chunk broke off head, lower tstat housing bolt on 4.0

[Ecomike]

LOL, no guts, no glory!!!!

I would use stainless steel filled epoxy on that, with out trying to braze or weld. I would also use a stud bolt during the epoxy job, in which case I would use stainless steel!!! I would use excess epoxy on both outside edges of each crack between the part and the head, leaving about 1" of epoxy on the head side to add strength. I have used metal filled epoxy on tougher jobs than that! Then permatex copper silicone sealant on both sides of the gasket.

 

[Motorcharge]

I was thinking of JB Weld on the stud/inside and over the cracks on the outside then using a high temp silicone around the bottom of the tstat housing to keep anything from seeping out.

What's the benefit of stainless steel epoxy over jb weld?

 

[Ecomike]

JB weld is an epoxy (sorry I am a chemist, LOL), and there are several brands, but I think JB has several flavors, one being a stainless steel filled epoxy (?), but I may be thinking of another brand? It won't corrode, and can be filed flat, machined so to speak, and will hold up better, stronger than just epoxy. But reading this:

http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

JBweld should work fine. I had forgotten it has steel in it.

I think there are 3 or 4 brands around now. Like this one:

http://www.permatex.com/products/au...atex_PermaPoxy_4_Minute_Multi-Metal_Epoxy.htm

I have several brands on many applications, and almost always got great results. The plane jane JB weld should be fine.

 

[Ecomike]

Be sure and clean it real good with a wire brush, and some fast dry solvent, like brake cleaner (The one with jut Perchlorethylene in it, if you can get it) FIRST!

 

[Motorcharge]

The KWIK is what I got from work, but it's looking like I need to return it for the original jb weld

 

[Ecomike]

The KWIK is what I got from work, but it's looking like I need to return it for the original jb weld

Why?

 

[Motorcharge]

Why?

How does it work?

J-B KWIK is packaged in two tubes. One contains liquid steel/epoxy resin, and the other contains hardener. When mixed together in equal portions, a chemical reaction occurs that turns the mixture into a compound as hard and tough as steel -- and with similar properties.
Because J-B KWIK cures so fast, it's not as strong or as heat-resistant as the original J-B WELD. For typical household maintenance and repairs, however, it's just about perfect. Many happy customers have told us they were finally able to repair annoying things around their homes when, for years, nothing else worked. We think you'll find J-B KWIK as magical and practical in your home, too.

Properties (psi) Tensile Strength: 2100 Adhesion: 1800 Flex Strength: 7320 Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 Shrinkage: 0.0% Resistant to: 300° F


as opposed to

Properties (psi) Tensile Strength: 3960 Adhesion: 1800 Flex Strength: 7320 Tensile Lap Shear: 1040 Shrinkage: 0.0% Resistant to: 500° F

 

[Ecomike]

Interesting, JB-KWIK is what I have used most the last few years, simply by accident or default I guess, and I have had very good luck with it, but in your case, I agree, go with the JB weld.

I recall now, that the JB weld is less viscous at first, thinner at first, and easier to apply in a thinner layer, than KWIK. The last few times I wanted 1/2" + thick layers, so I used KWIK because it does not run.

Good catch!

 

[Motorcharge]

Got it in tonight about 5:30.

Anyone used this enough to know if I'll be good to put the tstat housing back on and run it tomorrow around 12-1 PM? I don't plan on driving it around for a couple days just to let it really set up, but I'd like to at least drive it tomorrow from behind the shop into a bay inside. I got some 32's off craigslist yesterday and I'd like to get them on and the fenders trimmed tomorrow if I can. I've got steel coming for bumpers Monday and I don't want to try and cram getting that in on top of starting fabrication next Sat.

 

[blubullett]

I don't think it will kill it by driving it from outside the shop to inside without water in it. It isn't running it that is going to stress the stud, it is tightening the thermostat housing. I would wait to put it on untill you have reached the full cure time recomended by JB Weld.

 

[Motorcharge]

I don't think it will kill it by driving it from outside the shop to inside without water in it. It isn't running it that is going to stress the stud, it is tightening the thermostat housing. I would wait to put it on untill you have reached the full cure time recomended by JB Weld.

I was more worried about it getting coolant in it than tightening the housing.

Directions say 15 hours in warm weather, 24 for a best results. I've just never used it and didn't know how big a difference there was in 15 and 24 hours in warm weather.

 

[Ecomike]

I would not run it with out coolant, and you sure do not want the water pump running with out coolant, it will ruin the shaft seal!

 

[Motorcharge]

I'm not running it without coolant, just trying to find out if I can go ahead and put everything back together after 18 or so hours and drive it into the shop. I can leave it there til Monday after I get it in the shop.

 

[N8N_99xj]

don't tighten the nuts down completely and leave the rad cap off? should be fine if you are just running for a couple minutes, then torque to spec later.

 

[Ecomike]

don't tighten the nuts down completely and leave the rad cap off? should be fine if you are just running for a couple minutes, then torque to spec later.

That sounds like a good plan, X2!

 

[Motorcharge]

Stud pulled out before it got anywhere close to tight. I'm just going to end up replacing the head or replacing the motor with a used one at this point.

I'd have to pull it to do anything more than jb weld a stud in anyway and I'm going through the trouble of pulling it I'm going to replace it.

One of the guys at work was a Jeep mechanic before he came to our dealership and offered to give me a hand doing either so it's not a huge deal. Just money I'd rather spend elsewhere.

 

[87manche]

pop a junkyard head, pay a machine shop 60 bucks to check it out and go through it, slap it on.

cheapest option. I've ran them straight from the junkyard, but if you want to make sur eyou're not doing it twice, have it checked at the machine shop.

 

[Motorcharge]

pop a junkyard head, pay a machine shop 60 bucks to check it out and go through it, slap it on.

cheapest option. I've ran them straight from the junkyard, but if you want to make sur eyou're not doing it twice, have it checked at the machine shop.

The one here is closed Sundays, but I'm giving them a call tomorrow. What have you paid for em from JYs?

I also get a pretty significant discount from Advance Auto, it may end up being comparable to being a used and having it checked to get a new one.

 

[kastein]

around here I can get a whole 4.0 from the yard for 99 if I pull it myself, so I'd bet 50 bucks or less for a head.

 

[Motorcharge]

Completely forgot to update this. Ended up buying a remanned Spartan head from Advanced. Was pretty nervous about doing it myself, but it went pretty smooth/quick. Took me 4 hours to remove, 4 hours to put the new in. I could probably do it in half that now. Only hard part was lifting the head and headers off as one piece and putting them back. Dunno how anyone could do it by themselves without a lift.