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Check my logic - 3-Link and HP 44 Bracket locations (kinda long)...

I got a little more work done today....

Yesterday I swung by performance tire and picked up 2 used mock up tires. They are 35x12.50 17 procomp all terrains. I figure I'll keep one for a spare when I by real tires and save a big chunk of $$$.

Here they are set up against the jeep. When it is all done, the Jeep will sit about 2-2.5" taller than the photo (1" difference in tire + 1-1.5" extra lift). they are in the approximate front to back position (1.5" stretch in the back and 1" stretch in the front):
MockUpTires.jpg


And just to do one last easy task, I installed the Aussie into the carrier minus one spring :mad: that shot off like a bullet and is lost forever. But, Aussie already responded to my e-mail last night and is going to mail me a new spring. I was surprised to hear from them soooo fast. That makes me feel good about any support I might ever need.
D44AussieLocker.jpg



I welded in the Coil mounts and lower control arm mounts...
CoilBracket02.jpg

CoilBracket03.jpg



The steering looks like it is going to clear perfect whether I use the high steer arms or do over the knuckle steering:
CoilBracketTREClearance04.jpg

CoilBracketTREClearance05.jpg




:new:Now, here's a question. How much clearance do you think I need between the TRE and the tire???? With the large backspacing of the H2 wheels I have about 1/2" clear between the TRE and the tire. Is this enough:dunno:???

When the tire is aired down, how much will it move side to side? I'm not married to using the high steer arms (I got them with the axle housing), so if it looks to be an issue, I'll just sell them and do an OTK steering set up which will clear everything fine.
MockUpTireTREClearance02.jpg

MockUpTireTREClearance03.jpg


What do you guy think??? Do I need to ditch the high steer or do I have enough clearance??????
 
I think clearance is fine. However, if the high steer arms place the tie rod end further out than is stock on the stock axle and you use a stock XJ pitman arm you may lose some turning radius. Jeff
 
You've probably already thought this all out but.......just in case.

If you use those outer holes on the high steer arms, where are you gonna run the drag link too? I had to use the inner holes on my BTF arms as the left side, only has an inner hole. But that leaves the right side outer hole available for the draglink.

An inverted T tie rod might work well for you!

Only other thing you might look at is how far forward is your steering ending up in relation to your pitman arm. You wouldn't want to have the steering end up under the pitman arm, if you know what I mean.

I like the wheels!
 
Jeff:

I've been thinking about that. I will most likely use a full size waggy pitman arm. It should fix the steering radius issue, an I can get one tapered for the 1-ton TREs so I don't need to buy an expensive reamer. Although, loosing a little radius would mean that I wouldn't ever put the axle u-joints in a bind at full lock.


Phil:
The outside face of the hub sits about 1/8" out past the face of the rim. I wish someone made stub hubs for the 44 like they do for the 60! Maybe one day someone will. I thought about just running drive flanges, but with the front aussie I want to have the locking hubs. I have a few spares to carry for if I ever kill one. I guess that's the price you pay for keeping the wheels tucked back in.

Terry:
I do plan on an inverted t set up. The wheels are a little weird to me still. don't get me wrong, I like them, but they're almost too nice to put on this Jeep. Shiny looks funny to me in the picture. I've had black steelies on the past 2 XJs. I may have to actually fix the paint on the fender and panel to look nicer.


No new progress, but I just ordered the Ruff Stuff frame stiffeners today! They should make a nice base for the 3 link mounts. I was going to get the TNTs, but they didn't answer the phone today, then I came across the new ones form RS. A little more pricey, but I like the design of theirs. They are coming out with braces for the front where these stop soon, too. Talked to the guy (Dan I think) for a while and he was really patient answering a million questions I had about them.
 
Progress has been slow over the holidays....

I have the cross-member built, bought tires (35" KM2s) for a Christmas present to myself, and I did finally get to finish the gears in the front axle yesterday, so both axles are done and now I'm pretty much waiting for some good weather to put on the stiffeners then build the links (my garage is too small to fit the jeep in and have room to work, so I have to do the stiffeners and axle placement outside.

All of the links and steel are just sitting there collecting dust until I get the time / weather to finish.
 
Made a bit of progress this weekend.... I decided that with some rearanging and purging I could make room to get the Jeep in the garage and get some work done. It's cramped to say the least, but I think I have enough room to work. I miss having a 2 car garage!

I finished assembling the outers on the 44 and bent brake lines for the 60. They are finally done and made off the jack stands. and now I can make room to pull the Jeep in the garage.
IMG_1621.jpg


I pulled the Jeep in an put the Dana 60 on. Turned out that with the 1.5" stretch, my rear brake line is about 1" short at full droop. I've ordered a new one, but for now I have the old line on. It looks a little funny, but here it is with the 35s on the rear + an extra inch of lift, and the RE 4.5" lift and 33s on the front.
IMG_1626.jpg


I used the TNT Ubolt eliminators on the axle to get an extra inch of lift and stretch the wheelbase a little. Here is where the wheel sits now. I am either going to cut the rear quarters, or section the inner wheel well and stretch the rear of the opening back to match, or probably a combination of both.
This is the RE 4.5" leaf with the 1" UBE stretched back 1.5":
IMG_1629.jpg



They don't really stick out all that far with the H2 rims.
IMG_1628.jpg


I drove it around a little bit to make sure everything seemed happy with the axle, and the 35s with 5.13s drives pretty nice. The rear discs are nice! It feels like my old drums must have been out of adjustment and weren't doing much for stopping. The jeep stops level now. Not as much nose dive as before.




I started the work on the front. The axle is out and old suspension is off, and I am starting to prep the body for the stiffeners. Then on goes the 3 link.

I cut off the lower CA mounts (gotta love a plasma cutter!) and still need to clean them up a bit. I am putting on the Ruff Stuff Specialties stiffeners that wrap up the "frame" where the CA mount is/was.

Before:
IMG_1636.jpg

After:
IMG_1653.jpg

Other side:
IMG_1651.jpg


That's all for now. Hopefully next weekend will be productive!
 
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Well... It's been a lot of weekends with a little progress here and a little there, but this last wekend it finaly sat on its own weight!!!!

Actually off the jack stand: (this is the spacious side of my garage :doh:)
IMG_1664.jpg


3 link:
IMG_1667.jpg


Steering geometry: (a little off of what I would have liked, but not bad)
IMG_1675.jpg



It is still not pulling out of the garage quite yet, but it's close. I hope to finish up the hydro assist this weekend and if my brake lines make it in time, get this thing out of the garage for the first time in a long time.
 
looking quite nice.
 
looking nice
 
Is it just the angle, or are the coil bucket's out a little too far?

Love the look of those wheels though on there.
nope, not the angle, they are a little wide i think






hay, thats # 2000 on the post count
 
looking great! wheels look awesome:)
 
Steering geometry: (a little off of what I would have liked, but not bad)
IMG_1675.jpg

any chance a drop pitman arm would help get things closer to parallel?
not sure if its the best idea after all this fab work, but it may help.
 
Good eye. The coil mounts area out about 1 1/2" - 2" further out because of the size of the pumpkin. There really wasn't anything I could do about that.

As far as the steering, if I had used the stock XJ pitman arm, I think it would have been almost perfect. I'm using a Waggy arm since it is a little longer to hopefully match the high steer arm length better than the shorter stock one would, but it is pretty flat causing the angles to be a little off.

I'm going to keep my eye out for a Waggy arm with more of a drop.

I finished up the hydro assist today. Unfortunately, my front drive shaft and brake lines didn't show up in time for the weekend so it won't be out of the grage until next weekend.
 
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