• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Bushings/heims/johnny joints

Twisted Copper

NAXJA Member #962
I've decided to go long arm.

Since I have had to replace the stupid heim joint in my RE 1600 trackbar twice in less than 2 years, I also decided I do not want heims or johnny joints. This is my daily driver and I want rubber bushings. I'd settle for poly, but I want regular old bushings.

That said, I fould only one kit that uses the rubber... Rusty's. Anybody help by pointing me towards option B? I've looked at several kits TNT, Clayton, RK, Skyjacker... all have the fance super articulate joints that are high maintinance.

Anybody know if any LA company will sell one with standard bushings or am I limited to Rustys???
 
jonny joints arent high maitnece at all, they use rubber bushings in the joint, instead of poly

if you go w/ a rubber joint at the frame end youll rip mounts off or twist stuff

rustys long arms are crap (well most of theyre stuff is)
 
tealcherokee said:
jonny joints arent high maitnece at all, they use rubber bushings in the joint, instead of poly

if you go w/ a rubber joint at the frame end youll rip mounts off or twist stuff

rustys long arms are crap (well most of theyre stuff is)

Another Village IDIOT.
Running rubber bushings has NO effect on the control arm mounts; frame or otherwise.
The only down side to factory type bushings is they wear out quickly. The up side is you can fiind them for as little as $4.00 apiece.
As to other lift kit options that offer them, I ran across this page a few months ago. Never heard of his stuff, but he does use factory bushings.
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/

D
 
I would almost bet that if you called and asked anyone of the manufacturers you have listed, they would build the arms with rubber bushings for you. I ve had my RE flex joints on my long arms for about three years now with no problems. I shoot a little grease in them everytime I change my oil.
 
Last edited:
DaffyXJ said:
Another Village IDIOT.
Running rubber bushings has NO effect on the control arm mounts; frame or otherwise.
The only down side to factory type bushings is they wear out quickly. The up side is you can fiind them for as little as $4.00 apiece.
As to other lift kit options that offer them, I ran across this page a few months ago. Never heard of his stuff, but he does use factory bushings.
http://www.kevinsoffroad.com/

D

riiiight.....call claytons, and ask them, theyre going to laugh and say what i just said

why do you think every GOOD long arm company uses a jonny joint at the frame end (or rustys uses ACME threads on theyre adjusters so that twists)?

it must be because theyre all idiots....that makes sense

but thats ok, you order long arms with bushings on both ends for your mall crawler, itll be fine for curb flexing
 
tealcherokee said:
riiiight.....call claytons, and ask them, theyre going to laugh and say what i just said

why do you think every GOOD long arm company uses a jonny joint at the frame end (or rustys uses ACME threads on theyre adjusters so that twists)?

it must be because theyre all idiots....that makes sense

but thats ok, you order long arms with bushings on both ends for your mall crawler, itll be fine for curb flexing

most of the reason is because johnny joints allow for more flex rubber bushings resist flex and break and wear quickly because they can get overworked in certian situations. like in claytons radius arms. bending the frame or axle mounts is all because the mounts are just not strong enough.
depending on the suspension type you choose johnny joints or ruber bushings will work great. i'm not sure what heims you were using but many people run them without incedent and they last just as long as other types of joints but most are non-rebuildable. unless you going to use a full 4 link i would not use rubber because it will wear quickly. go with johnny joints or similar are rebuildable and have a grease fitting they will work nicely.
 
tealcherokee said:
riiiight.....call claytons, and ask them, theyre going to laugh and say what i just said

why do you think every GOOD long arm company uses a jonny joint at the frame end (or rustys uses ACME threads on theyre adjusters so that twists)?

it must be because theyre all idiots....that makes sense

but thats ok, you order long arms with bushings on both ends for your mall crawler, itll be fine for curb flexing

Curb Flexing like this?

IMG_1690.jpg
2 years ago
IMG_1428a.jpg

Crozet Va. Dec 05
bodyshop01.jpg

Crozet Va. Jan 06

My point is, if you haven't done it, don't say it's no good :lecture: ....... Village Wisdom is Johnny, repeating Sally, repeating Billy.

