clutch replacement options?what are you using???

[jeeperjohn]

If they took off like .075" or more I could see a possibility of a problem, but if the flywheel needed that much material removed, it should be replaced anyway.

 

[Russ Pottenger]

I'm with cal and vetteboy. My Toyota truck that I bought new in 85 went just under 300K before I had to replace the clutch. It has been used as my shop truck so although it has been well taken care of, it by no means been pampered. So when it came time to replace the clutch it was a no brainer. I was off to the dealer to purchase a new clutch and pressure plate, and get the flywheel surfaced.
My reservation with using the centerforce clutch is in the pressure plate design. If anything gets on those sliding centrifugal weights and keeps them from freely sliding, the clutch will go out of balance.

Russ

 

[markaboo929]

yup i agree one turn and yer done-new flywheel time.Yes the only issues you have are with "stepped flywheels" where the pressure plate sits on a lip[ and the disc sits lower.But if it was turned by previus owner and it was cut by a nit-wit and took off too much.On the 4.0 flywheel it is NOT stepped so the clutch will fully engage when off the pedal.THATS where slippage would ocurr only if the release bearing is sitting tight against the pressure plate "fingers" that would cause slippage as well...thats where the ctutch rod - slave cylinder match relation is.I just really want a good strong - lasting clutch - clamp pressure and friction material that will stand to our use....... great to have as many responces/posts on this subject-thats why we are here on modified anyways----is'nt it?????? :: atriot: yes every issue set up is different,but,knowing what to do before hand makes it that much more worth the satisfaction you get from actually fixxing/modifying/up grading YOU"RE SELF!!!!! well kinda......................

 

[cal]

Resurfacing the flywheel should have no effect on clutch arm travel as the mounting surface for the pressure plate is also machined. They will only take off a few thousandths so it should have a negligible effect on the clutch if any.

Thats true in every setup except the internal slave, where the slave cylinder doesnt move closer with the clutch when the pressure plate does.

A few thousands will make no difference, but I've seen people cut 20-30 thousands, which can start to matter.

On the other hand, if your flywheel got hot alot and was glazed, a new clutch may not hook up that well either. *not* surfacing it can cause as much problems as surfacing it.

 

[mtruckstuff]

My advice
1. "Machine", ie. "grind" not turn the flywheel.
2. Replace "ALL" parts, ie. disc, pressure plate, throwout, pilot.
3. Avoid aftermarket "upgrades" (centerforce) at all costs. If you're hard on clutches, you'll screw up expensive stuff just as quick as cheap stuff. Throwing money at uncoordination doesn't compensate for it.

190K + on my stock '97 AX-15, still runs perfect. New "factory" clutch this week and only because of my NV3550 upgrade. Why mess with that which works?

If you wear out stock clutches, you're better off getting an automatic(one less pedal, eh?).

*Good used AX-15/231 available for sale, make me an offer*

Paul

 

[markaboo929]

actually I posted about a kevlar clutch set up I am recieving for free product testing from ZOOM clutches directly.They are comming out with a jeep aplication with a cryogenic process flywheel and pressure plate,with a kevlar disc,and release bearing!!!!! So i get my new flywheel after all!!!!!!!!!! check it at my post-search for "kevlar clutch" its not even on there website yet,they want to know how it will be for rockkrawling,offroad and heavy slippage use,plus daily driver feel and relaeseing properties.I just also installed an aussie locker in the front dana 30 plus new 760 x u joints , just waitin on clutch to get er in an bring down the hammer!!!!!!!!

 

[markaboo929]

mtruckstuff I quote yer wer"ds "Throwing money at uncoordination doesn't compensate for it."
I learned how to drive a manual trans,manual steering,manual braked car,23 years ago,please chose wisely to something you do not know the facts on.I have owned my jeep for 8 years now,swithced it from a puke joe to an nv3550.I installed a new luk clutch 75,000 miles ago when i did the install,I only slip my clutch on take off,I do not even aplly the gas until my foot is fully off the clutch pedal,I have been wheeling for quite some time now,Think about this,with an automatic if yer wheel starts to spin then all of a sudden catches,there is nothing that you can do to avoid the inevidable damge done,with a stick just step on the clutch to completely disconect the drive train,well at least for me that is an "automatic" reaction i have developed.its kinda a feel thing with the throttle and clutch,which brings up the issue with slipping the clutch on the rocks,thats coordination.the heat build up is the issue ,hense the kevlar clutch products out there.I have been doing some research after i posted this thread.I wasnt to sure of spending the money either,but you have to understand what the hell is a stock clutch designed for?? stock driving.otherwise why cant you go rock krawling or heavy offroading with a stock XJ jeep?think about it..................... except for the rubbicon,but how many of thoise are sticks?

 

[MudDawg]

Just my opinion on the stick vs auto thing....based on my 40 years (not a typo...I have been driving since 13) of driving experience...I have found it far easier to control the wheel speed and spin with an auto...also it allows much more finesse, plus the torque multiplication gives a much lower effective crawl ratio....the only serious problem is the lack of engine braking....and if you are geared down, you need good brakes on any down hill....Sticks are way cool, especially on the street...I love bangin gears....but when I'm door jamb deep or looking for the best line...I'll take my trusty auto.

 

[markaboo929]

thats cool muddawg,thats why everyoines jeep is not the same.just like my friend said years ago to his dad when we were kids I quote this "dad says-why cant you be like danny? larry replies-thats why my name is larry and not danny!" god i love that...............:smoker: plus thats what my jeep came with when i bought it.yes it probably is easier with an auto-but I have been different all my life!!!!!!!!:twak: pklus my jeep is black,red and white all over!!!!! literally..............

