not much to it....get the old pieces out put the new pieces in... For the crank his directions are pretty much as specific as you need to do the job. For the rod bearings the only thing I would add is that I rotated each cylinder until it was about 1/2 - 1" from the bottom of its rotation...remove the lower cap then rotate the crank the rest of the way down, this will separate the crank from the rod and give you some space to remove the upper bearing...put everything back together then rotate the crank back up to the rod and reinstall the lower cap...repeat for each cylinder. The only thing you need to be really careful about is that the "outside" of each bearing needs to be COMPLETELY clean and dry, that is the side of the bearing that DOES NOT come in contact with the crank. Otherwise you'll spin a bearing in a heartbeat.
 
Re: Main Bearing Replacement Write-Up?

JeepFreak21 said:
Anybody know of a write-up for replacing the main bearings? I'm planning on doing this with the crank in place and motor installed.
I'm replacing them because I scratched one while doing the rear main seal
mad.gif

A write-up would be great, but if anybody has any tips, that would be great too.
Thanks,
Billy
crank in place? is this possible? I'm almost positive you'll have to drop the crankshaft to install the new bearings, as I remember, they are two piece and one half goes against the block and the other goes against the bearing cap. and as stated above you'll have to ensure the surfaces between the non-crankshaft components and the bearing are clean/dry, it would seem you HAVE to drop the crank, of course you could leave the block in place, that's been discussed ad nauseum...

can you clarify?

EDIT: I went to the link that was posted, and ok sure, that will work, but I would avoid that procedure if you have any choice whatsoever, that's 6 different opportunities to screw up either your new bearings, bearing caps, piston rods, and or rod end caps. just too much to go wrong, at least in my opinion, and not to mention you'll be doing all this on a creeper and I hate overheat work...:)
 
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Re: Main Bearing Replacement Write-Up?

Well, I went to Harbor Freight today to get a tranny jack, hoping that if I pulled the transmission back a little, it would give me a little more room to get the upper halves out. I ended up scoring the floor model for 75% off ($26 out the door
dancingcool.gif
).

So, naturally, I came home and tried it one more time before unbolting the tranny.... this little tip did the trick
bowdown.gif

Tampa_XJ said:
...remove the lower cap then rotate the crank the rest of the way down, this will separate the crank from the rod and give you some space to remove the upper bearing...

So, I only did one (because I was short on time), but I'm hoping the rest come out in a similar fashion (I'm expecting a fight from the thrust bearing). My next question... can anybody confirm this:
Tampa_XJ said:
...the "outside" of each bearing needs to be COMPLETELY clean and dry, that is the side of the bearing that DOES NOT come in contact with the crank. Otherwise you'll spin a bearing in a heartbeat.

It's not that I don't believe you, Tampa (especially after your last trick), it's just not the answer I want to hear. :D Will I be able to get the new bearing in without lubing it?

Thanks for the help,
Billy
 
Re: Main Bearing Replacement Write-Up?

avnsteve said:
...I would avoid that procedure if you have any choice whatsoever, that's 6 different opportunities to screw up either your new bearings, bearing caps, piston rods, and or rod end caps. just too much to go wrong, at least in my opinion, and not to mention you'll be doing all this on a creeper and I hate overhead work...:)

Pulling the engine is the only thing I want to do less than changing these bearings with the crank in place. I hate overhead work too.
Billy
 
One IMPORTANT thing, cleck the bearing clearances :lecture:!!. The 4.0 is assembled with a choice of bearings. There are STD and +.001"

I would check the clearances with plastigage before replacing them. I did it on my 99 and 4 of the mains had a +.001, 5 of the rods have a +.001. They come matched to the particular journal dimension. If you replace a STD with a +.001, it will lock or spin and if the other way around you'll have too much clearance and lower oil pressure. The rod bearings are not that bad $ and Advace AP has them, the mains are dealer only and about $20 a piece.

BTW, the 'odd' bearings can be matched to an STD, so you may end with a +.001 and a STD in the same journal. The only thing is that the +.001 are supposed to be on the same side and on the top.

This is as per the FSM...... and my XJ had it. Now it runs smooth as a baby's rear and chatterless.:roll:
 
Re: Main Bearing Replacement Write-Up?

Tampa_XJ said:
The only thing you need to be really careful about is that the "outside" of each bearing needs to be COMPLETELY clean and dry, that is the side of the bearing that DOES NOT come in contact with the crank. Otherwise you'll spin a bearing in a heartbeat.

My Haynes manual says this regarding main bearing installation:
Haynes said:
Clean the bearing faces in the block, then apply a thin, uniform layer of moly-base grease or engine assembly lube to each of the bearing surfaces. Be sure to coat the thrust faces as well as the journal face of the thrust bearing.

Now, I'm not clear on what they mean and if that, in itself, contradicts what you said... but they don't say to make sure the back side of the bearings are completely dry.

Does anybody have any input on this?

Thanks,
Billy
 
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