Back to basics, when it heats up to 150 and the motor shuts down, test for fuel pressure while cranking. Then test for spark.
Two things I've found that may kill an engine when it goes from open to closed loop (around 150) is a faulty O2 sensor. O2 sensors can be mostly failed and not throw a code. O2 sensor wires burning on the exhaust in the rear or the exhaust manifold in the front is often a possibility.
Check the supply voltage to the CPS circuit, some sensors share a supply voltage. When one sensor partially shorts out it can draw the supply voltage down so low other sensors on the power supply tree give faulty readings. The fix is simple, unplug the sensors one at a time and see which one is drawing the supply voltage down, unless it is a shorted wire then it gets more difficult.
And lastly ignition coils are known to be heat sensitive, a visual spark check will usually tell you if it is a coil. They can completely fail or partially fail. A partial failure usually causes a very weak spark.
I've had poor luck relying on the CEL codes, low supply voltage, for whatever reason, gives faulty or irrelevant codes.
I'm not sure if your sensor supply voltage is 7 or 5 volts it is usually one or the other depending on year.
I'v never seen it but it seems probably a shorted injector could be over heating the injector drivers and they are shutting down. If my other suggestions don't help, Ohm test the injectors. They should all have about the same Ohms, if one is way low or zero Ohms you have found a problem.
I've changed one sensor on a hunch in the last 30 years and I was wrong. Now I test.