The only issue with factory style bushing is their short life.
 
Jeffro600 said:
First of all, whats causing you to replace the joint in your trackbar? Is it breaking or just wearing out?
It just doesn't last long. Wears out (begins to pop) after a few months.


As for the mall crawler comment, it's my DD, but that doesn't mean I don't play hard. Heaven forbid someone come on here and ask a question, letting on that they don't know everything (like blowhards like you think about yourselves). I'm no rookie, and my XJ is no mallcrawler. Folks like you that think if you don't compete in NEUROC or something then your a mallcrawling novice... really get under my skin.

Back to the topic, I assumed that heim joints just were a bad design for on road driving, and that they won't last long. The assumption based on me going through them so quickly and the comment of the last place I bought one "I sell a lot of these... they just don't hold up on the street".

If johnny joints will have better longevity then I'll give them a shot - it would sure open up alot more options as to which LA setup to go with. I was hoping to find a 4 link with a standard style bushing. I figured with a 4 link the joints wouldn't get wrenched quite as badly. I dunno... guess I have some more homework to do.

Anybody else want to vouch for johnny joints lasting on a DD??? Don't most of these kits use a combination of Johnny and heim joints?

I'm really starting to hate coil springs.
 
I really like johnny joints. Inexpensive compared to heims, rebuildable and reliable.
000_0045.jpg

000_0044.jpg

These are the ones I use. I get them locally, you can't order them from curries website. These ones have an 1 1/4 thread, forged body and a built in grease fitting instead of using the greasable bolt. On my big truck I built a set of traction bars 3 years ago and I'm on the same bushings with no slop in them (The only off-roading it does is going to the dunes). With the inserts shown, you can use 2" .250 wall dom. The only thing I don't like is needing a press or a big vice to rebuild them. Thats where rubicon express joints have them beat.
 
this guy I work with has the same problem with RE heim joint on the trac bar
and he drives a mall crawler its only been off road tree times in tree years
but he changed the trac bar to one more like the one I have hasnt had a problem since
I have rustys over knuckle steering
if you look at the axle mount bushing is the same at the frame so there's
no binding at full flex

all my control arms have hiems and I havent had a problem with on in three years
 
Okay so I was inaccurately thinking heims and johnny joints would both give me the same results I've had with my RE trackbar. I feel better about Johnny joints and now I have some options...

Thanks folks!
 
I would get the Rubicon Express joints over the Currie joints. I have had both and think the RE joints are of better quality and design. When the Currie joints get slopy you have to rebuild them with new inner bushings and need a press or big vice to install them. The RE joints have a screw adjuster that allows you to tighten down the bushings inside when it starts to get sloppy plus you dont need a press or vice. I have had the same RE joints on my front long arms for 4 years now with out any issues and only had to tighten them once.

AARON
 
tealcherokee said:
rustys long arms are crap (well most of theyre stuff is)


What do you base this on? Do you actually run anything of his? I for one am tired of people bashing rustys stuff and its kind of starting to piss me off. Half of the people have never even ran anything of his. His customer service is first rate anyway even if you did have an issue which i for one have never. And i run a LOT of his stuff. I give him an A-.
 
I run rustys over the knuckle steering
and I wil buy from rustys again

I will say this rustys costomer service is very good
I dont know about his lifts exept that a guy in the club out here runs his lift
and hasnt had a problem
 
easy there killer...... i do run rustys stuff, theyre control arms are crap....absolutle crap

i run rustys springs, front and rear for now...they work, ive broken rustys track bar, short lowers, and theyre kits are very incomplete
 
I'm running the Currie JJ's in my current longarm setup.

lafinal%20023.jpg


Great quality and really smooth action, although in that pic it's nearly maxed out as far as misalignment. I was sort of disappointed about that, but I still have to check and see if it's really neutral at static ride height. Not saying that it's any slouch in the flex department though.

You can really see how the twisting action works in this pic.
lafinal%20022.jpg


I'd buy them again, great service from the company and a high quality product.
 
Back
Top