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Compressor Differences between R12 and R134?

I hate a/c threads becuase I never feel like I get anywhere with my answer.

I'm more confused than I would have been if I bought the damn thing and just tried it. I wish my a/c would just effing work.
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
I hate a/c threads becuase I never feel like I get anywhere with my answer.

I'm more confused than I would have been if I bought the damn thing and just tried it. I wish my a/c would just effing work.

Most of the answers seem to be in the thread.
The filler valves are different for an R-12 and R-134 system. When you say swap the compressor, is it with the valves? Do the existing hoses (plumbing) match the different valves? Does your replacement compressor fit the mount or does it come with a mount? Check the oil in your new compressor.
Guys have swapped over to 134 using the R-12 expansion valve, but changing to a R-134 expansion valve (if it wasn't already done in your last R-134 conversion) would probably work better, it was recommended to change the valve anyway because it may be plugged if your last compressor had a mechanical meltdown. You might try cleaning your old expansion valve if necessary and you want to try cheap. Expansion valves are freon specific, but most of their function is temperature control and the temperature difference between R-12 and R-134 is likely minimal. You may still have the R-12 expansion valve in your system (it usually says what type valve it is on the top), I don't know if it was replaced during your R-134 conversion.
The old oil left in the lines is likely contaminated, with trash, moisture or maybe what caused your original problem, which may have been incompatible oils. R-12 and R 134 use different refrigerant oils and from what I understand they aren't compatible.
Replacing the filter is always advisable, they remove moisture and moisture inside the system is real bad. The filters do eventually absorb all the moisture they are going to and become ineffective.
Pulling a vacuum on the system is recommended, the next best thing is a refrigerant purge, to remove as much air as possible. Air can really run the pressures up quick (over pressure), air contains moisture and air doesn't help any with cooling.
I'm curious as to what type of compressor you are getting. I don't know it to be a fact, but I've heard sometime in the late 90's they changed to a capillary system instead of an expansion valve (a good question for 5-90 to research).
Not many answers, but maybe a few usable questions. I've got no doubt I could make it work, i have a garage full of fittings and refrigeration tools.
If you decide that the newer compressor isn't going to be simple or easy to install and decide to go back to an R-12 compressor (which will pump an R-134 system with some additional stress) you may have a leak problem because of the higher pressures. Though it was mentioned that the highest pressure, isn't that much higher. It's recommended to change the HPRV (high pressure release valve) from the R-12 type to the R-134 type. And you are going to have to change the oil in the new compressor (if an R-12 type) to an R-134 compatible oil.
The high pressure relief valve makes a heck of a racket when it releases and sounds just like a bad piston or broken rod. Lowering the pressure a little often lets the valve reset and the noise goes away. Changing to a R-134 HPRV, may keep the system from popping the R-12 pressure release valve at typical R-134 operation pressures.
Some of what I've posted here is Sanden specific, but there are other model compressors in XJ's depending on the model run and sometimes there just different in the same model year.
I detest working on automotive systems, they aren't mechanic friendly.
Some of the guys on the board may have somethings to add or correct if I've misspoken, forgotten something relevant or made a mistake.
 
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They added this paragraph to the compressor manual in 95 after the change over to 134a. I wonder why they put it in there if it "never" happens. I guess it was just something to keep the engineers busy.

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I looked for quite some time for a new compressor for my 85 jeep, looking for an R-134a cpmpressor, mainly being concerned about the elastomeric seals in an R12 compressor not holding up to R134a. Never did find one. Finally installed a new R12 compressor (Sanden 505 IIRC), charged it with R134a and IIRC 8 oz of PAG oil, but I did not drain the OEM compressor oil, nor did I flush the system. I did replace the hoses with R134a barier hose and replaced the filter dryer. The Condensor and accumulator were already just a few months old. I also added an electric fan with the new condenser, since the 2.5 L, 85 model never had one.

On my 87, I switched the old compressor over to R134a recently. New hoses, new filter dryer, new expansion valve (but it was not really needed, long story), new port valves for R134a, and added 8 oz of PAG oil. left the old compressor oil in the compresor. The condenser was blown out and cleaned.

