suprbst
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Yuba City, CA
So I got my electrical work wrapped up (for now) on my 2000 XJ and I've been driving it and towing my trailer and hauling different bikes on the Joe Hauler hitch-mount ramp/carrier. The rear sags more than I'd like during towing, and way more than I'd like when using the Joe Hauler to carry a 300-400 lb bike. The tired shocks are still the stock original shocks (I believe) and they've been on for over 138K miles. I wanted to firm up the rear (back to the original rake of the vehicle) and I figured I'd put that Rubicon Express 2" budget lift on, which includes the front spacers, rear add-a-leaf(s), some hardware, and a full set of shocks. Since the original rear leaf packs are sagging, and the measurement is the same from the rear rocker to the ground as it is at the front, I'm thinking that just adding the add-a-leaf to the rear packs is not going to bring the rear up enough and might start to sag again when the new leaf settles in. What do you think of swapping out the stock rear leaves for some OME 2" HD leaf packs which will need bushings, plus shipping, or the ProComp ones I can get with bushings @ 4 Wheel Parts down in Sacto? Do either of these leaf packs use polyurethane pads between the leaves to keep them quiet, or is that even important? Any other recommendations for 2" rear leaves that will work well with the fact that I often tow a relatively light-duty utility trailer (single axle, GVWR ~2 tons) and sometimes use the Joe Hauler, putting 300-400+ pounds on the rear?
My goal is to improve the ride control (new shocks) get the rear back in shape (leaves or add-a-leaf) and get the bonus of a slight lift that won't require other expense to change rear-axle angles or transfer case dropping (yet). This should get it back on track & save me some money until I can save for the real lift later.
Thanks for the input!
My goal is to improve the ride control (new shocks) get the rear back in shape (leaves or add-a-leaf) and get the bonus of a slight lift that won't require other expense to change rear-axle angles or transfer case dropping (yet). This should get it back on track & save me some money until I can save for the real lift later.
Thanks for the input!