Boxed (Sleeved) Frame Progress

[THE_OWL]

I finally finished one side of the frame boxing.
It runs from the bumper mount to the Crossmember. Going to do some extra boxing between the trans crossmember and the rear 4-link crossmember If I get it done this weekend.
Some of the welds are just tacked, and a lot of grinding still needs to be done. A few spots look like ass, because we had to "fill". Im in the running for the heaviest XJ of the year award.

 

[OT]

Holy crapweld. Turn your heat up and your wire speed down. Other than that, it looks great.

 

[xj92]

No plug welds?

 

[TNScrambler]

No plug welds?

thats what I was wondering?

Justin

 

[vintagespeed]

A few thousand hours of grinding & it'll look great....

-jb

 

[XJJPR]

All the above!


Is that suppose to be stronger than what was there?


hinkley

 

[XJ_ranger]

i think it looks great, kinda thin metal though...

i was wondering about doin this myself and thinking about the breaklines and stuff runningdown the drivers inside lip, what did you do with thoes?

looks neat

 

[XJ_ranger]

oh yeah...

your leaf spring in teh bottom picture doesnt look to healthy.... like an "S" shape almost... maybe i dont know what im talking about

 

[THE_OWL]

Leaf springs are all but gone,
Yes it is stronger, its twice as thick as the stock unibody.
No plug welds, thats a waste, I will run bolts through corresponding to the strips of 3/16" on the inner frame rails.
Brake lines arent run yet
And finally, like I said, its still rough and required filling between the plates that were curved and guesstimated wrong. It will be grinded down and look great, just like any other welds done to a thin unibody.
What no one is gonna start in on the loss of ground clearance?

 

[Jes]

What no one is gonna start in on the loss of ground clearance?

That would be too easy.

 

[OT]

A good weld doesn't need to be ground down, but to each thier own. If I had welds that were as good as those, I would definitely grind them down BEFORE I posted them here. We criticize because we care.

By the way, don't blame these welds on the unibody.

 

[THE_OWL]

Rear Leaves are just there for placement.
This is my rear suspension as of today.
2" .250 wall for lowers, with 1-1/4" heims 1.75" .250 for uppers with 7/8" Heims, SAW 12"coilovers

Rear crossmember rough draft, yes its low but not as low as the trans crossmember.

Crossmember almost done, needs two more supports, tabs and gusseting

 

[THE_OWL]

A good weld doesn't need to be ground down, but to each thier own. If I had welds that were as good as those

In case youre hard of reading Ill post once more in CAPS
THOSE ARE FILLS, THERE IS A 1/4" GAP BETWEEN THE TWO PLATES.
If you know a better way to fill with a millermatic 210 please tell.
You can see where there isnt any filling because the welds are nice.

 

[OT]

The only nice weld I see is on the crossmember flange.

If you cant fill in a .25" gap better than that, maybe you should try your hand at JB welding.

edit: okay, I'll leave it alone.

 

[THE_OWL]

Or maybe I should use wood screws to hold my fenders together.
Maybe you havent used a welder before on thin stamped metal before, but if you leave it hot enough to puddle in the gap, it blows a hole in the unibody, thats why they were done in blotches, small one first then a larger one on top. It was done with the intention of bieng grinded.

 

[OT]

Or maybe I should use wood screws to hold my fenders together.
Maybe you havent used a welder before on thin stamped metal before, but if you leave it hot enough to puddle in the gap, it blows a hole in the unibody, thats why they were done in blotches, small one first then a larger one on top. It was done with the intention of bieng grinded.

Good one. But that is rubber molding to keep mud out. Try again.

 

[THE_OWL]

with wood screws

 

[OT]

Well, the guy at the lumber yard said they would work :conceited . Like I said try again.

 

[THE_OWL]

Well, the guy at the lumber yard said they would work

Ill let that one speak for itself.
And with that Ill move on.
NEXT

 

[Jes]

Those look like sheet metal screws to me.