I know everyone and his brother is using silicone to seal diff covers these days but my success has been spotty. I'm going to change my gear lube front and back this weekend and plan on doing it the old fashioned way with cardboard gaskets. As far as I remember I shouldn't need any cement other than perhaps to tack the gasket to the cover for ease of reassembly. Just torque it to 30 lbs. and I'm done,... correct? Thanks in advance.
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Cardboard Gaskets
- Thread starter yardape
- Start date
RTicUL8
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Rocky Mountain High... Colorado!
I just used RTV on my 2000. That's what the FSM calls for.
I tried to buy gaskets, but neither Mopar or Napa sell them.
I tried to buy gaskets, but neither Mopar or Napa sell them.
gregmondro
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- West
I've also been using RTV front and back and have no problems.
Idiot Wind
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Littleton, Colorado
and I just used the gasket, no gasket maker, cement, nothing.
As far as using a gasket, I went through this a couple weeks ago and there didn't seem to be a clear winner on this issue (putting it on dry, cement, gasket maker etc..). I just used what was simple (nothing) and it has done fine so far. I am going on week 4.
As far as using a gasket, I went through this a couple weeks ago and there didn't seem to be a clear winner on this issue (putting it on dry, cement, gasket maker etc..). I just used what was simple (nothing) and it has done fine so far. I am going on week 4.
- Location
- Torrance, CA
Not to sound like an ass but if you're having trouble with RTV you're doing it wrong. I've used only RTV on my differentials for years and never had a problem. Even when I hit rocks with them, drag the lip over rocks (pry at it), and let it sit for a long time. Personally I prefer RTV as it is quite forgiving when you deform the cover.
Now what I do is I will lay about a 1/8" bead around the cover. I will branch the bead out around BOTH SIDES of each bolt hole (this is important, like this ---<>---) and then will tighten it down, I apply the RTV to the cover not the case, mainly because it's easier to work with. Once I've applied it I'll put hte cover on, being careful to line it up right before smooshing it into place then I will run the bolts in finger tight. I then let it sit for five minutes before I tighten the bolts up in a criss-cross manner. I do not use a torque wrench, I just tighten the bolts up with a 10" ratchet (not as tight as I can go, just pretty tight). You must circle around the diff cover about three times, or until you can pass every bolt and have it just as tight as the one next to it.
Now. If you're dead set on using gaskets I believe FRAM makes them, although it's been about eight years since I bought one (back when I used to use them), I was able to get them from your standard parts stores.
Sequoia
Now what I do is I will lay about a 1/8" bead around the cover. I will branch the bead out around BOTH SIDES of each bolt hole (this is important, like this ---<>---) and then will tighten it down, I apply the RTV to the cover not the case, mainly because it's easier to work with. Once I've applied it I'll put hte cover on, being careful to line it up right before smooshing it into place then I will run the bolts in finger tight. I then let it sit for five minutes before I tighten the bolts up in a criss-cross manner. I do not use a torque wrench, I just tighten the bolts up with a 10" ratchet (not as tight as I can go, just pretty tight). You must circle around the diff cover about three times, or until you can pass every bolt and have it just as tight as the one next to it.
Now. If you're dead set on using gaskets I believe FRAM makes them, although it's been about eight years since I bought one (back when I used to use them), I was able to get them from your standard parts stores.
Sequoia
5-90
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Hammerspace
Fel-Pro makes gaskets for most covers, and they should be available at most well-stocked locals (unless you've got something huge, like a D80 or a Rockwell...)
I typically use a gasket and a thin layer of RTV Black on both sides. I don't recall the torque for the cover screws offhand, but it's on my site if you check.
One thing I've found handy - I'll install a short stud in the very top hole to replace the screw. Not only does it allow you to "hang" things and free up your hands while you get it all in place, but it also allows you to pry loose the cover to drain the axle - without the cover falling in the drain pan and splashing gear oil all over you. Use 5/16"-18 x 1" or so for most light-duty Dana axles (D30, D35, D44, and I think D60.)
I typically use a gasket and a thin layer of RTV Black on both sides. I don't recall the torque for the cover screws offhand, but it's on my site if you check.
One thing I've found handy - I'll install a short stud in the very top hole to replace the screw. Not only does it allow you to "hang" things and free up your hands while you get it all in place, but it also allows you to pry loose the cover to drain the axle - without the cover falling in the drain pan and splashing gear oil all over you. Use 5/16"-18 x 1" or so for most light-duty Dana axles (D30, D35, D44, and I think D60.)
planefixer
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Colorado Springs, CO
High-temp RTV for me.No leaks to date.
Thanks for all of the replies. Yes I am obviously doing the silicone wrong but am tired of trying to learn when I have found cardboard gaskets foolproof. I picked up the gaskets at NAPA and it sounds like just about any method I use will work. Thanks again.