Both systems are working fine. The 85 was slowly leaking oil out the front shaft seal into the clutch, still have it, replaced the compressor when the shaft seal got too large.

I did a lot of research on all this the last few years, and some of the answers and questions have changed during that time. Up until recently it was beleived that R-12 oil (mineral oil) and PAG & PE? (one is a glycol and the other an ester oil) were not compatible, but most shops now admit that all three are compatible.

It is highly recomended that all the hoses be upgraded to "HCFC barrier hose" when switching to R134a, from R12. On older R12 jeeps you need to replace the HPLP (High Pressure Low Presure cut out switch) which is attached to the new Filter dryers already, which also should be replaced any time you open a system.

Beyond, that it's a matter of finding and fixed failed parts and getting and holding a good vacuum on the system to verify it is leak proof, before adding oil and R134a.

Personally I don't think there is any real concern running R-134a in the older R-12 compressors. From what I have read, there are probably 50 million of them doing it now with no problem.
 
This thread needs to die a horrible horrible death
 
Ok, I'm bringing this thing back to life... and I hope that I can just get my questions answered.

I just bought a brand new Sanden Compressor off ebay, part #55037359AB, which if I got my research right is 94-96 XJ, 4.0L w/134A. Got it for $135 shipped, so a good deal compared to what else I've found.

I read through this thread again and it appears I need to pick up the following:
R134 Expansion Valve
Filter (aka receiver/dryer)

I'll need to get the system evacuated before starting, and then after the new parts are in I need to get a vaccum pulled on it, then recharged.

Is that correct? What am I missing here. I plan to do all the hard parts labor myself and only use a shop for the vaccum, evac, and recharge. Are there any other parts I likely should replace (I had a catastrophic seizure and belt shredding) ? Lines? Condensor? I would love for this to be the last time I ever have to do a/c work, but have a budget to think about as well. Where can I pick up the remaining parts for a reasonable cost?

Thanks
 
XJRubicon said:
You are a real know it all aren't you?

No need to take an attitude old man.

Does it annoy you that I proved you wrong or whats the deal?

You wanna come feel my AC?




Yeah... that never happens...
I quit caring what you said when you had probably the most intelligent person in this forum (5-90) talking to you and you tried to flame him...dumbass:yelclap:
 
IslanderOffRoad said:
Ok, I'm bringing this thing back to life... and I hope that I can just get my questions answered.

I read through this thread again and it appears I need to pick up the following:
R134 Expansion Valve
Filter (aka receiver/dryer)

I'll need to get the system evacuated before starting, and then after the new parts are in I need to get a vaccum pulled on it, then recharged.-------

Are there any other parts I likely should replace (I had a catastrophic seizure and belt shredding) ? Lines? Condensor?
Thanks

If you haven't done so, you should flush every component you intend on reusing, including the condenser, all lines, and the evaporator.
 
Unless the rubber hoses are already new, I would replace them for sure. Find a specialty auto AC shop that makes up hose sets from scratch on site. I got mine for under $40.

Also solvent flush and dry the condenser. Blow it out with compressed air to dry it.
 
jeepman121 said:
I quit caring what you said when you had probably the most intelligent person in this forum (5-90) talking to you and you tried to flame him...dumbass:yelclap:

can a mod please clean this pissing match out of the thread.

after reading thorough it again there is alot of useful information between the e-penis contest.
 
xjbubba said:
If you haven't done so, you should flush every component you intend on reusing, including the condenser, all lines, and the evaporator.

what does flushing them involve? is this something i should have a shop do?
 
Ecomike said:
Unless the rubber hoses are already new, I would replace them for sure. Find a specialty auto AC shop that makes up hose sets from scratch on site. I got mine for under $40.

Also solvent flush and dry the condenser. Blow it out with compressed air to dry it.

anywhere i can buy ones that are pre-made to fit my jeep? what about the hard lines?

what solvent do i flush it with? is it something i can safely do myself, or should i have a shop use some special equipment to flush the whole system together?
 
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