 

[godesshunter]

perhaps i should have started a new thread but this one seems to be on a roll i joined this forum for one purpose...decide what clutch to buy i hear alot of opinions here and no facts i just put 32's on my 98,4.0 4.5" xj abolutely destroyed my oem style brand new clutch after the first real nasty mud pit with the new tires i mean it had less than 1400 miles or about 5 mud runs with the small tires on it.. with the flywheel machined by a local professional machine shop, torqued and properly broken in before wheelin' i did everything absloutly correct and it still didnt hold up. no power modifications at all bone stock drivetrain i think what everybody wants to know is does anybody have actual long-term personal input on after market clutches and for people like me that dosnt mean miles or price its about mud and rocks what will hold up to off-road abuse thanks

 

[markaboo929]

Ahh finaly someone else has to agree with me.I recieved a test unit clutch from Zoomclutch.I was lloking to the same thing as you are,but got way too many negitive stuff so I quit posting here...till now.The test unit I got is made from 100% kevlar disc,cryogenic processed flywheel and pressure plate,with more torque capacity than stock.I do have performance mods to my application.I can tell you this ,I have beat on this clutch,as intended,and is fenominal.Actually the more I slip it and ride it,the better it grabs when hot.The pedal pressure is the same hot,cold,street use.Not the usual smell or chatter you get,never chattered once.They have since posted it up on there web site.I will provide a link.I have to get them some pictures to put up on there web of my vehicle and where it is being used and how,etc........OK here is the link www.zoomclutch.com/09-20-07_zoom_weekly.html cut and paste,or click on it.If you would like specific info or want to know what I am using in my 88 jeep cherokee,feel free to post.This is what I was waiting for--to be able to post my results and what I think about it,Just that too many conttradicting nay sayers on "stock werks great for me" but I always wondered why in the hell do we go dana 44 conversion,dana 60 conversion,transfer case doublers ,yada yada,but still use the same clutch? Or at least thats what I feel has been left out.Glad to see someone agree with my views as well.Hope this helps you

 

[markaboo929]

found my old link.interesting reading..NOW
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=919616

 

[vetteboy]

Just that too many conttradicting nay sayers on "stock werks great for me" but I always wondered why in the hell do we go dana 44 conversion,dana 60 conversion,transfer case doublers ,yada yada,but still use the same clutch? Or at least thats what I feel has been left out.Glad to see someone agree with my views as well.Hope this helps you

God damn it, this again? :kissyou:

The reason I see no need for a clutch upgrade is because I've not upgraded the motor significantly, and the clutch doesn't care what comes after it. The motor is still putting out the same torque whether I've got a Dana 35 or Rockwells.

My OEM replacement clutch has now gone through a year of some of the most severe wheeling in the country (and two competition events) with no measurable or noticeable wear. It hasn't slipped or malfunctioned even once, yet I've broken two stock front 60 shafts, one alloy 35-spline outer shaft, a D60 Detroit, a 30-spline drive flange, and a 35-spline drive flange. It continues to give me great modulation and holding power on the trail with a reasonable amount of pedal effort, and the takeup is smooth and consistent on the road. A++ will buy again.

 

[89xj]

perhaps i should have started a new thread but this one seems to be on a roll i joined this forum for one purpose...decide what clutch to buy i hear alot of opinions here and no facts i just put 32's on my 98,4.0 4.5" xj abolutely destroyed my oem style brand new clutch after the first real nasty mud pit with the new tires i mean it had less than 1400 miles or about 5 mud runs with the small tires on it.. with the flywheel machined by a local professional machine shop, torqued and properly broken in before wheelin' i did everything absloutly correct and it still didnt hold up. no power modifications at all bone stock drivetrain i think what everybody wants to know is does anybody have actual long-term personal input on after market clutches and for people like me that dosnt mean miles or price its about mud and rocks what will hold up to off-road abuse thanks

did you regear the axles with the addition of larger tires?

there is no need for a clutch upgrade with larger tires as long as the axles are regeared to match the increase in tire size.

its just mechanical advantage. mechanical advantage has decreased because the tire curcumference has increased. the motor will not put out any more power than it has, so the driveline has more load on it because it is harder to turn a larger tire than a smaller tire. because there is more load/force in the driveline, something needs to give. in this case its the clutch, in an auto the torque convertor makes up for it. after that, a broken ujoint and so on....

 

[markaboo929]

God damn it, this again? :kissyou:
BINGO!!!! you win the "why I do not post here anymore " award of the day.
Thank you for confirming that..........I only responded to the reply because of an email I recieved.

 

[markaboo929]

Thank You 89xj--------- there's the reason I was looking for- well not me- I already knew that.:rof:the clutch is the link between the trans and engine.The first place the load is absorbed.

 

[Jes]

...i think what everybody wants to know is does anybody have actual long-term personal input on after market clutches and for people like me that dosnt mean miles or price its about mud and rocks what will hold up to off-road abuse thanks

No experience with aftermarket but I have over 100,000 on my current OEM clutch(AX15 trans) and have run a TON of rock trails in the five years it's been in there. It's lived through 33s, 35s, and now 37s with no signs of slippage whatsoever. I just bought a new OEM clutch, slave, and flywheel to install with my new engine and am looking forward to another trouble free 100,000+ miles.